I was doing HIM for a long time, solidly MOP. I took a break when the kids were young and now I’m back in. Right now I’m doing sprint tri and doing a little better than MOP. When the kids are a few years older then I’ll get back into HIM.
I’m pretty even in all three sports. In neighborhood sprint races I come out of the water in the top 10% with little effort, then pretty much stay in that spot for the rest of the race.
I’m riding a 2003 Cervelo P2K. Completely stock, including the wheels. It has been a fantastic bike.
Back in the day, I got a bike fit by John Cobb. I’m still the same size so the fit should be relatively good.
I just recently got a power meter.
This is what makes sense to me, what do you think?
I’m guessing that race wheels is the best way for me to buy speed.I would get a coach if I was confident they could build a better training plan than I could and if I was confident that I could select a good coach.I’m guessing a new bike isn’t really going to improve my speed, just the enjoyment factor.
Training first. Now that you’ve got a power meter, some structured bike training via power will help. Something like Trainerroad. Your motor is always the week spot.
A bike fit, helmet and well fitting race kit are the best bang for your buck when straight up buying speed. Wheels and a new frame would help, but not as much as you think and are much much much more expensive.
How’s your bike FTP? That’s generally the lowest hanging fruit.
Bike FTP is my focus right now. I’m still pretty new to the power meter but Garmin reports FTP as 225. I have not hit a good rest period yet to do a more accurate test.
Here’s my quick priority list for buying speed. This is roughly in priority order of performance impact per dollar.
Eliminate any bottles inside the triangle (if they are there)
Aero BTA hydration, if you do not already have itBTS hydration (gives you both the liquids and increases aero)
Fast tires Continental GP4K2 or GP5K and latex tubes
Aero helmet (assuming you do not already have a fast helmet)Tri Suit (assuming you do not already have a fast tri suit)Aero brakesNew front end (the stock P2 base bar is way out of date from current trick parts)Deep wheels (just jump straight into a rear disc & front 90mm)New bike (marginal performance gains, but massive joy factor)
Edit: forgot about fast tires & tubes. Huge mistake. Huge.
Here’s my quick priority list for buying speed. This is roughly in priority order of performance impact per dollar.
Eliminate any bottles inside the triangle (if they are there)
Aero BTA hydration, if you do not already have itBTS hydration (gives you both the liquids and increases aero)
Aero helmet (assuming you do not already have a fast helmet)Tri Suit (assuming you do not already have a fast tri suit)Aero brakesNew front end (the stock P2 base bar is way out of date from current trick parts)Deep wheels (just jump straight into a rear disc & front 90mm)New bike (marginal performance gains, but massive joy factor)
This is what makes sense to me, what do you think?
I’m guessing that race wheels is the best way for me to buy speed.
Cheap front wheel with an aeroish and wide aluminum rim (25+mm deep, 23+mm wide), and minimal (hopefully aero) spokes (no more than 20). Put a $100 Aerojacket on the back.
To know what to suggest, we need a complete rundown on what you are using now. Tires, tubes, bars, helmet, suit, etc. Some position photos and videos would also be helpful.
fast tires and latex?Doh! Great point. Don’t know how I forgot that one. It goes near the top, after buying the cheap hydration stuff. Editing original post…
Here’s my quick priority list for buying speed. This is roughly in priority order of performance impact per dollar.
Eliminate any bottles inside the triangle (if they are there)
Aero BTA hydration, if you do not already have itBTS hydration (gives you both the liquids and increases aero)
Fast tires Continental GP4K2 or GP5K and latex tubes
Aero helmet (assuming you do not already have a fast helmet)Tri Suit (assuming you do not already have a fast tri suit)Aero brakesNew front end (the stock P2 base bar is way out of date from current trick parts)Deep wheels (just jump straight into a rear disc & front 90mm)New bike (marginal performance gains, but massive joy factor)
** Edit: forgot about fast tires & tubes. Huge mistake. Huge.**
Skip the R disc wheel, and get a wheel cover.
$100 makes the wind think you’re riding a $1k-$2k+ wheel, and it will handle better due to spokes vs. solid construction.
