Hello everyone,
I currently have a 2014 Cervelo R5, Di2 Dura Ace w/Rotor 3d+ crank 52 (36) 110 and Zipp Firecrest 404s. All parts came with the bike when I bought it.
I am interested in changing out my crank with the Dura Ace (FC-9000) crank. The LBS recommends the “upgrade” with the Dura Ace crank and pricing (parts/labor) seem doable for me.
Link to Shimano Dura Ace FC-9000: http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/road/drivetrain/cranksets/fc-9000.html
I do not notice anything “wrong” with my current crank, but would like to look into a change. But, I am not sure if it would be worth it in terms of performance (perceived or real). The LBS didnt mention any CONS with the “upgrade” and plenty of positive remarks (stiffness/shifting/quality etc). I know the LBS wants to make money (gotta stay in business) and I do trust them.
The other option is to look into the current Rotor 3d+ cranks and see if it would be worth it ($) to upgrade. I believe there is a newer version out than what I currently have:
http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/products/3D_plus_road_cranks.html
My bike is setup for Triathlons if that helps any. Also, I am on the large size with weight (210 pounds, 6’2"). I primarily do Olympic distances with a goal completing my first HIM later this month.
Basically wanted to get some thoughts from people here and try to make an informed decision. Pros or Cons you may have would be appreciated. If I missed anything, please ask. I am a bit limited with my knowledge on cranks so please excuse my lack of description with the cranks options, but the Dura Ace is the one I am primarily interested in, followed by the Rotor 3d+ (if the current model is “newer/better” than my current version). I tried to list what I thought would be helpful.
Ok so 2 thoughts. There’s nothing wrong with your crank. Only buy a new one because you think it looks pretty and you have the money to spend.
Which leads me to #2. If you have a lot of money to spend (and your current setup says that you do), then you will be much better off buying a new P2 and racing on that.
I’m not saying you should get rid of your fantastic road bike - just that you will be faster on a tri bike that costs much less than the one you are currently riding.
You bring up a great point or two. I will try to clarify my question or maybe I should be happy with what I currently have.
This is not based on looks or money to blow. Just that if it would warrant a potential upgrade from my current setup with the Rotor 3d+ crank from 2013 (bought the bike in late 2013 in order to get the 2014 Cervelo model). I am not sure if there would be any real or perceived benefit getting the Dura Ace FC-9000 or updated Rotor 3d+ cranks.
If there are benefits but they are only negligible then I wouldnt go down this road. Of course the opposite holds true too.
As for buying an actual Tri bike, that is something I am considering, but not in the near future. I tend to save the money needed to get the exact bike I want. This for me, takes time. Hence, I wouldnt be getting a Tri bike this year, unfortunately.
Like kj above said, there’s nothing wrong with your 3D+ crank.
I can’t quite understand where your LBS thinks the 9000 crank with a 24mm spindle will be stiffer than your 3d+ crank with a 30mm spindle…oh wait, they see a sales oportunity.
I’m not knocking the 9000 crank, I have one on my '15 R5, shifts fine, stiff enough for me (6ft, <150lbs), but I also have rotor cranks/rings on my other bikes. Shifting is just as good, when I ride blind folded I can’t tell which crankset I’m shifting…jk.
For your perusal, here are a couple of crank tests Fair Wheel Bike did.
This one from 2011. They used a 7900 crank and a rotor 3d (24mm spindle). https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/fair-wheel-crank-test-4/
Here’s a newer ('14) test where they used a 9000 crank but didn’t test a rotor. https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/reviews-and-testing/road-bike-crank-testing/
You have a super nice ride, I woudn’t mess with it.
Thank you for the links! I guess the mantra of, if it aint broke…dont fix it. I really wasnt sure if there would be any performance/quality gains with updating my current crank but seeing as even if there is, it would appear very little gained.
Again, thank you both for taking the time to help clearify my decision.
Tell your shop to stick it and find another shop. They are simply trying to cash in on your bike.