Would going from a 53/39 to a 52/38 make much of a difference? It’s not as $$$$ as compared to buying a new compact crank set. Can I keep the existing front derailleur, campy?
What are you trying to acomplish? What do you have for a rear cassette? A ratio chart can be made with the front and rear numbers to determine what kind of change there would be.
Mike
Here you go plug your numbers into this chart, you may be better off just changing the rear cassette
I currently have a 11-23 that came with the bike and a 12-25. I’m moving up from a sprints/oly to my 1st 70.3, Timberman. There are two hills, hills at the biggining and end, during the sprint i,m in 39, 18-21 going up the hill. For the Half I plan to take it easier so my thought is the 38 instead of the 39. With the limited knowledge of gears I believe 38/53 is too big of difference, I may be wrong.
I’ve recently switched from a 52/38 to a 53/39 and didn’t notice a difference. My guess is you won’t feel it too.
I would say you’re not going to notice that big a difference. If you were going from a 53/39 to a 50/34 compact, it would be like night and day. A 53/39 to a 52/38 is nothing really.
My personal opinion (which is not worth much) would be to maybe switch to a 12-27 rear instead of changing the front. You can see on the chart I posted a link to that you are going to get more of a change with this than changing the front. I hope this helps.
Mike
???! How was that? Have you increased your rpm? If not its impossible, I have made it in a different order 1st 52/38 and then 53/39 and that was an huge diference specially in flat course.
The difference between 53 and 52 is very, very, little and the feeling minimal. On the other hand, switching the rear gearing will make a big impact on your cadence.
Just out of curiosity, I know this World class ITU triathlete that rides 50/38 in training (to train with cadence) and races with 52/38.
Well, for me was a big change. And when I say that has a big diference, I am just using my empirical knowledge (isnt huge, but its some). But its difficult to have lets say 350 watts in a flat course with a 52, and the smallest ring on the back 12 or so. With normal wind conditions. Its like trying to climb stairs without the stairs. Its just what I think.
A scientific opinion would be whelpful, anyone?!
Dude… you need to buy a powermeter… 
:´| Damn, I have just ordered the last things to put my bike in the rule, aerobars + ITU = please dont kill the old lady Soo… out of money, probably If I start cutting on the food I will get thiner and my bank acount will allow me (in some years) to buy it.
Bythaway, nice race today, your cycling was good and you were alone, werent you? Its kind of boring do races with drafting allow, there is no big thing in it.
Hey, try this!
Thanks cool page, Drew
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I have a compact crank 50 /34 , its like a triple . You lose top speed ( I cant run long at 53 -12 on any incline) but you gain climbing gears 34-25 gets you up most any short steep grade. I seem to be running the center of the cassette in either 50 or 34 so it feels right. Depending if your arear is flat or not.
Some report needing a special front derailleur , to jump the 50 -34 shift ----- B.S. just keep the cage adjusted as close as possible to the big ring it works fine .
Find a combo that wont duplicate/ repeat gear ratios and in 10 speed get a cassette with one tooth changes ( 12-13-14-15-16-ect ).
Heli