Anyone try to fit a Zipp 1080 rear wheel on a P4? I want to be sure it will fit before buying the wheel.
The Cervelo site says it is a close call, but I’m 5’8" and 140 lbs, so I’m guessing it’ll be ok?
Just wanted to see if anyone has tried this combo.
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Yea, tried it. 160 on 56. Just too tight. No worky when you hammer it. Stick with a 900 on the back.
why would you even do that?
do people even look at charts of drag vs yaw angle?
you have the money for a disc, you don’t mind a heavy wheel if you are trying a 1080
get a disc!!
there is that place call hawaii…
every question as a reason,
The tolerances are extremely tight on the new Cervelo P4 and the new S3. Manufacturing of carbon fiber bike frames does not have the tolerances of steel machined products. There are slight variations with carbon fiber frames coming off an assembly line. What works with one Cervelo P4 frame, may not work another and vice versa. If it is tight Cervelo recommends trying the wheel with the frame before making your purchase. Also wheels deflect under load which is a function of rider weight and riding style. Undoubtedly Cervelo cut the tolerances too tight on the new P4 and S4 for rear wheels and some cranks, i.e. Campy. Cervelo has information on the web site plus you can contact Cervelo customer service.
I was thinking about purchasing a P4. However I am now leaning toward a P3 and getting a P4 when the kinks are worked out in the 2010 model.
Take a look at Cervelo’s web page for the P4. There is a good list of non-compatible wheels on the page- it’s a good resource.
I bought the P4 and have a set of 1080s I have been riding on it and they work fine, no rub.
I am 153lbs and have a relatively low cadence / high gear approach (80-86RPM).
I think this whole conversation (not just here, online generally) is largely about ride weight and power. I can see that a heavier rider with a big watt approach may have flex issues.
Chris Stephenson
You will have to try the wheel on your specific frame. The “slight variations” in chain stay width that others have mentioned are actually up to 2-3mm per stay, which means that your particular distance between stays could be 6 mm different from another bike, which is quite a lot.
Also, some others have mentioned about the wheel possible rubbing when it flexes under power. This shows a basic misunderstanding of how a wheel flexes. When a wheel flexes, the axis of rotation is actually in line with the chain stays, so the relative movement of the wheel inside the stays is virtually zero. However, when power is applied, the chainstays of the bike do flex, and can sometimes created wheel rub. Rub from wheel flex is most often noticed at the brake caliper (when it is mounted on the seat stays, not on the chainstays like the P4), not at the chainstays.
On the 3 P4s I have tried the 1080 on, I have found 2 it would not fit, less than 1mm clearance, and one with about 3 mm, which in my opinion was also too close, but could probably have been ridden. The Sub9 was a similar situation. The 808 was also very tight, plenty of room for a 404.
I hope some of this helps.
sounds like there won’t be any P4s at Kona this year unless they are on box rims
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Clincher or tubular???
well to be more precise
Any clincher will fit no problem, 404 808 1080 disc
and for tubular 404 and 808 are no problem the 1080 is tight so depend of each situation, and sub 9 isnt a good idea.
clincher zipp version are a bit narrower than the tubular versions…
Jonnyo,
Why do you say a Sub9 is not a good idea? Because of fit issues or for other reasons?? Gerard has already hinted in a previous post that he didn’t think a Sub9 was a good idea in a P3/P4 but didn’t elaborate.
Cheers
Norty