Shimano type???
I really dislike my DA chian pin connection.
10 Speed?
I think it is model # 10s1
The only place i found was Glory Cycles. I ordered one a couple days ago. In stock.
About 79 bucks.
Do they have a website?
Thanks!
http://www.glorycycles.com/wi10ch10spfo1.html
Just make sure you don’t get the 10X1 because it’s the wrong width., it’s for Campy. Make sure you get the new 10S0 or the 10S1 as mentioned above.
The only difference being the weight?
The 10S1 is stainless and lighter, yes.
“I really dislike my DA chian pin connection.”
shrewd observation.
“I really dislike my DA chian pin connection.”
shrewd observation.
My observation is as good as my spelling of chain…
here’s the skinny, as far as i know:
dura ace 10sp chain: $45
wippermann shimano-compatible 10sp chain: $55 or $100, depending on the 10S-0 or the 10S-1. me, i’d take either. for $250 you can get the titanium version, but i’d probably split the difference and get the stainless version with hollow pins instead.
in all three cases you get what i consider a real CHAIN, made by a CHAIN company, with a connector that’s actually properly thought out.
Question… what if, for example, you change cassettes or chainrings and you realize you it’s too short… do you just use another link to add some sections of chain?
There in Orlando, FL. I order all my “SLOW” TUFO tires from them. Great place to shop over the internet.
Rex
Thanks Dan…I will opt for the hollow pin deal…DA connect pins are just crap…FYI…love your old bikes…had 3 different QR’s…SUPERIOR paint jobs!
thanks …
“Question… what if, for example, you change cassettes or chainrings and you realize you it’s too short… do you just use another link to add some sections of chain?”
your chain probably isn’t going to be too short. you adjust the chain to be as long as it can, which you do when the chain is in the small ring and the second to small cog. if you change the cassette to one with a bigger inside cog, all that changes is that your derailleur cage is stretched a bit more.
if the derailleur cage is past vertical, it doesn’t mean the chain is too short, it means the cage is too short. this is why i have an XTR r der on my road race bike, so that i don’t have to worry about this.
OK… lets just say it’s as short as it can be (in the big rear cog the cage is horizontal and chain is drum-tight)… or you just cut it too short… what do you do if you need it to be longer? On a Shimano you add a few links and bang the pin in… what do you do on a Wipperman, Sram or Sachs chain?
“in the big rear cog the cage is horizontal and chain is drum-tight”
that’s not how you adjust the chain. yes, it’s how many or most people adjust the chain length. but i’m right and they’re wrong. here’s how to adjust the chan length:
http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/maintenance/chain.html
if you really do need to make a wippermann or sram chain longer, you neeed a second connector link. same thing with a dura ace, btw. but to do that you sort of need to buy a new chain. so, best to just get a new chain.
I guess I’m not articulating this well… what I’m saying is it’s so dang tight that the cage is horizontal and the chain is wanting to be in a straight line and turning the crank is even hard because the chain is soooooooo short and doesn’t even want to bend around the pulleys … just to give an extreme example…
“I guess I’m not articulating this well…”
i think you’re articulating it perfectly. here are my answers:
-
sounds like your chain is too short. get a new chain. let me restate this in another, easier to understand, format: obtain a new chain, or, if you prefer, but a new chain. or, if you’re deft and clever, then with sleight of hand perhaps you could steal one. or…
-
put the chain in the SMALL chainring, and in the SECOND to the SMALLEST cog, and by smallest i mean a cog with the fewest number of teeth. if the rear derailleur cage is more/less horizontal, and the chain ALMOST brushes the pulley guard while still taut, then your chain is NOT too short. in this case your problem is that you’ve got more overall teeth in the system than the derailleur will accommodate.
let us say, for example, that you’ve go what i’ve got on my tri bike as i’m using it today in hilly terrain, namely 50x34 chainrings and 12x27 in the back. this is 31 total teeth (the difference between 50x34 (16 teeth) and 12x27 (15 teeth).
now, it could well be that your derailleur might only accommodate 26 total teeth, or 24. i don’t know. people on this forum could tell you if you tell them what derailleur you have. but in this case, your problem might be that you have too many total teeth for your derailleur to handle, and you need a longer cage derailleur. for this reason, i have a shimano XTR derailleur on the back of my bike, because i need its longer cage to take up all the chain needed to run 31 total teeth.
if this is not your problem, well, go back to answer number one.
i have 10x1 with my d a …maybe thats why i get the derailler knock
.
maybe thats why i get the derailler knock
Well maybe. Not sure what you mean by ‘deraileur knock’ but if you are referring to when the upper idler pulley on the rear deraileur chatters because it is in contact with a cassette cog, then that would be a result of improper adjustment of the B-tension screw. If the chain makes a ‘knocking’ moise when in the biggest rear cog and the big chain ring and the idler is not contacting the cassette cog, then that could either be the result of insufficient wrap by the deraileur as Dan mentioned, or the chain is too short!
For the orginal poster, if you shorten the chain by removing additional links, and immediately realize that the chain is now too short, then the links that were removed (solid or hollow pin) can be reinstalled with a suitable chain tool like the Park CT-3:
yes. i ordered online. just google them.