Interesting quest - more importantly what is the 40k TT time you are aiming for and what is your plan to get there? Without a good plan and race execution, the bike might as well weigh 29lbs - as it won’t make much difference.
MR
Quote: "Have I run the numbers correctly? It seems that I have tried to compare Dura Ace cranks to various competitors and that the weights always come within a few grams of each other.
How much weight can you save by “getting rid of the heave DA cranks” and what do you substitute?
Art Franke
Yeah so FSA’s full crankset with rings is 555grams, Carbonlords cranks are 420gms (no rings) shimano rings 53/39 weigh 128gms so that’d be 548 gms, Shimano hollowtech DA crankset is 594gms (heavier and i bet their not as stiff).
50gms isnt a lot but they guy only wants to lose like 270gms anyway, so thats 20% of his weight loss right there.
I recently took off 6800 gms (15lbs) from my body, by eating more healthyfully, larger b.fasts and smaller dinners and drinking more water.
hey there check out these carbon bottle cages:
http://www.b-t-p.de/BTP-English/products/bottle-holders/bottle-holders.html
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The only weight numbers I have seen on FSA cranks say it weights 575 with rings. That is only 20 grams lighter than the Shimano spec. 20 grams out of 575 is within the misleading spec margin of exaggeration, uh, I mean margin of error.
I am not familiar with Carbonlord at all.
I do like the idea of losing 5000 or so grams out my midsection though.
Let me know if I am off on the numbers.
Fully loaded, race ready, including food, drink and engine, my bike weighs about 185 pounds. I had it down to 178 for IM last summer, so I’m going to spend some bucks upgrading the engine with new parts. A smaller Ti cereal bowl will shave 300 calories a day (that’s about 50 grams). A shorter beer stein (all carbon) will cut out another 150 calories. The big weight savings will come from shutting my mouth and riding.
shimano’s weights for dura ace include crank bolts, FSA’s weights do not … Shimano DA is the same weight as FSA Carbon Team, the DA BB is lighter than the FSA Ti ISIS BB too.
Thats why I race on DA, lightest and stiffest I’ve tried, those super light ISIS BB’s like Shook have failed me before.
Art: this is from the FSA website on the Carbon Pro Team Issue crankset, i think you were looking at the next step down, the Carbon Pro Road Racing:
"Patented Carbon composite crank arms One-piece crankarm/spider Precision CNC machined 7075/T6 chainrings, ramped and pinned for perfect shifting Shimano Octalink - 9 speed ISIS Drive – 9 or 10 speed 53/39 or 53/42 teeth 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm, 177.5mm or 180mm 130mm bolt circle diameter 7075 Torx T-30 alloy chainring bolts Q-Factor - 150mm Spindle – Octalink 103mm, Isis Drive 108mm Chainline - 43.5mm Weight – 555 grams "
Yeah im not familiar with carbonlord either, as in i’ve never tried their product, but it looks good, for what thats worth.
With my big fat (not fast) ass on the bike or off the bike?
carbonlord.com is a profile re-bag
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I have not weighed Samantha, but I wager sge’s in the 19-21 lbs range. The design and construction of the frame does not lend itself to light weight, just light for the design. She does not have any ultra-lightweight parts (save the Corima post that came standard, or the Sweet Wings cranks that still are in the 455 gram range- crank/bb spindle). I do pay attention to the weight of wheels, however, as I was running a custom TT/hill climb front (650gr), but now I have a Lew Sydney front (470 grams!!!). I don’t pay attention to my Renn disc, but it is definitely not as porky as it would seem. I have ridden wheels just as heavy to race on without the aero advantage of the Renn disc.
I imagine that I reduced the weight of the bike by a bit by getting rid of the front mech, shifter, cable, and tab by using the Bartol system. I also use C-Record non-Ergo brake levers (as they work better with the ITM Duals I use).
My recommendations- just don’t get “stupid light”. Back when I worked in a bike shop, we put together a 16 pound road bike for fun, then sold it to an (unsuspecting) client. He popped the Fibre Flight spokes, and could never get it to shift correctly.
