Just trying to get a opinions Zipp Tubular or Zipp Clinchers and why?
Just trying to get a opinions Zipp Tubular or Zipp Clinchers and why?
FIRST!!!
Definitely get the tubular if you are paid to race and have a support vehicle behind you. Otherwise get clincher. This is the truth, and also good trollbait for those suckers who bought tubulars and need to defend themselves.
The tubulars are more aero, but a pain.
I hope a day comes soon they make the Sub-9 in CC, and we no longer have to pay an aero penalty for clincher.
Assuming you aren’t looking at the 202
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tubulars are more light, have a better feel on the road (due to higher tread), and can run lower psi’s. the are actually fairly easy to glue up. the problem comes when you need to change the tire. pulling a tire off is a royal pain in the ass, not to mention expensive. if you were going to just use tubulars for races, i would highly recommend them. training on them is too pricey, unless you like that kind stuff. besides that, they are really great (for racing).
I used clincher until I crashed because of the tire rolled off the rim, something extremely unlikely to happen but it happened to me.
I actually developed a phobia on clinchers.
Someday, but that day may never come, I will go back to clinchers though because they are easier to deal with.
The 404 is what I have been looking at. I like the 808 and believe it would work just fine in my area. However, my main concern is just the clincher and tubular debate. I will not be racing just riding a few days a week, so it seems that the clincher is smarter but I guess the tubular could work. The thing about the tubular I like is that if you do get a flat you can still ( Baby ) it back to wherever. But like citanest said flat and then a crash on his clincher that would suck, and if a flat occurs and you have nothing to repair you are screwed. So decisions decisions!
I will not be racing just riding a few days a week,
If am just ridding a few days a week I am not dropping 2k on some 404’s
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If thats your use, I’d go clincher, and I’m a guy who really likes tubulars in some applications. You can ride flat tubulars in some cases, as you can clinchers. Most times riding a flat tubular is better, but the only time I would ride either is a important race.
Just get a tube, a minipump and glueless patches and keep the kit on your bike. You’ll be ready to fix anything flat wise. To have a flat on a clincher cause a crash would have to be a blow out at the worst possible time. Sure it can happen, but in 20 years of riding and never had it happen.
Styrrell
I would go clincher. When I bought my race wheels, I decided to buy tubulars for rolling resistance, etc. (all the reasons you’d buy tubulars). However, I’ve had major buyer’s remorse simply I’m so familiar with clinchers and I’m so not familiar with tubulars. If I flat in a race I want to be confident that I can get that flat repaired. Sure I can try to put my spare tubular on the rim after I rip off the flat tubular, but I’ll have zero confidence that my spare won’t roll off the rim. This wouldn’t be the case with a clincher.
I’ve had both. If I was in the market for new race wheels I would get clinchers. Clincher technology is better now than it used to be. Changing tubulars is a pain.
Jodi
Just trying to get a opinions Zipp Tubular or Zipp Clinchers and why?
If you actually tried the search function you would have found about 100 threads addressing this exact question. Here is a hint, go to the options, type in in tubular or clincher then type in posts by rappstar.
I swear Dan needs to have a webinar on using the search function.
If you aren’t racing you could buy a pair of Sram S80 (808) and a pair of Sram s60 (404) for the money you’ll spend on a single pair of zipp wheels.
Here’s what I’d do… buy an S80 rear and an S60 front, some latex tubes and some fast tyres. Fast aero wheels with nice rubber, puncture repair and half the price.