so yesterday tried to install my new zipp 808 onto FELT DA 2010. But having some issues with rear brake … namely after pressing on the brake lever the brakes lock - ie spring doesnt open the calipers to the starting position.
any ideas? seems like i would need to change the spring - or need to change the full caliper
appreciate
Brake pads need to be cork, not rubber. Rubber will adhere to the carbon surface and not open, like you have stated.
used zipp carbon brake for carbon wheels pads and calipers behave the same when wheel is not on
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without a up-close pix, tough to troubleshoot
The 1st thing to check is make sure the spring isn’t broken , or didn’t slip out of the caliper,
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Probably too much friction in the cable housing, or a kink/burr in the cable is hitting where the cable leaves the housing and enters the brake arm.
Loosen the cable locking screw on the brake, hold that end with pliers and use the other hand to squeeze the brake lever and see if there is high overall friction, or a snag point.
For high overall friction, try turning the bike over and dripping some chain lube onto the cable close to the housing to let it flow through.
For a kink, replace the cable.
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oh no … caliper looks as ok and works fine for not so wide rims; however when i set it up for Firecrest it seems that it doesnt fully open after pressing the lever - ie opens 90 pct but the last 10 pct one needs to pull by hand
Probably too much friction in the cable housing, or a kink/burr in the cable is hitting where the cable leaves the housing and enters the brake arm.
Loosen the cable locking screw on the brake, hold that end with pliers and use the other hand to squeeze the brake lever and see if there is high overall friction, or a snag point.
For high overall friction, try turning the bike over and dripping some chain lube onto the cable close to the housing to let it flow through.
For a kink, replace the cable.
I was thinking cable problem too. Also check for anything gumming up the calipers, causing friction between the arms or around the pivot point.
Try adjusting the set screw, one full turn counter-clockwise, small inset screw on top surface opposite side from cable barrel and quick release lever.
Now I’ll admit that I’ve never knowingly set eyes on the specific frame you have, don’t have Zipps or any type, especially firecrest and so I feel ideally placed to be a ST expert on this issue.
I assume that before you had ‘normal’ wheels on the frame. The swap has consisted of taking the old wheels out, swapping pads for the new zipp ones, and stuffin the new wheels in.
What occurs to me is that the wider rims will be meaning that the pads aren’t hitting the rim perpendicular, and, where it me to be in this situation, then I’d be having a look not at the mechanical things which really shouldn’t have changed just by a wheel change, but at the angle that the pads are hitting the rim. I’ve had it in teh past where if it’s not square then to ‘retract’ the pads have to slide on the rim, and of course by definition there’s friction between the pad material and the rim. I’d expect that you need to remove a spacer / shim between the shoe and the brake arm to get that right angle / spacing.
As I say, this is based on a hitory of brake fettling on other rims / brake systems, so it may not be this.
guys thanks a lot - it seems simple removing one shim on the shoes gave me the 1 mm i needed … all is nice and dandy … appreciate the help