The kids and I go to Europe every other year for a few weeks in July and since I just read that Lance is going to try for number seven I’m thinking about going down to Grenoble and Courcheval to watch the 10th and 11th stages climbing Courcheval and the famous Galibier.
We’ll be in Holland and I’m thinking about renting a little motor home (guessing that hotels are hard to find when the tour is in town) and driving down. We’ll bring our bikes, as always, but since my youngest is only 8 we’ll save them for the fietspads (bike paths) in Holland, and not climbing the Galibier!
I know Cathy has done it and I think I remember some others posting pictures from their trips. I’m looking for tips, do’s and don’ts and any other useful information regarding watching the tour specifically and not about general travel in Europe (this is my 32nd or 33rd time there and I speak 3 languages so I’m fine in that regard). What I’d like to do is check out the team compounds on the rest day in Grenoble (Cathy, you did that didn’t you?), and then most importantly I want to get a good spot on the Galibier to see the riders go by.
I’m choosing a climbing stage because I’ve always wanted to see a stage on Ventoux, Galibier, L’Alpe d’Huez or Tourmalet, they go by slower and I don’t want try and pick out riders in the peloton as they go by in a 30mph group (which my kids wouldn’t enjoy).
OH… and I don’t want to do one of those guided-tour things… goes against my “go with the flow” philosophy of traveling
I went to a Formula One race in Germany a few years ago and underestimated the costs (talk about expensive tickets!!!) logistics and number of people attending the race, so any comments or advice regarding the Tour would be appreciated.
If you don’t have local contacts who are Tour savvy, then I’d suggest contacting someone in country who has experience running tours. I know at least one ST poster who runs these. Even if you don’t sign on for part of an organised tour, you can at least get some advice (i.e even using a motor home will have it’s challenges.)
The only TdF stage I have seen was champs elysee in 01. I would really recommend trying to see this stage if you can, as I reckon it maximises your ‘involvement’ in the race. You see the caravan and the riders multiple times and can really soak up the atmosphere.
I saw the two stages of the 04 giro in to and out of bormio, along with an experienced Tour watcher. If you are driving, plan to get there early before the roads close. Don’t plan on being able to move much during the day. Try to pick a slow spot that is high enough on a climb that a ‘selection’ has already been made so the peleton will take a while to go past you and will be a bit broken up. Access to a TV is great as well… Staying in the actual start/finish town can be cool if you get a chance to see the cyclists or the team buses etc.
btw… I think Grenoble is pretty ordinary (polluted, industrial) by comparison with other towns in France. choose your stages carefully.
I hope to be putting this in to practice for 2 stages of la vuelta this year.
I spent a week following the Tour in 2002, mostly in the Alps but also took a train to Paris to see the final stage. The whole spectacle is pretty awe inspiring. I went with Sporting Tours based in the UK because their prices were pretty reasonable and the itinerary sounded good. If you’re driving yourself around remember that the mountains get crowded pretty early so you’ll need to get up there quickly to find a spot to park. Then you’ll be cooling your heels for a while waiting for the mountain traffic to clear to get back down. If you’re willing to hang out, drink some wine, and relax for a bit with the motorhome then its no sweat. One of the mountain finishes we saw, Les Duex Alpes, had a ski lift that took the non-riding passengers up to the finish line which would be an alternative to driving up if you don’t mind being away from the vehicle.
I would also recommend avoiding the finish line on the mountain stages. Its usually very crowded plus you have to deal with the barriers. I much preferred venturing a few kilometers down and setting up shop on a hillside. There’s always groups of people having picnics and the Belgian contingent was consistently having a roaring good time. On the Colombiere, there happened to be a small town about half way up which was great because we could go into the local pub, drink a few pints, and watch the Tour on TV before popping outside to see the caravan and riders fly by.
Lastly, the start of the stage is the best time to get autographs (although the rest day would be great too I’m sure). Mr. Armstrong was swamped but you generally have great access and the riders were always willing to sign. Just thinking about the trip is getting me pumped to go and do it again. Maybe next year’s Giro.
