I’ve decided to stop being such a cheapskate and purchase good wireless computers both my calfees. Anyone have any favorites, or suggestions?
“Good wireless computer” is kind of an oxymoron in my opinion. We’ve tried almost all of them. We still find a hard-wire, $29.99 Cateye Velo II is better, cheaper, simpler and more reliable.
Life is too short to mess with wireless computers. But, the Polar 720i works better than most.
I have never had a major problem with my Sports Instruments SI 90 HR wireless. Just change the batteries regularly. I have had occasional interference from power lines and such, this is rare, I haven’t noticed it more than twice in 2 years. It also displays heart rate and HR training zones, a nice feature to have.
The Ciclo HAC4 uses the same wireless sensor as the SI 90, and so should have the same degree of reliability, plus the additional features. But its expensive.
Sigma wireless I tried, but did not work reliably, so I went back to the SI.
In short, the SI has been more reliable than any wired computer I have had. I ride a lot in the rain, the fork sensors tend to get water in them where the wire enters the sensor. Not so with the SI.
Oh yeah, setup is easier also. No winding that wire around the cables. And it makes it that much easier to break the bike down for travel, change cables, etc.
I have the 2nd the opinion on the Polar S720i. I’ve had mine about 3 weeks and just love it. As long as the watch is mounted to the handlebars, I get a good reading from both the speed and cadence sensors. With the watch on my wrist, speed works well but cadence registers only when I’m on the aerobars, probably due to a line of sight problem. I upgraded the HRM from a Polar Accurex II and feel the S720i is a huge step up in reliability. You do need a PhD to figure out how to use it, though.
On my other bikes, have a Performance wireless computer and have never had any problems. The only reason I got the Polar is because I wanted cadence and the updated HRM features.
Thanks guys! I think I will stick with the wired ones.
No-one commenting on the Mavic Win Tech? We are still awaiting it’s arrival in England, but are hearing rumours of reliability issues.
I 3rd the opinion on Polar’s 700 series. I have the 710.
I cranked up the signal strength on my speed sensor to the high setting and now have it mounted to my rear wheel. I get a speed reading no matter where my watch is on the handlebars. Planning on doing same thing with CAD sensor just have been to lazy to screw with it lately…
The speed sensor is factory set to low and cad plug is set to med. By moving the jumper closest to edge of circuit card you set it to high. decreases battery life a bit but greatly improves watch recieption.
The other drawback - depending on who’s perspective you use, is that you may over-power a riding buddy’s signal if you are riding next to them.
If nothing else it helps keep track of “trainer miles” all winter
Jim
I have the S510 and have had mixed results with the watch on my wrist as opposed to the handlebars. kvelarde do you know if the sensors are the same for the 700 and 500 series? If they are exactly how doe you change the settings as you described. I would love to put my speed sensor on the rear wheel and i still haven’t come up with a way to mount the cadence sensor on my new P2K as the thin edge on the aero downtube doesn’t fit the back of the sensor very well. Thanks for any help you can offer, I had no idea you could change power levels great post !
I have also had mixed results with the Polar S-510. If I start my watch before actually getting on the bike (like one would do in a triathlon), I can never get the darn thing to respond to the speed sensor…thus no speed measurement? Also I hate the fact that the 510 does not show the distance for the ride until you hit the stop button.
Dave from VA
There is no difference between 700 or 500 series sensors. They al use the same ones. Only differences are with much older models of Polars.
Look at the direction sheet that comes with sensors. you remove the two screws to open up sensor (like you were going to change battery) and you’ll see the jumper that controls the power. move it onto the two jumpers closest to the edge of the circuit board.
If you were to open up both CAD and SPD sensors at the same time you’d see that they are factory set to different power settings.
I found this out on link from this forum to an Australian Polar site. I’m still looking for link…
Jim
Found link to Polar Forum:
http://www.pursuit-performance.com.au/dcforum/DCForumID7/40.html#
Forum is great if your into tweaking polar stuff or having problems.
Jim