You could use the EMS bars (okay for aerobars), cut them down (make into a cowhorn), use a mag stem, and then use the Deda Black magic bars, then it would lighten up the front end quite a bit. That could lighten you up over the Carbon X bars.
Bonafied Clydesdale here: for me flyweight bikes and components = DNF
I can & will break the lightweight stuff, no titainium axels no ultra lightweight wheels
My bike weighs in at 21pounds which is a little less than 10% of my body weight
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back many years ago, I had a “stupid” light race bike, was 15 pounds ready to race:
Old style Kestrel KM40 frame
no front derailleur or shifter, single chainring up front
Sampson Ti bottom bracket and crankset
Shimano 105 single pivot brake calibers
Scott Extreme bars
BMX style brake levers
A.R.R. thin aluminium/foam injected seat post
Sampson Ti pedals
Dura Ace rear derailleur
custom made (by me) Zipp 400 wheelset with Ti spokes, HiE high flange hubs, later trades for Zipp carbon hubs
I turned some of my fastest races on this bike, including a 62 minutes at Columbia and a 54 minute 40km at the State Championships for the win. Great set up for up to 40km, but after that, not all that comfy.
Current race bike is around 17 pounds with not a lot of attention paid to super light parts,
Merlin Ariel
all Dura Ace
Alien seat post
135gr saddle
Reynolds Ouza Pro Aero fork (carbon steerer)
Renn disk/HED CX
Speedplay X-2 pedals
and currently for sale (check the Slowtwitch classified)
Funny thing is, my regular training bike is lighter than my race bike. It is set up to be a mountain climber, around 16 pounds:
Schwinn Paramount Ti (made by Ben Serrotta for Schwinn)
all Dura Ace
Kestel EMS bars
Deda Newton Stem
Chris King Aheadset
Reynolds Ouza Pro fork (carbon steerer)
Alien seat post
Mavic Open Pro SUP rims/Dura Ace hubs
Speedplay X-2 pedals
Mike, saw a Caliente at Hi-Tech yesterday, man QR is making some nice bikes this year.
My Tri bike weighs 18.9lbs! Principia TT2light, Corima aero front wheel corima 4 spoke rear Syntace C2s - Duraace/ultegra Veloflex tubs Speedplay pedals
Calfee Tetra Tri, sub-15 w/ zipp 303s
See if you can find an old pair of Scott Extreme or 100K bars circa '94. The Extremes where what Greg Welch won Kona94 on and weigh 440g. I use these with diacomp bmx levers at 88g for the pair. I’ve purchased CarbonXs, and other setups but keep coming back to the Extremes. The 100ks are even less and should only installed for courses like the Northern California district TT course in Satley or Big Kahuna where its 100% aerobar time and no hills or turns. Years ago Nytro built a 14lb QR zero gravity (steel bike!) using the extremes.
Have fun with your pursuit. As been echoed above, it’s got to fit and get you to the finish line, but if those conditions are met and you’re having fun, knock yourself out. Check out: weightweenies.starbike.com for other weight saving tips.
Oh, and if you want to get really crazy, find an old pair of Aerolite Ti pedals. 85g for the pair. Tinely rode them for years.
Cheers
I’ve got the TT bike ready for the first race of the season 36.4 pounds with the bottles one it.
I can’t wait for the downhills.
I had to bag the Schwinn Ashtabula forged steel fork as I couldn’t get a headset/stem to work with it.
I’ve got a steel hooker fork up front now.
try these–Zero-Gravity Brakes: http://www.zerogravitybike.com/
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P3, DA10, Easton Attack bars, Aspide Trigel seat, Reynolds Stratus tubular, Reynolds Ouzo Aero Pro, x/2 = 17.5 lbs. An awesome bike! It looks super cool w/ the silver and black color scheme. BTW, whoever said “p3 frame and fork weigh 5+ pounds” hasn’t seen this bike.