Yokozuna Cables

All:

Getting my P2C overhauled and switchng to Red. I was looking for some cables and saw Competitive cyclist touting Yokozauna cables as all that and a bag of chips.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with these and whether they’re worth the $65 for a complete set of shift and brake cables.

Bob

I just built my S3 with them and red, they are great! The shift seem to be really good. The brake work well too, but the housing is very stiff.

Kurt

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51101&highlight=yokozuna+cables
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I will agree, they are very stiff so whoever is installing them needs to know what they are doing. I had Yokozuna on my bike (SRAM Red) until I switched to Nokon - the rear brake cables were so stiff that my quick release was no longer very quick and my cockpit had a bona-fide “return-to-center” mechanism - i.e. the wasn’t free movement of my aerobars. Really, stiff is an understatement.

Nokons are much nicer for my bike, and my setup. Not to detract from the Yokozuna cables, which were very nice looking, but the housing just didn’t work for my bike’s routing.

Anybody know how long the housing that comes with the yokozuna kit are? I’m hoping to recable my TT bike with the stuff, but wasn’t sure if you can splice the housing together like nokon, or if what comes in the kit is even long enough to route if you have to use housing the entire length of the frame for both front and rear derailleur. Thanks.

I switched to the Yokozuna Cables because of the R2C shifters.
This things work so much better with the Yokozuna cables.

Regarding the stiffness of the break cable housing, I never had any issues. I do run them with Zero Gravity breaks and the only thing you need to do is cutting the housing to the right length. Compared to the price of the Nokons, figuring out the right length is defently worth it.

Other than that the cablehousing are not long enough to run through the whole frame. Just long enough to run from shifters to the hole in the frame where the cable disappears.

Kim

So if my frame requires my to run housing the entire length of the frame then I have to look elsewhere for cables/housing? How did you route your cables? What frame are you on? Thanks.

Yes you have to look into something else.

http://i49.tinypic.com/w0riwl.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/hwjupl.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/x1i0iq.jpg

I am switching to R2C shifters. What cables are you suggesting are not sufficient with the R2C’s? I was planning to use good old fashioned dura ace.

I first started using them with the cheapest Jagwire cables and that already worked ok. So Dura Ace will do the job just fine, I belive. Try to avoid as many curves as possible

I will agree, they are very stiff so whoever is installing them needs to know what they are doing. I had Yokozuna on my bike (SRAM Red) until I switched to Nokon - the rear brake cables were so stiff that my quick release was no longer very quick and my cockpit had a bona-fide “return-to-center” mechanism - i.e. the wasn’t free movement of my aerobars. Really, stiff is an understatement.

It is a bit tricky to get the length right. I had the most trouble with the top tube to rear brake section. Too long and it would push the brake caliper; too short and it wouldn’t fit. I just kept shortening it a couple mm at a time until it was perfect. Using a Dremel to cut the housing (vice a normal levered cutter) was a big help in being able to make such small adjustments in length.