What is loss of power or service life in installing an 11 speed shimano cassette and derailer
on my old chain rings or buying modest price 5 bolt FSA rings ?
Trolling vender pages I don t get a clear picture of characteristics of new chain rings versus
my 6 year old "10 speed "shimano compact crank .
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I would buy new shift/brake levers, front derailleur, rear derailleur, cassette, chain, crankset, and bottom bracket.
I would buy new shift/brake levers, front derailleur, rear derailleur, cassette, chain, crankset, and bottom bracket.
But what are dimensions or specs of
What I should buy? 150 $ cranks and
50 $ smaller chain rings are attractive .
Is there a conflict between a FSA eBay
48 tooth chain ring and a 11
speed ultegra chain . Selection of
Same O cranks and rings is so much
Better than official 11 speed gear and
A visual test of putting an unworn
Older chain ring
Against a new 11 speed chain at a bike shop
Looks fine . Will it cost watts or wear
Extra fast ?
You would buy 11 speed components.
why would I need to buy a front derailler for narrower chain ?
Isn’t that like looking for a metric cresent wrench.
All motion and limits of front derailer can be adjusted i believe.
I am hoping a bike designer or machinist can educate our
obsessive bike gadget ways .
I believe that the inside width of an 11 speed front derailleur cage is different than 10 speed and there is a different amount of travel.
The high and low limit adjustments are not relevant to proper shifting.
You could try a 10 speed front derailleur with an 11 speed drivetrain and see what happens.
Width is a good point. I will take feeler gauges to bike shop and check.
Funny my wife’s bike front triple derailer cage measures to be the same height as my double .
Does the gear change or just the brochures ?
unless the pivot arms changed in length wouldn’t the shifters control extent of movement on front derailer.
New 11 speed chain appears to be only 0.3 mm thinner.
The shifter pulls or releases a specific amount of cable length.
The derailleur is designed to move a specific distance which is dependent on the shifter moving the cable the proper distance.
Also, the distance between chainrings could be different for 10 and 11 speed.
No loss of power, no loss of service life. Front shifting might be a tiny bit less crisp, but that’s just at the margins.
All bike chains (5spd, 6spd,…11spd) have the same internal dimensions; it’s only on the outside that they are narrower. Cogs/Chainrings themselves have not gotten narrower, just the spacing between cogs on the cassette.
The only thing that has to match, is the right shifter, cassette, and rear derailleur, so that the indexing is correct. Beyond that, incompatibility is pretty much a marketing scheme. I mix the stuff up all the time. I’m currently training on a 53 year old bike, with original Campy front rings and BB, original Campy Neuvo Record front derailleur, and a 10 speed cassette, with 105 rear derailleur, with 11 speed chain and jockey pulleys, and everything works perfect. This is my “leftover” bike, that my fiends have nicknamed “Scrappy”. It’s the product of a donated bike, and my past project take-offs and less desirable components. It’s become my favorite bike of all times.
The only thing that has to match, is the right shifter, cassette, and rear derailleur, so that the indexing is correct. Beyond that, incompatibility is pretty much a marketing scheme. I mix the stuff up all the time. I’m currently training on a 53 year old bike, with original Campy front rings and BB, original Campy Neuvo Record front derailleur, and a 10 speed cassette, with 105 rear derailleur, with 11 speed chain and jockey pulleys, and everything works perfect. This is my “leftover” bike, that my fiends have nicknamed “Scrappy”. It’s the product of a donated bike, and my past project take-offs and less desirable components. It’s become my favorite bike of all times.
Thanks for sharing your trials. From info here it seems i could use spacer washers on my old cranks and make them
match the new latest and greatest dimensions.
What campy components (no bottom brackets ) could i mix into my shimano array ? Bar end shifters ? rear derailer ?
My first 11 speed setup was actually a 10 speed SRAM red. I only changed the cassette and the rear shifter/brake lever and it worked flawlessly for a couple of years until I sold it.
My first 11 speed setup was actually a 10 speed SRAM red. I only changed the cassette and the rear shifter/brake lever and it worked flawlessly for a couple of years until I sold it.
Interesting. Now I am tempted to just install an 11 speed cassette and a set of $100 11 speed bar end shifters and I might be 22 speed ready !
ITS LIKE FREE SPEED !
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Thanks for sharing your trials. From info here it seems i could use spacer washers on my old cranks and make them
match the new latest and greatest dimensions.
What campy components (no bottom brackets ) could i mix into my shimano array ? Bar end shifters ? rear derailer ?
I don’t know anything about campy, other than it’s what was on the bike, from 1967. The front end of the drive train cranks/rings/derailleur are all still original 53 year old campy stuff. I don’t know why you would need spacer washers for anything? I mic’ed the thickness of the teeth, and I’ll be damned, they are the same as the 11 speed chainring on my tri bike. The rear is a 10 speed derailleur/cassette, and the chain is an 11 speed Ultegra. I’m using micro shift bar end shifters, and everything works smooth as silk.
Your 1967 crankset is working fine with current standard 11 speed cassette !!!
i didn’t think it that simple. It must be expensive to change chain manufacturing dimensions.
With the chain being the most precise component on a bike I am
surprised to buy one of decent quality for $30.00 but I guess any commodity
that is the same for 50 years gets hammered down in the free market.
If you race that classic bike you should get primo spot in T coral
with nice carpet and special wet suit stripper .
If you race that classic bike you should get primo spot in T coral
with nice carpet and special wet suit stripper .
I wish! So far, this is my training machine, but it is very race worthy, and I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in a race, if something were to happen to my race bike (which is also quite a dinosaur now- 2009 Cervelo P1).
Speaking of chainrings, Wickswerks makes some great chainrings, that bolt right onto an FSA 110 compact crankset. I put a set of their 52/36 rings on my tri bike.
With the chain being the most precise component on a bike I am
surprised to buy one of decent quality for $30.00 but I guess any commodity
that is the same for 50 years gets hammered down in the free market.
Chains haven’t been the same for fifty years.
Fifty years ago, most chains for derailleur bikes generally had flat outer plates, and used explicit bushings on each roller.
Shimano introduced the Uniglide chain in 1976, which popularized the practice of shaping the chain plates.
In 1981, Sedisport introduced a “bushingless” design, where shaping on each side plate acts as half of the “bushing” for each pin. Since each “bushing” consists of two independent pieces that can move a little relative to one another, and since the shaping process for the plates makes it trivial to bevel the “bushing”, this design allows chains to be made with much greater lateral flexibility. This is especially important for modern tooth profiling, where the chain is encouraged to smoothly “flow” from one cog to the next, rather than being ripped up and off one cog before falling down onto the next: you need a laterally-flexy chain for the former situation to work well.
Chains have since continued to see lots of changes, getting narrower on the outside to accommodate narrower cog spacing on cassettes, and continuing to change their shaping.
If you want something that hasn’t changed in a long time, a rudimentary 80s-esque chain like the KMC Z7 can be had for around $6 these days. Hardly a high-end product, and not something that will work on an 11-speed drivetrain, but they work fine for what they’re for.
i didn’t think it that simple.
Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn’t. In some cases, modern super-narrow chains can be prone to getting caught “between rings” on old cranks. But sometimes it works fine. Just depends on how the components were profiled and whether you’re unlucky or not. Throwing a friction shifter at the problem can help, since it eliminates incompatibilities in pull ratio, and allows the user to do any overshift that’s required.