I think a bunch of folks were missing that, so we moved it up, to the bullet points at the top of the listing.

---

--
TriRig.com

Mine just showed up! They look great and will be put to use shortly! Thank you!

They are a little heavier than the View-Speed skewers but if they don’t remove carbon from my fork, I’m more than happy to gain a few grams.

Enjoy the ride!

For all users - note that the wrench hole is relatively shallow, so ensure you are pushing INTO the bolt as you torque, to avoid cam out.

---

--
TriRig.com

Random questions, but is there a torque wrench anyone recommends that's easy to carry in a flat kit that's also not priced like Silca?

Your arm would work pretty well.

Yeah I meant more to not over torque but see how that was a stupid question now

I have a couple rides on mine, but they will definitely be a race-day only item. I LOVE how they don't dig into the dropouts at all. There's enough thread peeping out of the rear one that I can get a rubber band around it.

Most importantly, I had not found a lightweight/TI skewer that would keep my rear wheel in place since it's a horizontal dropout. This didn't budge at all, but I certainly didn't do any sprints either. Seems pretty solid. I only used 5 Nm, even though TriRig said it could go up to 6 provided the hub was okay with that.

I have concerns about longetivity with a softer metal and only a 4 mm hex insert. I see why keeping it a simple size of wrench that everybody owns is a good idea. Part of me thinks a T25 would have made more sense, but I'm a non-engineer on an internet forum. I grabbed some high end bits from a specialty hardware store and used a fresh one for installing these both times. I have a handful of new Bondhous hex keys too and used those to loosen. I could see an old or low tolerance hey key camming out these skewers based on my experience with ti bolts in stems. That's the closest thing I can find to a downside right now. The possibility of camming out the skewer. Nick will probably come correct me that they're using some super titanium to prevent that though.

Good buy if they really save a couple of watts.

I have had my set a few months now on my road bike (plenty of miles and abuse), and they have been great! They just work, and make my inner weight weenie, and aero weenie happy.

I may trim the excess thread off the drive-side.

How does one "abuse" a skewer? lol

Abuse of a bike involves potholes, crap roads, bunnyhops, and just plain riding in conditions beyond pristine tarmac.

Abusing a skewer happens in one of two ways. Physical abuse such as slapping, hitting, kicking, and other physical violence. Almost as sinister is psychological abuse where one makes the skewer feel worthless, unloved, and isolated. The isolation part is key here as you don't want the skewer to feel they have any way out.

Financial abuse is another form, but i tag that under a subset of emotional abuse, but others argue different. Either way, my skewers have no access to finances like credit cards. I am in total control of that.

And i am totally against abuse in human relationships btw. Bikes too, but in the end of they day, they need to deal with me riding them when and how i want... because they are bikes.

Did you get any info on this. I just bought some and want to use with Zipp wheels, but Zipp tell they have no recommendation. What torque did you end up using?

Hmmm tried asking the Zipp help desk and they just sent me a pdf of the wheel manual, something that contains nothing on recommended or maximum torque on their hubs. Anybody got any info on how much torque to use on recent Zipp hubs?

Hubs are made to take quite a bit more torque than a quick release skewer is worthy of. Just go with 5-6 Nm. I bet the hub is good for 5x that. Thru axle specs are typically 10+ Nm and there are no hub issues. The bolt head of the Styx is slightly more shallow than I would have hoped for and I wouldn't be surprised if you could strip it if you go crazy and go much higher torque than 5-6 Nm.

I torqued mine to 6 Nm and stripped it after a race when I was trying to remove it. Had to use the hotels maintenance drill (and 4 drill bits) to get it off my bike. This was the first bolt I've ever stripped on a bike, car, or otherwise. Definitely need to be careful with how shallow it is

Yuuuuck. I only do 5 Nm. I bought a brand new hex key to use with mine just for removal and a brand new bit to use for installing.

I really think the head should be deeper to reduce cam out. T25 would have been a better choice, but that would make it more of a hassle since not everybody would be carrying a T25.

Yeah, Styx bolt heads are definitely shallower than some others. FWIW, we made the wrench head slightly deeper since the earliest batch. So depending on which batch you have (if you bought within the first couple weeks they were released, or any time later), you might have the slightly shallower one. The difference was only 0.5mm of depth, but that can be significant.

Another big factor is using proper technique and using force going INTO the bolt as you torque in either direction. A fresh, high-quality Y-tool is one of the best tools for this purpose. Or a good T-way wrench. For race-day or mid-ride purposes, I really like the Fix-It Sticks, which can quickly become a T-handle, and accept any bits you put into them. A good set of Wiha (my personal preference), Silca, or Bondhus bits are all great choices.

As mentioned earlier, checking that torque before each ride is good practice. And if desired, you can use a little Loctite Blue on the end of the threads for extra security.

---

--
TriRig.com

I was one of the early buyers. A deeper head would make these perfect, so I'm glad that's changed.

PM sent.

---

--
TriRig.com

Same here. Putting them at home is more or less secure, but I feel like if I had to change a flat on a course, I wouldn't be able to properly toque it.

I love most the tririg stuff, I have the bars, extensions and brakes on my bike. High quality. I don’t use the skewers anymore. Got in on the first batch, really liked the looks but the bolt head is way too shallow. I run tubeless on my wheels so rarely need to remove a wheel except for bike transport. Being extra careful, pressing in while torquing the skewer I can see and feel how the bolt head is slowly getting rounded over time. It’s too the point I fear it will get rounded out and I’ll be stuck at an inconvenient time. A shame, I really like the look of the Styx skewers on my bike but function is more important than form. 0.5 mm isn’t much, I am skeptical it will be enough of an improvement.

I feel exactly the same about them. Love all the Tririg stuff (bars, cages, brakes), except for the Styx skewers. I worry that in the heat of the moment, when I do flat in a race I'll round out the head and am stuck on the side of the road. I do think I have one of the earlier versions, maybe that 0.5mm makes it a bit better.

I was an early adopter. I replaced the rear skewer back to my old quick release and will replace the front soon with the old quick release. Finally found out the pain it is removing and changing on a busy road with not much shoulder. A spot that you want to change a flat super fast. Well at least that was my experience. Also I was extremely close to not being able to remove the skewer at all and almost stripped out the inside. Did just get it off and back on tight enough to get home.

Wish I could make better comments. I generally like everything I have purchased from TR. This one did not work out for me and it was a bad enough experience to be honest that I don't want to experience again. Not enough wattage or style point savings on this one for a non-competitive cyclist. I'll stick with old school quick release skewers going forward.

I too had one of the early releases and wish it was deeper. I used it a few times and then ditched them since I was concerned I would not get my wheels off in a race due to wear/tear. Love the tri-rig stuff though.

My experience is the same as many have explained above. I used the skewers a few times then stopped since it was clear they would round out the bolt head soon. There really should be a replacement program with re-designed bolt heads. In general I'm a fan of Tri-rig equipment.

I would use them for races.