My wired powertap was consistently reading ~50 Watts below what it should have on my ride today (based on RPE). I tried zeroing out the torque, but that didn’t help. I just replaced the hub batteries, too. Any thoughts on how I could fix this?
Thanks,
My wired powertap was consistently reading ~50 Watts below what it should have on my ride today (based on RPE). I tried zeroing out the torque, but that didn’t help. I just replaced the hub batteries, too. Any thoughts on how I could fix this?
Thanks,
Maybe you need to recalibrate your (subjective) RPE ?? 
I’ve had the PM long enough to know that something’s wrong when i’m pushing around 300 Watts, but the computer’s only displaying 250 or so. It’s not a matter of adjusting my RPE; I could just choose to ride without the PM altogether. Rather, it’s gaining back the functionality of a training tool.
There’s a way to have the little yellow computer tell you the torque number during calibration. It should be around 512. I had a similar issue to you on my wired power tap and it was reading a number significantly different. I called cyclops/saris, they told me to send it to them and they fixed it. Took a little over a week to get it back. I’ve since upgraded to a wireless so can’t remember the steps to check the reading on the LYC but you should be able to search the forum for it.
Ian seems to know what hes talking about. Ladt time i had this problem it took me the whole ride to realize it was set on avgerage power. Just maybe something that couldve been overlooked. Bit the folks at saris are very helpful
My wired powertap was consistently reading ~50 Watts below what it should have on my ride today (based on RPE). I tried zeroing out the torque, but that didn’t help. I just replaced the hub batteries, too. Any thoughts on how I could fix this?
Thanks,
How about doing a static torque check to verify (or, recalibrate) your RPE?
Same problem here. Can someone save me the misery and tell me how to re-calibrate the wired PT. I obviously haven’t used mine much, but it is way off
you can’t, if off, need torque tube replaced by saris
.
If it is “consistently” low, it shouldn’t really be a problem. You just have a new FTP norm to base all your training and racing efforts by.
Same problem here. Can someone save me the misery and tell me how to re-calibrate the wired PT. I obviously haven’t used mine much, but it is way off
You can’t, but you can check that the torque output is correct or not. Search on PT stomp test.
True, but I’m not sure of the exact amount by which the readings have decreased, only a range of ~50-70 Watts. If the problem doesn’t resolve itself, then yes: I could just train with the relative power output. Either way, it would be nicer to see the more accurate (bigger) numbers, ha.
Some more details: While the power output has definitely decreased systematically, output of speed still seems accurate and general connectivity is constant. Also, I was able to check to torque value (btw, to check on a wired PT is slightly different from the online manual instructions) is within factory specs (around 517, I think). Thoughts? The first ride this started happening was on a relatively cold day. Temperature-related?
True, but I’m not sure of the exact amount by which the readings have decreased, only a range of ~50-70 Watts. If the problem doesn’t resolve itself, then yes: I could just train with the relative power output. Either way, it would be nicer to see the more accurate (bigger) numbers, ha.
Some more details: While the power output has definitely decreased systematically, output of speed still seems accurate and general connectivity is constant. Also, I was able to check to torque value (btw, to check on a wired PT is slightly different from the online manual instructions) is within factory specs (around 517, I think). Thoughts? The first ride this started happening was on a relatively cold day. Temperature-related?
Do you keep the bike inside and do you have the head unit set to auto zero when coasting?
Yes, I do keep it inside. Not entirely sure how to check the auto-zero function, though.
Yes, I do keep it inside. Not entirely sure how to check the auto-zero function, though.
It’s in one of the setup screens. Check a manual.
If you keep it inside and it’s not set to auto zero…and if you don’t manually zero it (I’m assuming you don’t) then yes, a wide temp change could cause accuracy problems.
Yeah, figured it out. Navigating the LYC is the worst. But, it does appear to be on auto-zero.
I read another account of a PT user experiencing similar problems which were inexplicably corrected. Hoping that will be the case in the days to come.