2008 Felt B2 headset/bayonet help

Triathlon Forum
1

I have a 2008 B2 and have been experiencing a chronically loose headset/topcrown/stem. What I’m experiencing is when I pull up on the areobars there is some give in the headset. I’ve taken my bike into a LBS who is a Felt dealer for them to look at and they were not very helpful. I guess b/c I didn’t buy the bike from them they didn’t want to be that helpful. So I disassembled it my self to figure out what’s going on. What I found out is that when I pull up on the areobars there is “give" where the stem and topcrown connect. I’ve tried to reposition/readjust and it continues to have the give.

I’m at a loss on this.

I’ve also had problems with my bayonet/headset group. I had problems with popping and cracking from the bayonet/frame area. So when I disassembled this (according to Felt’s website) I found that my headset adjuster cap and steer length compensator had a slight bend in it. With this bend I cannot adjust the steer length compensator or the lock nut within the headset adjuster cap. I’ve emailed Felt and SuperDave about this.

I training for IMFL and desperately need my bike and having it in the best working condition. I just bought the bike back in April and seems that I shouldn’t been having these problems so soon.

2

I am having some similar problems, but I wasn’t able to get my stem separated from the headset to take a look at things…How did you get the stem off…I can’t seem to get the stem separate from the headset

Thanks
.

3

I have a 2008 B2 and have been experiencing a chronically loose headset/topcrown/stem. What I’m experiencing is when I pull up on the areobars there is some give in the headset. I’ve taken my bike into a LBS who is a Felt dealer for them to look at and they were not very helpful. I guess b/c I didn’t buy the bike from them they didn’t want to be that helpful. So I disassembled it my self to figure out what’s going on. What I found out is that when I pull up on the areobars there is “give" where the stem and topcrown connect. I’ve tried to reposition/readjust and it continues to have the give.

I’m at a loss on this.

I’ve also had problems with my bayonet/headset group. I had problems with popping and cracking from the bayonet/frame area. So when I disassembled this (according to Felt’s website) I found that my headset adjuster cap and steer length compensator had a slight bend in it. With this bend I cannot adjust the steer length compensator or the lock nut within the headset adjuster cap. I’ve emailed Felt and SuperDave about this.

I training for IMFL and desperately need my bike and having it in the best working condition. I just bought the bike back in April and seems that I shouldn’t been having these problems so soon.

I’m sorry if I didn’t get your email, I seem to recall your message however, so perhaps my reply didn’t make it to your inbox.

At any rate, if your axis shaft is not straight, or the compression device or steerer length compensator the headset will not remain tight. The top crown needs to have a flat surface to mate against. If the two surfaces are not made parallel then slight movement and the creaking your describe is possible.

I’m not sure if the “give” you describe is in the stem extenion and the top crown, or the top crown and the fork. I trust you are familiar with our assembly video:

http://feltracing.com/08/display.asp?catid=1535&pageid=418

If there is movement between the top crown and the fork, the bolts that attach it may be loose.

I’d encourage you and your dealer to work through the assembly procedure, but if there is indeed a bent piece in the system, it needs to be replaced. I am concerned with any system that has been ridden loose, this condition is a result of incorrect assembly, and incorrect assembly can cause damage to the system if it is used for a long period of time.

Again, I’m sorry if I’ve been unresponsive, has your dealer been able to order the parts you need replaced?

-SD

4

I’ve had similiar problems, and found the following.

In order to keep the headset tight, you have to have the topcap flush to the fork, and back off the steer length compensator as far as possible. Follow the instructions exactly, ensuring you tighten down everything in the correct order. when I re-did this, I had good results and no problems since.

As for wobbly aero bars, your top cap has the bolt on the side that tightens the spline between the top cap and stem extension. You’ve probably tightened that all the way. In addition, you have the bolt that goes straight down into the steerer much like a traditional headset. Finally, and here’s the key, make sure you installed and tightened the final bolt that is parallel to the ground which goes into the spline and holds it tight. This bolt enters from the same hole as the previous one I described, except it’s parrallel to the ground instead of pointing at the ground.

5

I’ve had similiar problems, and found the following.

In order to keep the headset tight, you have to have the topcap flush to the fork, and back off the steer length compensator as far as possible. Follow the instructions exactly, ensuring you tighten down everything in the correct order. when I re-did this, I had good results and no problems since.

As for wobbly aero bars, your top cap has the bolt on the side that tightens the spline between the top cap and stem extension. You’ve probably tightened that all the way. In addition, you have the bolt that goes straight down into the steerer much like a traditional headset. Finally, and here’s the key, make sure you installed and tightened the final bolt that is parallel to the ground which goes into the spline and holds it tight. This bolt enters from the same hole as the previous one I described, except it’s parrallel to the ground instead of pointing at the ground.

This has been the outcome for all of the problematic forks I’ve been able to handle. Once installed correctly, exactly, there are no problems.

Thank you for your comments, perhaps they are easier to understand than my own ramblings.

Regards,
-SD

6

I’ve had similiar problems, and found the following.

In order to keep the headset tight, you have to have the topcap flush to the fork, and back off the steer length compensator as far as possible. Follow the instructions exactly, ensuring you tighten down everything in the correct order. when I re-did this, I had good results and no problems since.

As for wobbly aero bars, your top cap has the bolt on the side that tightens the spline between the top cap and stem extension. You’ve probably tightened that all the way. In addition, you have the bolt that goes straight down into the steerer much like a traditional headset. Finally, and here’s the key, make sure you installed and tightened the final bolt that is parallel to the ground which goes into the spline and holds it tight. This bolt enters from the same hole as the previous one I described, except it’s parrallel to the ground instead of pointing at the ground.

This has been the outcome for all of the problematic forks I’ve been able to handle. Once installed correctly, exactly, there are no problems.

Thank you for your comments, perhaps they are easier to understand than my own ramblings.

Regards,
-SD

7

I have an 07 DA, which I believe is the same bayonete fork setup. I had a loose headset that wouldn’t completely tighten. Took to the LBS to ensure I wasn’t crazy, and they confirmed I was not. Turns out there was a metal shim glued to the composite inside which helps tighten everything down. This had come loose. Sent back to felt, and back the the races the following week. Not sure if this is your problem and SD can probably help more than anyone, but that was my issue and fixed right away by felt. Mostly because i have a great LBS.