This may me a dumb question and I know that the current P2 frame is compatible with a 11-speed cassette, but can anyone confirm for me that my 2014 version (should I call this 1st generation of the new P2), which came with a 10-speed shimano-105 cassette would have the right clearance to fit an 11-speed system. I’m considering a change over to an ultegra di2 11-speed system, but want to make sure that my frame will fit this correctly first.
This may me a dumb question and I know that the current P2 frame is compatible with a 11-speed cassette, but can anyone confirm for me that my 2014 version (should I call this 1st generation of the new P2), which came with a 10-speed shimano-105 cassette would have the right clearance to fit an 11-speed system. I’m considering a change over to an ultegra di2 11-speed system, but want to make sure that my frame will fit this correctly first.
You’ll probably need a new rear wheel, or play games with a spacer to fit an 11 speed cassette.
But the frame is fine. It’ll fit 11s 105 just fine.
It’s still the same frame, same generation p2. It’s *Shimano *that changed, not Cervelo.
I have 11 speed campy record on my 2014 blue and white p2.
A 10-speed and 11 speed require the same frame clearance.
The frame will be fine for 11 speed. What you have to worry about is the freehub and if it is 10 speed or 11 speed. There are a couple of ways around this. You can buy an 11 speed cassette that will fit the 10 speed freehub. There is one that I know but their might be more options.
However, there is a fix for those with wheels that are not convertible to Shimano 11-speed freehubs but that offer Campagnolo freehubs (as you might imagine, Shimano is not one of those). You can install a Campagnolo freehub body on your wheel and get a Campagnolo 11-speed cogset. It will shift fine with a Shimano or SRAM 11-speed system.
Your rear wheel must have an 11 speed free hub.
Just keep the 10 spd
.
That bike was spec’d with shimano r500 wheels which are not 11 speed compatible. ( there is no shimano 11 speed freehub that fits them). Your only choices as others have said is a camoy freehub with a campy 11 speed cassette, ( expensive), or new wheels.
OR do this cassette.
Token 11-speed CNC Cromo cassette
Eleven-speed cassette that fits 10-speed freehubs
These come in 11/25 or 11/28 so I will be for sure buying several of these when I move up to 1 X 11 or 22 on my builds.
The Shimano wheels that come on a P-2 are some of the cheapest, heaviest, disposable wheels on the market. You can buy them on flea bay for $75. There is nothing really wrong with them, they are strong wheels, but they are thow-aways from a cost standpoint.
Thanks for all the feedback. I realize now that a rather important detail may have been left out that could solve my problem (or make it more complicated). When I purchased the bike in early 2014, the LBS said they could easily build in a Powertap G3 hub into the stock rear wheel. Well it turned out that it wasn’t quite possible (I don’t remember the exact reason why), but they ended up building the PT into a DT-swiss wheel so that is what I currently have set-up.
Now the Powertap should be compatible with 11-speed based on what their specs say. This is also assuming that the current specs on their website match the Powertap unit that I purchased in 2014. Based on that information it should be no problem to install the 11-speed di2 groupset onto the frame and DT-swiss with powertap g3 rear wheel.
Where it gets complicated, is if I were to decide to get the set of race wheels on my wish list down the road and still want to have power readout for races. I have been considering upgrading to the PT P1, which would solve the issue of having power with race wheels on training wheels. But in that case I would like to sell the G3 together with the rear wheel. And then I would just need to buy a new rear training wheel that has an 11-speed compatible free hub.
I think I’ve got this figured out now, but I’m sure you guys can point out something that I’m missing.
A cheap alternative to keep power on race wheels with the powertap hub is to buy a wheelcover, theyre around $70-100. Search for Wheelbuilders aerojacket. Catalyst also makes one. You basically fix a plastic sheet to your rear wheel and you end up with a disk wheel for races, and can take it off after. Takes maybe 5 mins. I think I read it has most of the same aerodynamic properties of a proper disk. This is the best option IMO unless you domraces where disk wheels are not allowed.