Hey all,
I’m considering getting an older wired powertap wheel. Looking at the manual, i’m not really sure how the wires will look when set up (ruining the clean lines of my 08 Transition). Does anyone have any pics of their wired powertap setup on their aero frame?
An 08 transition has a plug to run the wire down by the bottom bracket if I am not mistaken
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Lots of electrical tape. You can get it in many colors and if you have skills with scissors you can make it look pretty stealth. Matching lines will help disguise tape colors that are a little off. You should have plenty of wire to run it however creatively you want to get unless you have like a 70cm frame.
I think I remember a post where Rappstar may have cut the wires, run them internally, and resoldiered them back together but he’s got a higher IQ than any man alive.
It’s a very thin little wire. Really not a big deal.
I had a wired PT harness on my P3 (aero/training purposes only) and simply used electrical tape.
In fact I have a couple of runs under my frame anyway (down tube and bb) to prevent stone chips from any rocks thrown up by the front tire.
Not sure how you are mounting the head unit, but either above or below the top tube with electrical tape and then tape or tie the sensor to your seat stay. Pretty clean, I wish the wired SRM cables were that long.
You can cut and splice the wires. I did it with my SRM. The transition has a place for it. If you tape it, go on the trailing edge. I believe that Jens tested that back before the wireless SRM (he wasn’t willing to drill into his frame… sissy!) and found the trailing edge to be faster.
I believe that Jens tested that back before the wireless SRM …
Jens didn’t test it.
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I ran it under the top tube and used red and gray tape. Looks like crap, but oh well.
You can cut and re-solder a wired PT, but be ready, the wires are ity-bity (the “wire” for a PT is actually 4 or 5 separate wires). It worked on my Soloist, but I was glad I know my way around a soldering iron. I simply cut the wire, drilled a 1/16 hole into the cable-stop on the soloist and brought it with the rear der. cable. Then re-soldered and heat-shrinked the wires again, then re-heat shrinked the wire bundle.
I want one of those bikes. It’s says me all over it. Can I borrow it for a couple a months?
Very cool.
Now that I had a minute to look at my bike…
The extra hole outlets just above the rear brake cable hole on the down tube. You would have to run a powertap cable around the bottom bracket and along the chainstay. I did not have luck mounting the “shark fin” to the chain stay and having it work (data dropping out) due to the shape of the chainstay. Mounting it on the seat stay isn’t exactly a thing of beauty as it is.