I`m trying to install a Michelin Pro Race 3 on a Zipp 404 and I pinched 2 tubes so far…
Is there`s an ¨easier to install¨ tire for those wheels?
Thanks
jf
the pro race will be easier after the first install or two
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If the rim strip is to thick or wide, the tire won’t seat properly causing a pinch. Try using a thinner strip, maybe cloth.
I think it’s worth the hassle. I love Pro Race tires but they truly are a tough install on most wheels when new(especially my 404’s). Do a search and you’ll see lots of similar threads.
If they go easier on another set of wheels, you could put them on, inflate and let them stretch for a day or two - they’ll be much easier after that Also, if you put them in the dryer for a few minutes before installing it seems to help a little. Unlike many tires, I typically have to use a tire iron with a new set of Michellins but I try to minimize how much I use it and try to be extra careful of that tube. They do take me longer than most tires but once they’re on, I love them and they’ll be fine if you need to take them off again later.
So powder your tube, get yourself psyched up with some rockin music and get those babies on there 
The size of the rim strip has absolutely no effect on the ease of tire installation, so don’t waste your time/money changing it. What matters is the diameter of the outermost portion of the rim and the diameter of the tire bead.
I have found that zipps are bigger than some rims, and Michelin Pro3’s are a bit smaller than some other tire beads. Bad combo (installation wise). Great combo for actual bike speed…but i digress.
Tips to mount:
Have strong thumbs and an iron will
Use this: http://coachlevi.com/product-reviews/tested-easy-hand-bike-tool/
Throw your tires in the drier for a few minutes (never had to do this)
And to actually answer your question…buy a different tire: I found that specialized foldable tires are pretty ‘big’
In case you haven’t seen Michelin’s (excellent) suggestions for mounting tubed tires, see this link:
http://www.michelinbicycletire.com/michelinbicycle/index.cfm?event=mounting.view
People often overlook the fact that the area of the tire near the valve should go last, contrary to what many believe. This is because if you mount the valve area first, both sides of the tire bead physically cannot sit all the way down inside the rime as it can on the opposite side, making it significantly tighter to mount (for similar reasons, a relatively thick rim strip can indeed cause a tire to be more difficult to mount).
If you don’t mount your tires this way, try it. I can almost always get it by hand, no tire levers involved, including the new pair of Pro Race 3’s I just installed on my 808s last week.
I have found that zipps are bigger than some rims, and Michelin Pro3’s are a bit smaller than some other tire beads. Bad combo (installation wise). Great combo for actual bike speed…but i digress.
This is very true. I can mount virtually any tire on my Ksyriums with minimal effort. On my old 303’s and now 404’s it is definitely a lot more effort.
Finishing at the valve does make it easier, and if you have to cheat using tire levers be very careful not to pinch the tube.
good tip, I forgot to mention that.
and you sir…must have the strongest thumbs in the world.
I have always been under the impression that you mount the part of the tire at the stem first in order to avoid pinching the tube where it is is the least flexible in terms of its placement in the tire cavity.
Do you ever get any pinch flats at the stem with your method?
i was under that impression too. However when you think about it (or at least when I thought about it after reading the michelin stuff) the valve stem actually keeps the tube in while you’re getting that last bit of bead over the tire. The tube is in there and ain’t going to get between the rim/bead… thus you shouldn’t really get pinch flats if you leave the bead near the valvestem for last.
I have always been under the impression that you mount the part of the tire at the stem first in order to avoid pinching the tube where it is is the least flexible in terms of its placement in the tire cavity.
Do you ever get any pinch flats at the stem with your method?
Nope, not yet.
That is a good call. I am def. going to try this method next tube change. Worth a try if it is easier!
Hello Bushpilot and All,
Easier tire mounting and save yourself a few grams too.
Cheers,
Neal
The size of the rim strip has absolutely no effect on the ease of tire installation, so don’t waste your time/money changing it.
I have to disagree here. When you are trying get the last section of the tire on, it is important to have the beads on the opposite side of the tire together and down inside the rim. The thinner the rim strip, the further the beads fit inside the rim. It gives you a little more room to work with. It can make all the difference in the world. I had to resort to a thin rim strip to get a Conti trainer tire on.
TCW
good link, thanks.
there is yet another trick: eliminate any rim strip and use some veloplugs for the spoke holes:
PR3’s really are not the best tire for a 404 anyhow. Buy the zipp ones. Better rr, easier to mount and a better aero profile for the rim. If you want cheaper try the evo corsa’s in 21 mm size which are basically the same.
If you want to use them buy some beefy tire levers, those new pedro’s ones that come in sets of 2 work great.
I’d have to disagree with you too! 
When you’re putting the second tirebead over the rim the position of the opposite (first) tire bead has no effect. Actually, if the whole tire is at an angle so that the bead sits ‘inside the rim’ then the bottom of second bead is further away from the rim-wall you’re trying to push it over, making it even more difficult. AND, if the first bead is ‘inside the rim’ then the tube is probably wayyy to close to the rim-wall you’re stretching the tire over and you’re running more of a risk of pinch flatting the tube.
In regards to your note ‘when trying to get the last section of the tire on’, I suggest you read the Michelin guide linked above. If you do the valve stem area last the problem takes care of itself.
If you just want to spend money on velo-plugs or rim-tape that’s cool too, I think that velox looks ugly anyways.
I ran into this issue mounting my Conti GP 4000’s too, but I’ve always mounted the ‘second’ bead at the valve stem first and the opposite side last because I thought it would seat the bead better at the valve as you pull the opposite side on. Now I know better, have to try the ‘Michelin way’.
The size of the rim strip has absolutely no effect on the ease of tire installation, so don’t waste your time/money changing it.
I have to disagree here. When you are trying get the last section of the tire on, it is important to have the beads on the opposite side of the tire together and down inside the rim. The thinner the rim strip, the further the beads fit inside the rim. It gives you a little more room to work with. It can make all the difference in the world. I had to resort to a thin rim strip to get a Conti trainer tire on.
TCW
x2
I’ve used Rox tape before on tight rims. Works well.