What I’d like to do is check out the team compounds on the rest day in Grenoble (Cathy, you did that didn’t you?), and then most importantly I want to get a good spot on the Galibier to see the riders go by.<<
The rest day might be hard since the teams tend to stay in a number of places, but if you knew where one team was (and usually there are a few teams in the bigger hotels), you might get lucky. We had great access due to the guys on the tour I was on.
I didn’t think I would like a guided-tour thing, but I was WRONG! I got lucky and picked a terrific company (Bike Styles) and I wouldn’t go with anyone else. In fact, I just emailed them today and I’m going this year (Alpes to Paris). I get to go back to Chamonix! And Grenoble–ick. Stevo’s article ciinched the deal for me. http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/?id=2005/stevo1
For watching on the mountains, I’d try for mid-mountain, instead of near the top. Less crowded and you might even get the motor home there.
You had better park your motor home half way up the Galibier about 3 days before the event and stay there (there is a “creperie” about half way, just when it gets really tough - 10%, so it’s not like you would starve for 3 days in case). There will be millions of other mobil homes doing this so you had better get there early if you want a spot on the Galibier.
If you are just happy with seeing them on a flat stretch, then you can arrive the same day, no problem.
You had better park your motor home half way up the Galibier about 3 days before the event and stay there (there is a “creperie” about half way, just when it gets really tough - 10%, so it’s not like you would starve for 3 days in case). There will be millions of other mobil homes doing this so you had better get there early if you want a spot on the Galibier.
If you are just happy with seeing them on a flat stretch, then you can arrive the same day, no problem.
“3 days”… “millions”?!
If you’re serious, since the motorhomes are not much bigger than the cars it’s not a size issue it’s a sheer number of cars on the mountain issue and the 3 days would apply to motorhomes and cars. True?
Grenoble icky, huh? Big city too? It’s been so long since I’ve been there I can’t remember anything about it. I wonder how hard it would be to find the team busses if I had no idea where they were?
Well, maybe not millions, but a lot, and a lot of them go there a few days in advance to make sure they have the best spot, or a spot at all.
That would apply to cars as well, but usually those doing this get a mobile home because they have to stay there for a while.
Next best solution, go to Valloire, the ski station at the bottom of the galibier (and at the top of the telegraph pass), and from then ride your bike up, or go for a walk up the pass.
Well, maybe not millions, but a lot, and a lot of them go there a few days in advance to make sure they have the best spot, or a spot at all.<<
Diabolo is right. And now with Lance there, it will be crazy, I think.
Regarding finding the teams–I think that when they get to the mountains, they are spread out all over the area. If you want to see them, a stage start is the best and then, you will be behind the barriers. Unless your tour guide is an ex rider and has access and can get a few people in. And the early stages is really the best place since everyone is much more casual and not stressed.
Depending on the set-up, at the finish of a stage you can sometimes be where the buses are. In one stage last year we were sitting outside at a bar watching the finish on TV when the team buses started rolling in. Domina Vacanza and T-Mobile were within spitting distance from us and US Postal at the end of the street. When the stage was over, all the riders had to ride right by us.
A couple of years ago my family and I spent the day on Col de Columbiere. A few things we learned:
We got to the mountain about 8 in the morning and it was already jam packed. We found a spot near the top that allowed us to walk back and forth between the switchbacks. In retrospect, we should have gotten there about an hour earlier.
Be prepared with lots of food, drinks, warm clothes. I cannot remember if there were port-o-pottyies are not.
Be prepared for a massive traffic jam trying to get out of the mountains and be prepared to be there all day. Once you are there nobody can leave until late in the day.
The riders are moving more slowly than on the flats but they still fly by.
Keep a close watch on your kids (if you have kids), especially when the advertising vehicles are coming through.
