I have a 10 year old Cervelo P3 (even has the team CSC logo on it - remember them?). It’s pretty stock with Campy 10sp gruppo and tubular zipp 808’s. Is there any reason I should move up to one of these super bikes (such as those in the aero testing earlier this week on this ST forum) or are there upgrades which will make the trusty old P3 more comparable (+/- 5% faster given similar wattage)?
I’d say it mostly depends on how important is it for you to be to be a little faster and your financial situation. There are plenty of upgrade you can do to the P3, I’m not sure about the total watt savings from these things though (aero bars, fork, brake are a few items that can be improved).
No. Optimize your position on the P3 first - it’s still a very good bike after all these years.
Some upgrades:
- Tri Rog Omega brakes
- fast skin suit
- fast helmet
- rear disc
- fast tires
- wind tunnel time
- fast aero bar
- SRAM ETap
I also have a “classic” P3. Have had a decked out P5-6 in the past. Don’t feel like I’m giving up much, if anything, to that bike. Just depends on the equipment you attach to your P3 and your fit on the P3.
I bet the classic P3 gives up, over the course of 40k and all else being equal, maybe 40-50 seconds over the P5-6. Is that worth $4000-5000+? You be the judge.
I have a 10 year old Scott Plasma CR1. Front end could definitely be cleaned up. Compared to a Speed Concept 7.5 or similar, any thoughts on how much of a difference I could see? Running 2007 pre-Firecrest dimpled 404 front, 808 rear (often with disc cover).
Too many variables, not enough information, I know.
Thank you - will consider the upgrades. However, I am very curious how the Premier Tactical fairs in the testing. It’ll be easy to drop 5500 in upgrades especially if wheels are involved.
I am very curious how the Premier Tactical fairs in the testing. It’ll be easy to drop 5500 in upgrades especially if wheels are involved.
This post may be the fast path to the answer you seek: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/?post=6283827#p6283827
The bike is an incredible value.
I have a 10 year old Scott Plasma CR1. Front end could definitely be cleaned up. Compared to a Speed Concept 7.5 or similar, any thoughts on how much of a difference I could see? Running 2007 pre-Firecrest dimpled 404 front, 808 rear (often with disc cover).
hmm
Too many variables, not enough information, I know.
yup
Thank you - will consider the upgrades. However, I am very curious how the Premier Tactical fairs in the testing. It’ll be easy to drop 5500 in upgrades especially if wheels are involved.
But not particularly difficult to keep the total cost of the same upgrades (less electronic shifting, which will have no aero benefit) to … dunno … about 600 or 700?
My wife races on a 2003 Cervelo P2K that she’s had from new. Sure, she’d be faster on a newer bike but she still can win or podium in AG in her local short course races (which is all she does now) so why bother.
I appreciate your wife’s prowess and am confident she’d kick my butt, however on long courses, the increased speed seems to mean a great deal more than on short courses.
Bike means very little, position trumps. Considering winner from 10miler was on a very old frame 2004 Trek frame.
I have a 10 year old Cervelo P3 (even has the team CSC logo on it - remember them?). It’s pretty stock with Campy 10sp gruppo and tubular zipp 808’s. Is there any reason I should move up to one of these super bikes (such as those in the aero testing earlier this week on this ST forum) or are there upgrades which will make the trusty old P3 more comparable (+/- 5% faster given similar wattage)?
I bet you could get them closer than that with really smart specs. Fast bars, rerouting the cables and faster brakes than stock dura-ace would narrow the gap significantly. Just post a picture of your bike. 
I also have a “classic” P3. Have had a decked out P5-6 in the past. Don’t feel like I’m giving up much, if anything, to that bike. Just depends on the equipment you attach to your P3 and your fit on the P3.
I bet the classic P3 gives up, over the course of 40k and all else being equal, maybe 40-50 seconds over the P5-6. Is that worth $4000-5000+? You be the judge.
Remeber Chrissie in Kona on a P2. How many could beat her time now on a more expensive bike?
Remeber Chrissie in Kona on a P2. How many could beat her time now on a more expensive bike?
I remember her at (was it) Lake Placid on a Cervelo Soloist road bike where she won. Same with Simon Lessing.
I appreciate your wife’s prowess and am confident she’d kick my butt, however on long courses, the increased speed seems to mean a great deal more than on short courses.
True. but you have to think what the value is to you. If you’re just off the podium then it makes sense. I was always MOP so a newer bike wouldn’t move me to FOP. I’d still be MOP but with less money in my bank account.
My 2007 P3C isn’t a ‘Super’ bike? Damn.
If you can dial in fit, no reason to look for a new IMO. As mentioned, you can find upgrades that will make the setup better. I still run the 2007 P3C. Still 10-speed mech but upgraded pretty much all else. All-in to include frame was <$3000.
One difference between an old P3 and the newer ones is the width of the frame at the bottom bracket. The old ones had the slimmer frame with the bearings on the outside of the frame. The newer ones have the bearings incorporated inside the frame, hence the frame is wider but also stiffer. The trend of many bike manufacturers now is to have the wider frame at the BB as exemplified by BB30, BBright, BB386 EVO etc.
One difference between an old P3 and the newer ones is the width of the frame at the bottom bracket. The old ones had the slimmer frame with the bearings on the outside of the frame. The newer ones have the bearings incorporated inside the frame, hence the frame is wider but also stiffer. The trend of many bike manufacturers now is to have the wider frame at the BB as exemplified by BB30, BBright, BB386 EVO etc.
A difference I can’t discern doing 1500 watt sprints on a road bike, much less while doing a time trial.
One difference between an old P3 and the newer ones is the width of the frame at the bottom bracket. The old ones had the slimmer frame with the bearings on the outside of the frame. The newer ones have the bearings incorporated inside the frame, hence the frame is wider but also stiffer. The trend of many bike manufacturers now is to have the wider frame at the BB as exemplified by BB30, BBright, BB386 EVO etc.
A difference I can’t discern doing 1500 watt sprints on a road bike, much less while doing a time trial.
And one of the reasons I bought an “old” P3C was it had a normal bottom bracket which doesn’t creak, need spacers or adaptors and is perfectly stiff enough for 99% of all bike riders.