I love my new BMC GF01 with Di2 Ultegra (electronic shifting). It has a compact and 11-28 gears.
I am tackling the Lake Tahoe Death Ride this year for the first time, and am worried about not having an easy enough first couple of gear ratios.
On my tri bike I am not ashamed to admit I have a 32 gear (SRAM) on the back and 50/34 compact on the front, and have often been very glad of that climbing gear on long, climby rides at altitude.
Does anyone know (or point me to an existing thread?) if I can use an 11-32 or a 12-32, or even a 30 on the back, with Di2 and a 50/34 on this bike?
You’ll need the GS cage rear derailleur as opposed to the SS, although I suspect that you may already have this if you’re currently running a 28t cassette ring.
You’ll also need to add a couple of links to your chain.
Other than those, there’s no reason that you can’t run a 32t cassette with your Di2 set up.
You’ll need the GS cage rear derailleur as opposed to the SS, although I suspect that you may already have this if you’re currently running a 28t cassette ring.
You’ll also need to add a couple of links to your chain.
Other than those, there’s no reason that you can’t run a 32t cassette with your Di2 set up.
When I was looking into this, yep, you need the GS, which I assume did not come with the bike.
I love my new BMC GF01 with Di2 Ultegra (electronic shifting). It has a compact and 11-28 gears.
I am tackling the Lake Tahoe Death Ride this year for the first time, and am worried about not having an easy enough first couple of gear ratios.
On my tri bike I am not ashamed to admit I have a 32 gear (SRAM) on the back and 50/34 compact on the front, and have often been very glad of that climbing gear on long, climby rides at altitude.
Does anyone know (or point me to an existing thread?) if I can use an 11-32 or a 12-32, or even a 30 on the back, with Di2 and a 50/34 on this bike?
Many thanks,
R
I now have 3 bikes with the 50/34 11/32 setup. Used in IMLT 2013, and will use again at IMLT 2015 70.3
As was stated, you need the GS RD which I was looking to have on a bike if I bought new.
Not correct- you do not need a long cage derailleur to make this work with a 32 cog.
You will need to do a couple things.
1.) Increase b-tension so that derailleur clears the 32.
2.) Ride and shift carefully. Don’t go big/big.
3.) You may or may not need a longer chain. If your chain was installed using the “Shimano method”- chain on big/big (not through the rear derailleur) plus 1 link- you might need a longer chain.
If chain was installed small/small (through the rear derailleur) with slight tension on rear derailleur- you should be fine.
I have used and 11-32 many times and it works great with the above caveats.
You’ll need the GS cage rear derailleur as opposed to the SS, although I suspect that you may already have this if you’re currently running a 28t cassette ring.
You’ll also need to add a couple of links to your chain.
Other than those, there’s no reason that you can’t run a 32t cassette with your Di2 set up.
When I was looking into this, yep, you need the GS, which I assume did not come with the bike.
Dave,
Many stores give you the option upon purchase now, thankfully. Hopefully since the OP was purchasing a tri bike and asked for compact and a 28t cassette, they would have advised to go with the GS.
I went for the GS, with 11sp cassettes I don’t see myself ever using a cassette that maxes out at 25t or less.
Not correct- you do not need a long cage derailleur to make this work with a 32 cog.
You will need to do a couple things.
1.) Increase b-tension so that derailleur clears the 32.
**2.) Ride and shift carefully. Don’t go big/big. **
3.) You may or may not need a longer chain. If your chain was installed using the “Shimano method”- chain on big/big (not through the rear derailleur) plus 1 link- you might need a longer chain.
If chain was installed small/small (through the rear derailleur) with slight tension on rear derailleur- you should be fine.
I have used and 11-32 many times and it works great with the above caveats.
I see this posted all the time and it’s the worst piece of advice that I see posted regularly. If you can’t use big-big and risk ripping off your rear derailleur off and throwing it into your spokes and frame if you accidentally do so, then IT DOES NOT WORK. It’s a completely unacceptable solution that will come back to bite you on the ass.
By all means give it a try, but don’t come posting on here crying when your lovely carbon frame has a smashed up chain/seat stay because you couldn’t be bothered to do a job properly.
Except the event that the OP mentioned features long mountain passes- so he(she) will be in the small ring. Not cross-chained on the big.
And it is not a race.
Except the event that the OP mentioned features long mountain passes- so he(she) will be in the small ring. Not cross-chained on the big.
And it is not a race.
My opinion is still like others, no way would I ride a bike with safety limitations because I was too cheap to buy the correct parts.
Is this not what folks gave the guy a bad time about when his P5 broke?
Except the event that the OP mentioned features long mountain passes- so he(she) will be in the small ring. Not cross-chained on the big.
And it is not a race.
My opinion is still like others, no way would I ride a bike with safety limitations because I was too cheap to buy the correct parts.
Is this not what folks gave the guy a bad time about when his P5 broke?
Who cares what ‘folks’ did in another thread…and I think the point in that thread was the complete opposite.
You should never ride big-big with any equipment setup. Just adds wear and tear. You should also be aware of what gears you’re in, no one is going so hard in a triathlon that they can’t pay attention to their equipment.
