What the Hell Am I Doing Wrong? (Tire Install)

Triathlon Forum
1

Besides everything, which I already know. Thanks.

I recently bought a set of 2017 Reynolds Strike TLRs from the Classifieds. Great looking wheels, etc. Here’s the deal: I can’t, for the fucking life of me, get tires set up correctly on them. I’m trying to run them as clinchers.

First day I get them, try to throw the Conti 4000sIIs that were part of the deal on. Barely get the rear on, fronts won’t go. Rear has a huge bulge in it. Same deal after soapy water, overpressure, etc. Figure out that I had messed up the rim strip at one point and think it’s part of the issue. I replace with Silca tubeless rim tape. I also go with recommendations from others that Vittoria Corsa’s are an easier fit.

Well, here I am, blistered thumbs again, and about to frisbee the wheels. I get the thing about 75% on, go to use a tire lever to get the remainder on, and it just keeps popping the bead out further down the rim, leaving 25% off.

Yes, I’m trying to use the center channel. Yes, I’ve tried soapy water, stretching the tires on other rims, etc. No, I’m not selling them. Yet.

Looking for collective wisdom here, folks. I’ve about exhausted my brain on it. I want to race these in 2 weeks at CT 70.3–otherwise, I’m stuck with my stock wheels.

2

Turn the wheel away from you, and use your fingertips. 8 fingertips work a lot better than 2 thumbs. Please don’t use tire irons for installation, as you can cause damage to the sidewall fibers of your tire, and cause a future side wall blowout. If you are going to use any tools, get a bead-jack.

3

Tried that too. And yes, I know, irons aren’t recommended. I’m desperate. And pissed that I feel like I’ve thrown cash away.

4

I use tire irons on Reynolds wheels several times a week and have never had a problem.

5

I remember having the same issue, I eventually gave up and went down to my LBS where “my guy” had them on in 30 seconds. I didn’t know whether to be relieved or pissed off. Anyway the problem is that you think those beads are tucked into the center channel but they’re not. Unless you can tuck them in and hold tension on them they slip back to the outside rim. I’m still not very good at it but I can eventually get it done.

6

If you have sun where you live, put the tyres in the sun for half an hour before you put them on the wheels. You will still be in a bad place if you flat in the race however.

7

Maybe warm the tires up. Pot of hot water on the stove, not boiling but not hand washing either. Or a hot summer car.

Then try.

In winter I sit them over a room vent.

8

Yes, I’m trying to use the center channel.

What is your definition of centering the channel? Is it just that the tire bead is not sitting on the upper shelf? Because that by itself isn’t enough in some cases.

The biggest trick I’ve learned is that you have to also pull the slack out. I may totally fumble how to describe this with words…but here goes.

  1. Set the bead on 60-70% of the tire. This should be no problem.
  2. The remaining 30-40%, face the wheel so that the unseated portion represents 10:00 to 2:00 on a clock where 6:00 is pointing to your waist.
  3. With your right hand, hold the top of the wheel at about the 1:00 position and pull inwards to your waist.
  4. Now use your left hand and pinch the tire starting from 6:30 and pull it towards 9:00.
  5. Without fully letting go of the tire as you pinch, work your fingers towards 9:00 where you will now be pulling towards 12:00. Essentially what you’re doing here is pulling the tire beads up against the channel removing all the slack. You should then notice that the section that was unseated at 10:00 can now easily seat to 11:00.
  6. Repeat the same process now by using your left hand to hold at 11:00 (while pulling the wheel towards your waist), and your right hand pinches and works the tire from 5:30 back towards 3:00, and back up to 12:00. Again, you should feel that the section of tire that was only seated up to 2:00 can now easily get to 1:00
  7. From here on, you generally have so much of the tire on that the last section from 11:00 to 1:00 can just pop on with thumbs. But if not, repeat the process on one or both sides to pull just that little bit extra slack.

It’s really this process that makes all the difference in the world. I’ve had some funny moments where guys who have been riding for 20+ years, but just got deep channel tubeless compatible wheels struggle with flat changes. They’re cursing and breaking out the tire lever with 25% of the tire still unseated. I usually just grab the wheel from them, and in 30 seconds I have it on for them with no tools…just a wink and a smile.

9

So, it appears that part of the issue is that the tire slides towards the outer bead during the mounting process. How on earth are you keeping it in the center channel?

I’ve dealt with some seriously frustrating bike issues before, but tires? Really? This is killing me.

10

Yes, I’m trying to use the center channel.

What is your definition of centering the channel? Is it just that the tire bead is not sitting on the upper shelf? Because that by itself isn’t enough in some cases.

The biggest trick I’ve learned is that you have to also pull the slack out. I may totally fumble how to describe this with words…but here goes.

  1. Set the bead on 60-70% of the tire. This should be no problem.
  2. The remaining 30-40%, face the wheel so that the unseated portion represents 10:00 to 2:00 on a clock where 6:00 is pointing to your waist.
  3. With your right hand, hold the top of the wheel at about the 1:00 position and pull inwards to your waist.
  4. Now use your left hand and pinch the tire starting from 6:30 and pull it towards 9:00.
  5. Without fully letting go of the tire as you pinch, work your fingers towards 9:00 where you will now be pulling towards 12:00. Essentially what you’re doing here is pulling the tire beads up against the channel removing all the slack. You should then notice that the section that was unseated at 10:00 can now easily seat to 11:00.
  6. Repeat the same process now by using your left hand to hold at 11:00 (while pulling the wheel towards your waist), and your right hand pinches and works the tire from 5:30 back towards 3:00, and back up to 12:00. Again, you should feel that the section of tire that was only seated up to 2:00 can now easily get to 1:00
  7. From here on, you generally have so much of the tire on that the last section from 11:00 to 1:00 can just pop on with thumbs. But if not, repeat the process on one or both sides to pull just that little bit extra slack.

