http://www.velonews.com/photo/98417
Check the above photos.
Armstrong’s P4 was sporting these rather spiffy brake levers. Does anyone know who makes them?
::EDIT - they are USE Tula bars and levers::
Thanks in advance,
Barchettaman
http://www.velonews.com/photo/98417
Check the above photos.
Armstrong’s P4 was sporting these rather spiffy brake levers. Does anyone know who makes them?
::EDIT - they are USE Tula bars and levers::
Thanks in advance,
Barchettaman
There was a post on here about a month ago where some guy did that with his brake levers. Can’t remember the title.
Also, why even have bull horns if you aren’t going to ride on them. Seems like the most aero way to do that (using that setup) would be to have the bull horns removed and have the levers come directly out of the base bar somehow, just a thought, because you won’t be able to use those effectively from your bull horns (without strong thumbs)
It’s the U.S.E. Tula aerobars.
from USE’s website…**a proven 15 watt saving when traveling at over 30mph…**doesn’t sound like it is made for me…
They might not be particularly comfortable but I’m sure you could wrap your hands round the ‘pods’ and use the base bar as with any other handlebar.
I am going to do this with my next build. I am going to find a basebar that does not have the cable groove in the bar, hack off the extensions and put the brakes in front like the Tula aerobars at way under the price they are charging.
I was going to use my Syntace Stratos basebar that I have and do this but I am not sure if I am going to like the forward/rearward (depending on how I mount them) tilt that these bars would have.
The other thing about doing your own is that you will not have this huge bulge at the ends like this bar does.
I think you can find basebars on Ebay for $15.
The other option is to take a MTB flatbar and use that like Tom A did with his aero or die set up.
I would like to have the base bar a bit wider than the aero or die for my set up.
I have USE TULA bars on my aluminum Cervelo P3. They are super bars, but they are not nearly as functional for general training as the traditional setup. Specifically, the brake and pod layout is suitable for time trial racing, where you have time to prepare for situations where you will need to brake, but it is not suitable for pack riding. You have to pivot your hands from the pods to the aero base bar to engage the brakes. This takes some time to do. The pods are also not as comfortable as standard aero grips and the brake levers are relatively short throw, so your brakes have to be well adjusted and have good stopping power to work well.
They are also very low bars— at least an inch lower than the Syntace setup I had on my bike previously— This means I went from 2 CM to 4.5 CM of spacers on my P3 which is not exactly a pretty sight.
With that said, they are aerodynamic and as long as you spend your time riding in the TT position you’ll be fine.
I am going to do this with my next build. I am going to find a basebar that does not have the cable groove in the bar, hack off the extensions and put the brakes in front like the Tula aerobars at way under the price they are charging.
I was going to use my Syntace Stratos basebar that I have and do this but I am not sure if I am going to like the forward/rearward (depending on how I mount them) tilt that these bars would have.
The other thing about doing your own is that you will not have this huge bulge at the ends like this bar does.
I think you can find basebars on Ebay for $15.
The other option is to take a MTB flatbar and use that like Tom A did with his aero or die set up.
I would like to have the base bar a bit wider than the aero or die for my set up.
I’m not sure the non-aeroness of a round bar but narrow would be faster than something that I came up with with my Vision bars.
Also, I’ve got a theoretical way to make a USE Tula bar that I’m working on. Anyone know of a CNC machiner?
Well I have both but no way to test to see which is faster.
Well I have both but no way to test to see which is faster.
I dont think YAW would come into play too much with aerobars, so a roll down test should do it.
I have a perfect his for this test. I will maybe try once I have the new frame here.