I recently bought a Giant Propel and it is 11 speed ultegra. My race wheels are some fairly old Reynolds DV Stratus which have a 10 speed hub. Any possibility that an 11 speed cassette is going to fit?
yes, search the forum there have been a lot of previous posts on this
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11spd cassettes are 2.85mm wider than 10spd. The 11spd cassette won’t fit on a 10spd freehub. Contact Reynolds to see if there is a way to swap out the freehub.
Wheels Mfg makes a cassette that might work. It worked for me.
Yes, you can definitely make those wheels work great with your 11-speed shimano drivetrain.
It just requires a simple and easy (and also free) trick, and your shifting will still be perfect. No hub modification is needed, and you don’t need to buy any new parts, except the cassette of course. This will work with 11-25 and 11-28 shimano ultegra or DA 11-speed cassettes (maybe shimano 105 too, but I haven’t checked). Detailed info is here.
Greg @ dsw
I read about a guy who just machined his hub the extra 2.85mm. He can’t run anything smaller than a 25 granny gear though as it’s too close to the spokes.
could you swap the hub to campy 11sp as described here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174353
and use an 11sp campy cassette?
just a thought
doug
could you swap the hub to campy 11sp as described here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/...ewtopic.php?p=174353
and use an 11sp campy cassette?
just a thought
doug
Yeah, I know about that. But then you can only use that one cassette on that wheel…
On the flip side, I’ve heard most people running 11 speed are going to wide range cassettes (11-28), so there’s not much need to choose between different cogsets for different courses anymore.
could you swap the hub to campy 11sp as described here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/...ewtopic.php?p=174353
and use an 11sp campy cassette?
just a thought
doug
Yeah, I know about that. But then you can only use that one cassette on that wheel…
On the flip side, I’ve heard most people running 11 speed are going to wide range cassettes (11-28), so there’s not much need to choose between different cogsets for different courses anymore.
I got the setup on my race wheel (10 speed) where I have the 11-28 on there, and I just took out the 13 tooth, and stuck the spacer that comes after that after the 28 and fixed my limit screws to remove the last click. Now I am pretty well done for all courses. I prefer to have a bit more progression at the high end than the lower end, because I am not really in the smaller gears that much.
To Dev and DarkSpeedWorks,
I’ve seen you recommend this a few times before. But what I really don’t get about this is that you have just converted an 11 speed cassette into 10 speed. I mean, why not just stick to 10 speed then? The advantage of 11 speed is 11 cog choices - which you effectively limited to 10 now - just so you could use your 11 speed levers and derailleurs. Kind of like the tail wagging the dog.
Unless I am not fully understanding what you guys are trying to say.
I have basically invested in a few hundred dollars (okay more than a thousand dollars) upgrading my TT bike to 11 speed. My conundrum is that I have SEVEN wheelsets (including four sets of carbon Zipps and a disc) that are all pre 2012 - hence cannot be converted. If I remove that 13 cog tooth - then I just defeated the entire purpose of that upgrade and should have just stuck with my 10 speed.
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But what I really don’t get about this is that you have just converted an 11 speed cassette into 10 speed. I mean, why not just stick to 10 speed then? The advantage of 11 speed is 11 cog choices - which you effectively limited to 10 now - just so you could use your 11 speed levers and derailleurs. Kind of like the tail wagging the dog. Unless I am not fully understanding what you guys are trying to say. I have basically invested in a few hundred dollars (okay more than a thousand dollars) upgrading my TT bike to 11 speed. My conundrum is that I have SEVEN wheelsets (including four sets of carbon Zipps and a disc) that are all pre 2012 - hence cannot be converted. If I remove that 13 cog tooth - then I just defeated the entire purpose of that upgrade and should have just stuck with my 10 speed.
Yes, I think you’re missing a major point.
We didn’t ‘upgrade’ any of our bikes to 11 speed. We bought a couple of framesets. So, now what to do? New 10-speed groups are getting very hard to find with the options we want, and often they cost more than the comparable 11-speed groups. And the cable actuation ratios of shimano 10 and 11 speed is changed, so it is likely that 11 speed components will be a bit more future compatible than 10 speed parts. So we bought a couple of 11 speed ultegra groups. However, we have about 5k invested in race wheels. Don’t want to sell them, we want to use them. Hence the cassette trick. Now we can use them.
Do I think I am missing out with 10 cogs vs 11 cogs? Not at all. Easily 98% of the improvements in function of 6800 ultegra over 6700 ultegra have nothing to do with the extra cog. They have to do with how the STI levers work, how the RD shifts and how the FD shifts (vast improvements), crank refinements, how the brakes work, etc. I really could care less about the extra cog. Heck, 8 or 9 cogs would be fine.
The problem most people face is this: they have an expensive and nice quiver of race and/or training wheels. They buy/acquire/get from sponsor/etc. a new 11-speed bike. Why? Well, have you tried to find a brand new 10-speed bike? (hint: for all practical purposes, they no longer exist.) Anyway, they want to use their old wheels with the new bike they just got. Hence the cassette trick. Now they can use all of their old 8/9/10 speed wheels.
Result?: savings of a few hundred to many thousands of dollars.
Hope that helps,
Greg @ dsw
Aha! Now that makes more sense. I’ve never looked at it fully from that angle before but I do appreciate what you are doing. Actually, I am also in that boat, but with one foot dangling from the side. I am upgrading two bikes to 11 speed:
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My road bike which currently has 7800 DA, which I am upgrading to mechanical DA because it is hard to find replacement 7800 parts; and
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My TT bike which currently has Di2 Dura Ace, which I am upgrading to 11 speed Di2, while the market for 10 speed Di2 is still hot. Eventually used prices for 10S Di2 will drop and I don’t want to get rid of this set when it is too late.
Acknowledging all you said about the better shifting, lighter components, etc about the 11 speed sets, I also want to use that extra cog. I don’t need it (heck my opther 9 speed bike is totally fine) but if that extra cog is there, then why not just use it.
Perhaps I may just end up doing what you suggested. I am not so sure about that extra 11th click and if that is advisable in the Di2.
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