These figures will most likely change a bit depending on the bottom bracket.
I’m asking because I need a total stance width of around 244mm. This is based on the the Purely Custom adjustable cranks (approx. Q-factor of 136mm) and Favero Assioma (54mm per side).
I’m currently using the BBK 145mm (Q-factor 152mm) and Favero Assioma (54mm), which would have a total stance width of 260mm.
I’m thinking of getting the Jcob Short Cranks 145mm (Q-factor 145mm), and use pre-Wahoo Speedplay pedals (50mm) which would yield a total stance width of 245mm. The only thing for me to get power output would be to use a Spider-based PM. This option is quite sound but the cost is quite steep for me.
FSA makes the alloy Powerbox crank in a 145mm length and it has a 148mm Q factor. We have it in a very limited qty. so it is not listed as a size option on our website but it provides the details of the spider and gearing available.
I run the the old Campy Record track (square taper) cranks, but they only go down to 150. You can get the q-factor down to 128 or so with them. They are extremely hard to find.
If you want to look real crazy, you could try these
FSA makes the alloy Powerbox crank in a 145mm length and it has a 148mm Q factor. We have it in a very limited qty. so it is not listed as a size option on our website but it provides the details of the spider and gearing available.
Thanks for sharing this. I didn’t know that FSA makes 145mm cranksets with a powerbox PM. Unfortunately, it will be more costly for me to go this route as I’ll also need to change my BB to 386EVO.
Maybe you’ve already made a purchase, but I just came across this post as I was digging into a similar question about Q factor and very short cranks.
Mark at Bike Smith sells SRAM Apex cranks shortened to any length (min 137.5mm). This crank has 145mm Q factor. I have one cut to 150mm and I really like it. I believe it is considerably cheaper than a Cobb crank. Both are good options though!
Hi Rob! Thanks for your response. I currently use this as well, although I can only use a pedal or rear hub power meter. Not sure if there a chainring based power meter for 5-bolt 110 BCD?
Maybe you’ve already made a purchase, but I just came across this post as I was digging into a similar question about Q factor and very short cranks.
Mark at Bike Smith sells SRAM Apex cranks shortened to any length (min 137.5mm). This crank has 145mm Q factor. I have one cut to 150mm and I really like it. I believe it is considerably cheaper than a Cobb crank. Both are good options though!
On reflection I see my reply was not directly helpful to your problem
I use Garmin Vector 3 pedals and I don’t have experience searching for a 110 BCD crank meter, it doesn’t look easy to find if there’s one out there.
What about 4iii? My understanding is they take your existing crank arms and attach power meters, maybe that’s a way to make one of these these work.
I emailed Mark Stonich of BikeSmith Design & Fabrication in Minneapolis, MN.
Here’s an excerpt from our email thread.
*Cranks have to be shortened by at least 21.5mm, to leave enough metal between the new hole and the new end of the crank. The longest I can make 175s is 153.5mm. (180mm Apex were discontinued several years ago, ) *
I went with one 145mm and one 153.5mm cranks. So far, I feel that the 145mm is faster for the flats, while I can push a higher wattage at a lower HR zone with 153.5mm.
How are you getting the q down to 128? I have a set of record track cranks but the Q is listed at 131. They use a 111 BB so I guess I could go to a 107 but that would require so spacing of the chainring to get the chain line correct…
How are you getting the q down to 128? I have a set of record track cranks but the Q is listed at 131. They use a 111 BB so I guess I could go to a 107 but that would require so spacing of the chainring to get the chain line correct…
I use the narrower BB. The chainline comes out ok with a couple of BB spacers.
That just shifts everything to the drive side though right. So now you’re a little lopsided. I guess I could go 1mm behind the bb and 1mm behind the rings… chaiinline is a bit more critical for track
That just shifts everything to the drive side though right. So now you’re a little lopsided. I guess I could go 1mm behind the bb and 1mm behind the rings… chaiinline is a bit more critical for track
Well I have a leg length discrepancy anyhow so it all works out! Actually, I don’t notice the lopsideness at all.
That just shifts everything to the drive side though right. So now you’re a little lopsided. I guess I could go 1mm behind the bb and 1mm behind the rings… chaiinline is a bit more critical for track
Well I have a leg length discrepancy anyhow so it all works out! Actually, I don’t notice the lopsideness at all.
If you have a link to an ISO taper 107 that would be great. All I’m finding is 102 and 111. 102 would be way too narrow to work.
That just shifts everything to the drive side though right. So now you’re a little lopsided.
Most cyclists don’t really notice offset cranks.
Back when 3-piece cranks (i.e. square-taper) were the norm, it was common for crankset/chainring clearance to be handled by using similar-shaped crankarms on both side, but mounting the DS farther outboard. With cartridge bottom brackets this can be done by putting a spacer behind the drive-side flange of the cartridge; on adjustable bottom brackets where the spindles could be swapped out, this was often handled by using an asymmetric spindle with a longer DS, like this:
It wasn’t rare for asymmetries to get up into the 1cm range, even on mass-production bikes.
The problem is that the medial side of the shoe hits the crankarms - so I placed a 2mm washer to move the pedals outward and make just a tight spacing that makes it possible for me to pedal without the shoe hitting the crankarms - https://www.form-bikefitting.com/...pedal-spacer-2mm-kit
pic1 - without 10mm extender plate and 2mm spacer
pic 2- with a 10mm extender plate and 2mm spacer = 8mm narrower stance
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My apologies about the late response! I went to my parents home for Christmas and then this thread completely slipped my mind. I just remembered as I am on the chase for 145 or 150mm cranks (again/still).
Regarding the 145mm crank, are you using the BKK model, or did you opt for the Jcob ones?
Meanwhile, I went ahead and ordered the Croder cranks. Things did not go as planned, though. That is the reason I am back in the crank shopping game.
Currently, I’m hoping to find a more robust (road) version of the Wattshop Cratus Aero Crank, ideally with a non-carbon chainring. Do you think it’s possible to find a modern chainring suitable for road bikes that fits a 144bcd, in case I decide to take a DIY approach? Most of my races this year will be on flat to rolling courses.
Actually, I don’t notice the lopsideness at all.