I think yuo’ve got the right idea. I followed the Tour in 2003 after Ironman Austria. We drove down to Alpe d’Huez the day before (across the Col de la Madeleine, Telegraphe, Galibier and then to Bourg d’Oisans) where I pulled out the bike and rode up Alpe d’Huez. Amazing to just drive these passes and see what these guys are climbing. Even better to try one yourself!
I’m racing IMG this July 10 and still trying to decide whether to go down and watch the race on the Galibier.
If you’re thinking of taking a motor home to the Galibier, we saw that it was pretty much full of motor homes the day before the race when we drive across. There didn’t seem to be anywhere left to park - especially near the top. It’s also very desolate on the hill side.
The day of the race on Alpe d’Huez, we drove in from Grenoble at 4am and got a parking spot pretty easily in Bourg d’Oisans at the bottom of the climb and slept in the car till around 8. Around 10am, we packed our bags with food, water and 6 beers and hiked up to turn 9 to watch for the day. Amazing atmosphere. Things I learned - bring lots of water. It was almost 40 degrees that day sitting in the sun on the side of the mountain and we were boiling! Bring lots of sunscreen. Bring shade and shades! If its a hot day you need to manufacture shade. We had a little Tour umbrella that we hid under and it was insufficient.
Remember that its going to be a long hike back down afterwards and bring some extra food and water for this part. If you can, bring a radio or soemthing to listen to the race as it occurs so you know what’s happening.
We got to see the teams up close (Telekom mostly) at their hotel a few days before. They seem very open to the public. We walked up to the back of the truck and peered in to see all the goodies, stood beside the cars with all the bikes lined up on top and one day sat and talked to and watched the mechanics from AG2R clean all the team bikes after a flat stage, including rewrapping Jaan Kirsipuu’s handlebars - fresh tape every day!
We didn’t plan anything. I rented a car and just drove to the town’s we wanted to see. Never had a problem finding a room - you just can’t be picky and you may have to try a few before you get lucky.
Have a great trip!
I may try to post a couple picture’s here later to show what it’s like!
We have been lucky enough to see it in person several times. Never used a tour group – we have always done it on our own. We usually check out around 4-5 different stages. It is actually pretty simple to do, even if you don’t speak a lick of French (although some key words and phrases will of course help), and half the fun is planning the logistics. We have never had any problems. In fact, why go over to France to spend hundreds/thousands of dollars on an organized tour just to hang out with a bunch of Americans the entire time?? That really doesn’t make much sense to me. Admittedly, the “do-it-yourself” approach is not for everyone, and if you simply want a “turn key” operation then a tour group might be the way to go.
Here is a great site with some useful tips on seeing the TDF on your own:
In fact, why go over to France to spend hundreds/thousands of dollars on an organized tour just to hang out with a bunch of Americans the entire time??<<
Agreed! That’s why I’m going with AUSSIES! Many of whom are now friends that I keep in contact with throughout the year.
We didn’t plan anything. I rented a car and just drove to the town’s we wanted to see. Never had a problem finding a room - you just can’t be picky and you may have to try a few before you get lucky.
That’s the way I travel everywhere overseas… just round-trip air tickets and a rental car in advance. I just can’t believe that it’s that easy to find a room in a city near or where the Tour goes, and that’s one of my concerns. If it is that easy I may ditch the mobile home idea.
We packed a bunch of camping gear in case worst came to worst and we couldn’t find anywhere but never needed it. We drove out from Paris to the TTT and stayed in the town where the finish was - the start the next day was in the next town over, so most teams and people stayed there I think. We stayed in a little place just around the corner from Team Telekom.
All of the other nights, we stayed somewhere near the town of the finish - but not necessarily right in it. For instance, we stayed in Grenoble the night before Alpe d’Huez and made an early drive to the bottom of the climb.
I think if we had tried to stay in Bourg D’Osians we would have been in trouble.
The key, as you imply, is to be flexible, not be too picky and don’t stay right in the town of the start/finish. Stick around after the race, watch the riders, the mechanics, the compounds, whatever. Have some dinner and then head on towards the next day’s destination.
This may be a little harder in the mountains, though, where there aren’t as many places to stay.