It’s really this process that makes all the difference in the world. I’ve had some funny moments where guys who have been riding for 20+ years, but just got deep channel tubeless compatible wheels struggle with flat changes. They’re cursing and breaking out the tire lever with 25% of the tire still unseated. I usually just grab the wheel from them, and in 30 seconds I have it on for them with no tools…just a wink and a smile.

THANK YOU. I’m going to try this tomorrow. I can picture how this is supposed to work.

11

GCN had a god video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvvXrlAUUfU
How To Fit Any Difficult-To-Fit Bike Tyre
The new tip that I took away from that was to seat the tire half way so it’s in the deepest part of the rim channel. By doing so, there is less pressure on the tire.

12

Last time I had this problem I went down to my LBS. Embarrassing when he took one look and simply flipped it on. Next time I tried, struggled for a wee while before it ‘plopped’ on. No idea why. Just hoping it’s a while before I have to remove/replace the tyre.

13

Watched that, and got nowhere.

14

If you’ve been putting in tires for years maybe something else is wrong?

Possible the wrong size tire?

15

Besides everything, which I already know. Thanks.

I recently bought a set of 2017 Reynolds Strike TLRs from the Classifieds. Great looking wheels, etc. Here’s the deal: I can’t, for the fucking life of me, get tires set up correctly on them. I’m trying to run them as clinchers.

First day I get them, try to throw the Conti 4000sIIs that were part of the deal on. Barely get the rear on, fronts won’t go. Rear has a huge bulge in it. Same deal after soapy water, overpressure, etc. Figure out that I had messed up the rim strip at one point and think it’s part of the issue. I replace with Silca tubeless rim tape. I also go with recommendations from others that Vittoria Corsa’s are an easier fit.

Well, here I am, blistered thumbs again, and about to frisbee the wheels. I get the thing about 75% on, go to use a tire lever to get the remainder on, and it just keeps popping the bead out further down the rim, leaving 25% off.

Yes, I’m trying to use the center channel. Yes, I’ve tried soapy water, stretching the tires on other rims, etc. No, I’m not selling them. Yet.

Looking for collective wisdom here, folks. I’ve about exhausted my brain on it. I want to race these in 2 weeks at CT 70.3–otherwise, I’m stuck with my stock wheels.

Just based on the fact that they’re tubeless-ready wheels, I’m about 90% confident that it’s an issue with the center channel (i.e. what some others have said - not getting both beads down in the center channel around the entire circumference of the wheel).

Other things that can complicate this are:
-Rim tape thickness and slickness (which can make it harder to get into the channel)
-Tire age (newer = tighter)
-Tire and wheel combo that happen to fit particularly tight (to me, the Conti 4000 S runs pretty average in terms of tightness).

I’ve seen this problem a LOT with new wheels. In fact, I stopped to help an older guy on a bike ride yesterday, with this exact issue. It was a fancy-pants loaded Madone with tubeless-ready Bontrager carbon clincher wheels (that have an internal TLR shape with raised bead shelf and dropped center channel). He didn’t push the beads down into the channel, and was 100% stuck.

That actually reminds me, I helped our own Herbert with this issue a few years back, and he made a quick article for the home page (including a couple videos): https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/When_you_are_doing_it_all_wrong_5258.html

The other X factor here is that I don’t have any experience with those exact wheels. I have run in to some tubeless-ready wheels in the past that fit insanely tight with any tire. Like, so tight you wouldn’t believe. One of these wheel sets ended up being delayed with their release to the public to fix the issue, and the other company went out of business. Point I’m making is that it is in the realm of possible that the rims fit really wonky. I borrowed some non-tubeless Reynolds wheels years back (58 / 72 combo), and the tires fit realllllllllllly loose. To the point where I was expecting the tires to blow off during inflation (they didn’t).

16

So, it appears that part of the issue is that the tire slides towards the outer bead during the mounting process. How on earth are you keeping it in the center channel?

I’ve dealt with some seriously frustrating bike issues before, but tires? Really? This is killing me.

These little quick clamps can help: https://www.irwin.com/tools/brands/quick-grip

Is this still with the Conti 4000’s? Or I think you mentioned some Vittorias at some point? Reason I ask is that if it’s Conti’s, that sounds like it’s probably an issue with the rim shape. Those tires are vulcanized and retain their shape pretty darn well, and shouldn’t cause that issue. With Vittorias and other handmande tires (which lay 100% flat in the packaging), I have seen your issue, where the tire is reluctant to hold shape and wants to flatten out again - pushing the tire beads up onto the bead shelf. Had this issue on some Hed rims with Vittoria and Challenge clinchers.

17

Crank brother’s speedier tire levers have worked for me where all else fails.

https://www.crankbrothers.com/products/speedier-lever

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbO_03rKyPk

18

Crank brother’s speedier tire levers have worked for me where all else fails.

https://www.crankbrothers.com/products/speedier-lever

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbO_03rKyPk

  • 1…Fantastic lever! You still need to get the tire down into the center channel, but this lever holds the tire in place while you do that. Another big plus is the design makes it virtually impossible to pinch your tube, which is a HUGE plus with latex. A bit bulky to pack, but well worth it!
19

Welp, did this whole routine this morning, and it got closer, but I’m still stuck with the last 10% or so refusing to budge. (Per Greg’s suggestion, I swapped out the Vittoria’s back to the Conti’s to see if they would hold the bead better.)

I’m just flummoxed and beyond disappointed at this point.

20

Finnish at the valve will make all the difference.
Also make sure the rim tape is very tight and sits right to the bottom of the wheel well.
Conti 4000 on the new Reynolds are a bitch.