(downside - you don’t get the WHOOMP WHOOMP noise)
New bike will not necessarily be any faster/more aero than your current steed.
I have a buddy who has the aluminum P3 - he got a pimped out, top of the line Felt bike a few years ago, and found that he was SLOWER on it.
He’s back riding that ancient Cervelo, and kicking ass on the bike again.
Don’t bother with BTS hydration, if you can avoid it.
Aero lid and upgrading the front end will go a LONG way for you.
Don’t bother with BTS hydration, if you can avoid it.Cervelo published some wind tunnel testing a while ago in which they found that a BTS improves aero. They said it smooths the airflow coming off the rider. I searched and cannot re-find that on their website. So, I run BTS on sprints with empty bottles.
Don’t bother with BTS hydration, if you can avoid it.Cervelo published some wind tunnel testing a while ago in which they found that a BTS improves aero. They said it smooths the airflow coming off the rider. I searched and cannot re-find that on their website. So, I run BTS on sprints with empty bottles.
BTS **done properly **can be a little more aero than without.
The VAST majority of triathletes do not do it properly.
You see 2 bottles sticking straight up into the wind, waiting to get ejected, and totally getting in the way when trying to mount/dismount.
I do BTA for sprints w/ a small empty bottle for aero purposes.
BTS done properly can be a little more aero than without.I wish the original PDF or article was still available. IIRC, Cervelo created a jig that could position the bottles in multiple ways relative to the rider. But, without pictures, what they did is kind of a mystery. They wrote that in general, bottles behind the saddle do not have a large penalty and may have a significant advantage. They did not measure a major difference in drag at 0 yaw from bottle position (high, low, near, or far). Keeping the overall configuration as narrow as possible is optimum and nearer to the rider extends benefits out to higher yaw angles.
I ride a 10 year old Cervelo P1 aluminum dinosaur. I’m old, but not too much of a slouch, and usually win my age group in local stuff. I’ve got the aero helmet, decent fitting tri clothes, BTS bottles at 45º, and even shave down before races. Last year I finally caved, and got a set of 50mm Roval carbon race wheels, and a set of 90mm Flo wheels. Between the carbon wheels, I’m not sure which are faster, but they kill the old Shimano aluminum stock rims that came on the bike. I’m old, and my engine isn’t getting any stronger (weaker if anything), but I was racing on the old rims hovering around 19-20mph depending on the course/distance. With the carbon rims, I haven’t been slower than 21 mph average in any race (sprint through HIM), and have averaged over 22 mph in some sprints. Judging by the way I pass my share of $5K carbon bike riding opponents, I have no desire for a new bike, and think I made a good choice putting my money into the wheels.
Speed? My neighbors can probably hook you up. I see people sometimes show up and leave with little plastic bags of something. Not sure if it’s cut with anything though, I don’t use the stuff.
Here’s my quick priority list for buying speed. This is roughly in priority order of performance impact per dollar.
Eliminate any bottles inside the triangle (if they are there)
Aero BTA hydration, if you do not already have itBTS hydration (gives you both the liquids and increases aero)
Fast tires Continental GP4K2 or GP5K and latex tubes
Aero helmet (assuming you do not already have a fast helmet)Tri Suit (assuming you do not already have a fast tri suit)Aero brakesNew front end (the stock P2 base bar is way out of date from current trick parts)Deep wheels (just jump straight into a rear disc & front 90mm)New bike (marginal performance gains, but massive joy factor)
Edit: forgot about fast tires & tubes. Huge mistake. Huge.
If eliminate any bottles inside the triangle (if they are there) is true then why don’t pro road cyclists do that? They certainly would have the bike handling ability to reach behind and pull one out of there.
Yours is a good list. Is your #1 the top priority ahead of helmet or fast tri suit? Thank you in advance for data/explanation.
If eliminate any bottles inside the triangle (if they are there) is true then why don’t pro road cyclists do that?UCI rules. Bottles are only allowed inside the triangle. Is your #1 the top priority ahead of helmet or fast tri suit? Thank you in advance for data/explanation.#1-#3 are kind of a package deal. And I rank them ahead ahead of helmet and tri suit because you need hydration anyway and they are relatively inexpensive with a strong up-side.
