Ok
I’m considering going to 1x on Tri bike. Does any manufacturer make a bar end shifter that’s compatible with a Shimano clutched ultegra or MTB derailleur?
Thanks
Bryan
It’s my understanding that you don’t really need to swap out the rear derailleur. Just go with a narrow / wide chainring like WolfTooth’s 50T. Then you can leave the crank alone too. Costs about $100 to find out - let me know 'cause I may do it too.
Is there any reason shimano’s bar end shifters wouldn’t work with their clutched RD? Or do you want a return to center shifter? If that’s the case you’re out of luck.
But like the poster above said, I think a clutched RD is unnecessary. I used a full sram force 1 setup for 2 years on my tri bike and never had a dropped chain. I’m now 2 months into my new 1x mechanical set up with a standard red 22 RD but keeping with the NW chainring and still no dropped chains. Sure it might give a little peace of mind but for triathlon, you can skip it.
The pull ratio is different between Shimano road/mountain. I believe the bar end shifter is different than the current road stuff. But stumbled on this. Think this is what I want
This RX800 is definitely under the ‘road’ category for shimano though right? So any normal bar end shifter should be fine?
Would a shimano pull shifter in friction mode work?
The pull ratio is different between Shimano road/mountain. I believe the bar end shifter is different than the current road stuff. But stumbled on this. Think this is what I want
https://www.universalcycles.com/...QrVOaoRoCzCcQAvD_BwE
After playing around with the one on my MTB, I bought this shifter to pair with a Shimano road rear derailleur. RS700 Flat Bar Shifter. I plan to mount it so the shifter is between and behind my palms. I might mod the long lever a bit; not sure yet.
Pretty sure all the road 11 derailleurs are the same pull ratio.
I have exactly this setup (am I missing something?): 1x, Ultegra R8000 GS derailleur (you could use an RX800, so far I haven’t found it necessary) with standard shimano DA bar end shifters. It’s not even a hack, they’re made to match.
So, should I just go with a narrow wide ring? Love my 1x on my MTB. Figured I needed the clutch. So no issues with dropping of your chain with a standard derailleur?
Microshift also do a bar end that is Shimano compatible and by all accounts just as good (it’s not very hard to make a bar end shifter).
Definitely need the NW ring. I’ve dropped my chain once, and it probably was an issue that a clutch might have helped (high speed downhill, no/little load, hit a decent size pothole or something similar). Still didn’t feel desperate need to get a clutched RD though since this is pretty rare and due to my carelessness. If you have to buy a new RD, you might as well get an RX800, but it’s not essential. If you have a shimano road RD with large enough range, just get the shimano bar end shifters and NW chainring and should be good to go.
I can’t comment on the compatibility of bar-end shifters with a clutched derailleur but I do have 1x experience. I’m currently running 1x11 using a 11-42 mtb cassette on a flatbar/650b converted CX bikes using an Ultegra6800 med cage derailleur and a goat link with the previously mentioned thumb shifter. I started with the original 36t ring that came on the crankset and had numerous dropped chains just riding around town with the kids. Switched to a N/W ring and haven’t had single chain drop since. I had thought being on the road would negate the need for N/W but it didn’t.
clutched rear mech and narrow/wide chainring make a notable difference to stopping chaindrop (I’ve been using shimano ‘1x’ for about 3 yrs). I started just taking off the front mech, then went narrow/wide, then, to increase gear range, I went to an XT mech and cassette, but used the Wolf Tooth Tanpan pull adjuster. its not perfect, but its very good, and definitely reliable. The RX800 is good, but it only runs to a 34t sprocket, whereas the XT goes to 42.
clutched rear mech and narrow/wide chainring make a notable difference to stopping chaindrop (I’ve been using shimano ‘1x’ for about 3 yrs). I started just taking off the front mech, then went narrow/wide, then, to increase gear range, I went to an XT mech and cassette, but used the Wolf Tooth Tanpan pull adjuster. its not perfect, but its very good, and definitely reliable. The RX800 is good, but it only runs to a 34t sprocket, whereas the XT goes to 42.
The new GRX RD-RX812 rear derailleur works with an 11-42 cassette (1x setup, only), and can be controlled by legacy Shimano road 11-speed shifters (including the DA bar end shifter) without the need for a Tanpan.
https://bike.shimano.com/…-speed/RD-RX812.html
Yup, it’s the rx812 (rx810 is the 2x for 11-34)
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Yup, it’s the rx812 (rx810 is the 2x for 11-34)
Linked the right one, but put the wrong # in the text. Edited to correct.
I just made the switch to a 1x di2 system on the cheap (finally), but before that I was on a 1x mechanical with a 105 medium cage (12-30). I was and currently still now have a Wolftooth 50 narrow-wide. I also bought the Wolftooth chain catcher just for peace of mind. I never dropped the chain without the catcher and absolutely can’t with it. I actually manually pulled the chain off the front chainring and there isn’t enough room for the chain to be disengaged from the ring (width-wise), so the next pedal-stroke puts it back on anyways if it ever were to happen. I know there may be an aero penalty by having the catcher on but like I said, it gives me the extra peace of mind.
The clutch is nice for mud, but you are fine on the road without one
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If you already have the Shimano bar end shifters and a Shimano (road) rear derailleur, here’s a quick adjustment that will give you a little extra chain tension. There’s two chain tension settings on Shimano road rear derailleurs and they are set in the lower tension setting from the factory. https://youtu.be/97P7G94rE7M
A narrow wide ring is the most important part of the equation though. This is just a little extra security if you already have the derailleur. I don’t like how the new clutched derailleur feels on mechanical road shifters. Too much effort.
Microshift makes bar end shifters that will work with MTB rear derailleurs. They have Shimano and SRAM compatible versions.
I have the original Rival 1X that is supposed to max out with 36T cog. The beauty of that RD is it works with both 10 or 11 speed. I have shifters for both but not sure if I want to run a hanger extension like a wolf tooth in the event I want to run 11-40. The shifter is on ebay for $48USD plus $10 shipping ($ 99 CAD shipped including prepaid import fee of $8.xx).
You can also get bar end shifters if you wanted to try 1x12 using a shimano rear derailleur. The cassette choices are not there yet but I am sure Sunrace might come up with something.
On the gravel front they also make a 1x11 brifter as well. Not elegant since the shift cable goes a old school (external) and looks a bit 90s retro.