Zipp wheels - lower end weight range of rider?

Triathlon Forum
1

Hi all; I am looking at getting racing wheels this year and am leaning towards Zipp, having done lots of reading and researching.

I am having a problem narrowing down which model would be best for me. I read on various message boards, don’t go with back disk wheel or deep dish (ie 808/1080) wheels if you are “too light” and/or “not a strong cyclist” as you will be blown around in the wind. I am 130 lbs and definitely not the strongest cyclist in my class. I can’t see anywhere what “too light” is but I am guessing I am in that category? In which case, should I go with 404 front and back?

Also, anyone have any thoughts on clinchers vs tubular? I know tubulars are supposedly lighter and faster. I used to road race with tubulars “back in the day” so I’m comfortable with gluing them on. Any difference in the hassle factor for the gear you would have to carry in a race for changing ie spare tubular (or 2?) vs spare tube plus tools.

Decisions, decisions… Thanks!

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404 front, 404 rear with a disc cover. Disc rears are not hard to handle, deep fronts can be.

My girlfriend handles this combo just fine and has only been riding for 2 months.

The disc cover option is cheaper and gives you the option to remove it for races that don’t allow discs (like hawaii!)

the zipp 404 tubular did test a wee bit quicker than the clincher according to HED’s website, it is up to which one is less hassle dealing with!

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+1 for JackMott! Couldn’t agree more.

4

I’m 140 lb, and ride Easton EC90 aero (which are the depth of a 404, but about 100g heavier), and any strong wind tosses me around like a rag doll. Hopefully you won’t be facing 20mph winds on race day, but I would STRONGLY suggest learning to ride your wheels before taking them out on race day.

Also, it was noted earlier that a rear disc is much easier to control than a deep front. I find this is very true.

The question of tubular v. clincher is an age-old question. If you weigh 130 lb (whew!), I imagine that you would like your wheels to be as light as possible. Zipp 404 tubulars weigh an impressive 1230g, whereas the 1615g clincher is significantly heavier. 400g of rotational weight is a HUGE difference, especially if you intend on doing any climbing whatsoever. Tubular is worthwhile to be, because I spend lots of time climbing.

5

except if you are doing a half ironman or longer, and running tubulars, that weight difference will be negated partially by the heavier spare tire equipment you have to carry

I’m 140 lb, and ride Easton EC90 aero (which are the depth of a 404, but about 100g heavier), and any strong wind tosses me around like a rag doll. Hopefully you won’t be facing 20mph winds on race day, but I would STRONGLY suggest learning to ride your wheels before taking them out on race day.

Also, it was noted earlier that a rear disc is much easier to control than a deep front. I find this is very true.

The question of tubular v. clincher is an age-old question. If you weigh 130 lb (whew!), I imagine that you would like your wheels to be as light as possible. Zipp 404 tubulars weigh an impressive 1230g, whereas the 1615g clincher is significantly heavier. 400g of rotational weight is a HUGE difference, especially if you intend on doing any climbing whatsoever. Tubular is worthwhile to be, because I spend lots of time climbing.

6

“except if you are doing a half ironman or longer, and running tubulars, that weight difference will be negated partially by the heavier spare tire equipment you have to carry”

Yes, that is what I was envisioning - the extra weight and bulk of a full tubular tire (or two if I am feeling particularly paranoid about flatting that day!)

I am doing Olympic distance.

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…and don’t be too impressed that I am only 130 lbs… that is probably 10 lbs too much. I could do much better to lose my butt baggage b4 I start obsessing about wheel grams :frowning: