and I must say that I am impressed. I replaced a dura ace 7800 BB which was very good. Never had any problems with it. I really can’t recall what it felt like when I first installed it but I can assure you I wasn’t as wowed as I am by the FSA. Haven’t ridden it yet but to run the cranks by hand it’s like butter. Hopefully it will continue to live up to my first impressions. It’s the only ceramic item I have on my bike. I wouldn’t pay rediculous money for ceramic bearings but this was a reasonable, $ wise, upgrade in my opinion. Upgrade is my first impression.
I also went a bit silly and upgraded to ceramic bearings in the BB and my wheels. Quite easy to change yourself. I noticed that the wheels and cranks seem to spin a bit easier, but if this has translated into extra speed is something I don’t know.
I can’t see how it wouldn’t translate in to a watt or two. Even changing a chain and cassette (correctly) can only be proactive reductions in friction.
well it’s been said before that unweighted bearing tests are meaningless as they perform very differently when weighted (i.e. with you sitting on the bike and pedalling).
Fully aware. That’s why I prefaced my comment “Have not ridden it yet”.
if i had the chance or the money, i would get the ceramic bearing for BB, derailler pulley and wheels. Just for mental effect even… but i m 99% sure they wont do ANYTHING better than the normal bearing… i just wish i was 100% sure!!!
Yea, that 1%. They feel really really good though. That in and of itself was soothing. Like you say, mental euphoria.
Ok, dumb question, but can a FSA Ceramic BB work with a Da crankset as stock or did you need to utilize spacers, etc to make it work?
Thanks,
Bob
yep its works perfect as standard but you cant do it the other way, FSA c-set with DA BB.
Oh, and if you want to save weight when your using a DA c-set you dont need to use the alloy spacer that fits between the 2 bearings in the fsa BB or the larger one that goes between the cup but that one does keep the water out so i would just loose the inner one.
the inner one is just needed to stop you overloading the bearings when using a FSA c-set with the DA its not a problem
How do you know this? I didn’t see anything in the directions that stated anything along these lines.
I’ve got one. There is no way for me to really measure this but I am very impressed with the several things about the new FSA K-Force Light crank and BB:
The new chainrings are excellent. Shift quality is very good for the front derailleur. Again, while there is no way for me to measure this the bottom bracket does feel smoother turning. The bottom bracket also feel stiffer (this may be due to the crank too). The whole thing is awfully light.
I’m using a 52/38 compact at IMMooo.
I look at ceramics much like I look at lighter weight parts. Its hard to quantify in the real world how much benefit they are, but lighter, smoother, bearings that aren’t as sensitive to water contamination have got to be better than standard, so if you have the money wheres the downside?
Styrrell
Does anyone know how the SABB self aligning Ceramic BB compairs?
I’m intrigued by the compact crank options. It will more than likely be something I look into in future purchases.
Does anyone know how the SABB self aligning Ceramic BB compairs?
good idea but i reckon it would creak like theres no tomorow as the bearings can move around in the cups.
as removing the spacer just undo one side and pull the silver spacer tube out and its done. If your not worried about water getting into it then pull the red spacer tube out to. Dont do either if your using fsa cranks