I am building my first high end tri bike. I have decided on all Sram red group set and Reynolds strikes 66m wheels, but I cant make my mind up on the frames. I have it down to two the wilier tri crono or fuji d6? What do you think?
Thanks
I am building my first high end tri bike. I have decided on all Sram red group set and Reynolds strikes 66m wheels, but I cant make my mind up on the frames. I have it down to two the wilier tri crono or fuji d6? What do you think?
Thanks
Well, if you are building a “high end” tri bike, why not the Wilier Cento1 Crono over the Tri Crono? Designed by John Cobb vs the Fuji (which is VERY cool looking) designed by ?, but don’t know how “aero” it is. Why did you decide on these 2 bikes anyway?
They are the two frames that fall with in my budget. I the tri crono is a bit more pricey but i just dont know if its really worth it over the D6.
HA, and i wish i could afford the Cento1, but that frames is stupid expensive!
Yup - I jumped for a Cento1 last fall and have been road racing the HE$@ of it. Love it. Well, you likely know my vote. Neither bike will slow you down much
There are LOTS of great bikes in that price range though … Sometimes, one will just “speak” to you ![]()
They are the two frames that fall with in my budget.
There must be a corollary to this statement, since there are many frames at that price point. . .but, not granted your personal circumstance, I say this: I lusted after the Tri Crono and my vote goes with that, of the two. Holy shit what a sexy bike.
haha ok let me rephrase that… They are the only two frames that my shop carries in my budget! However i totally agree with you that the Wilier is damn sexy, but is it worth the extra money over the D6. Even though i think it is super trick how Fuji has both brakes tucked into the bike and out of the way.
haha ok let me rephrase that… They are the only two frames that my shop carries in my budget! However i totally agree with you that the Wilier is damn sexy, but is it worth the extra money over the D6. Even though i think it is super trick how Fuji has both brakes tucked into the bike and out of the way.
I have read what Maestro John Cobb has written about the Wilier and brakes; the short version is that it don’t matter if the brake shelters the fork versus the fork shelters the brake. John Cobb had free hands when he designed the Wilier - to be the fastest bike on the marked.
I have not studied the Fuji - but have used the Wilier for some time. In addition to beeing fast, it handles very well, climing, turns, safe in technical decents, and with standard brakes etc it is very easy to work with - no special skills, tools or parts needed to repair or adjust brakes, hedset etc.
Looks aside (personally I think the D6 looks much cooler), I’d go with the Wilier. The simple reason is it was designed in the wind tunnel to be fast vs. designed on a CAD terminal to look fast. On the D6 the front brake has more drag than a standard setup due to the positioning behind the fork (where turbulent air coming off the spinning wheel collects) and the out-in-the-wind cabling needed to access it. The rear brake is tucked inside a massive cowling that probably adds to pressure drag.
if you can – go test ride them – I own a D-6 and love it – rock solid at high speeds (50+ mphs); I am sure the Willier is also an awesome bike.
one final comment – on the D6 the only problem that I have is that the front brake cable comes up through the stem – this can be a hassle to deal with if you are swapping stems / handlebars, etc…
Please do keep in mind the fact that there are natural laws against anything but Campagnolo on a Wilier…
none. they’re both fugly as hell ![]()
Unfortunately Campy is making these laws very hard to follow without 11 speed bar-ends to match their new gruppos…
I have a Cento Crono and love it. It is the 2009 model so it has the seat post vs. mast The only issue that I have had is that the clamp needs to be filed down. I have cut my hand several times loading it on and off of the bike rack.
Also, I am running SRAM on mine. No 11 Speed shifters was a no go for me. I would have done it in a second if they were available. I held out for a while as the Zipp R2C’s originally claimed to be Campy compatible but when they finally came out they were not.
Yes but doesnt shimano come stock on them ? Thought I saw a stock one at Cadence with dura ace . I thought also it was a sin. Went to confession right after as my eyes were still burning.I think the preist put a call into the Vatican and turned Cadence in ![]()
Yes but doesnt shimano come stock on them ? Thought I saw a stock one at Cadence with dura ace . I thought also it was a sin. Went to confession right after as my eyes were still burning.I think the preist put a call into the Vatican and turned Cadence in ![]()
Pour yourself a Campari and soda with a twist and you’ll be fine…
I just built up my D6. I picked up the frame over the winter after that Team Fuji callouts to join the “team.” Did it just to get a discount on the frame. I picked up a 2010 Matty Reed frame from Advanced Sports for $1500. Went 2010 SRAM Force derailulars with Red shifters & brake levers. I went ahead and got the Sram tt chainrings as well, makes it look so much faster.
My advice and this is only because I have had it built and only have about 10 miles on it. The headtube is extremely small. Not typical. Make sure you check reach and stack (As Mr. Frame at the Ball State Performance lab taught me all about it!!) first. I ride a 58cm, so thats what I got. The bike fits me, but really needed to build up the cockpit. I made the mistake of putting a 100mm integrated bar/stem combo on it. After my fit, quickly realized it wasn’t going to work and had to start over. The drop from the seat to the bars is significant. I do have an non-typical shaped body, 6’ even but have a 35.5 inseam.
Check everything out deminsion wise before you make your decision.
D6 looks way better!!!
Wanksta, doesnt look as if there is any toe overlap on that 58cm. Is that correct? Wish I was tall enough if that is the case.