Hi all,
I’m in the market to upgrade to some aero wheels. However, I am undecided between weight and aerodynamics.
Which one really matters more?
Also, is there a noticeable difference in rigidity between different wheels?
Thanks
Reliability matters most. Go for a brand with good warranty and reputation, if anything happens you want to be covered if you’re spending major $$$. After that, control. If you race a lot in coastal areas or other places where it’s windy, you want to be able to control your bike. If this is the case, don’t go too deep.
Now, weight vs aero. Do you prefer hilly races? Will you use these wheels for road races? Then go for weight. If you’re only using your wheels for Tri/TT then go for aero. If you have a big budget, you can get a good combination of both.
Rigidity can be an issue, some aero wheels are simply aluminium rims with a carbon or even plastic faring, which is usually cheaper and often less stiff as full carbon - they can still be very capable wheels though, if used occasionally. Some brands of aero wheels have a reputation for being flimsy like Cole, Vision and shallower versions of Zipps, this can be a problem if you intend on using them everyday.
Another thing to look at is the location of the spoke nipples. Some brands place them inside the rim, this can make them very difficult to access when servicing, making them hard to true or replace a spoke.
What’s your budget? As a starting point I’d recommend Enve, Hed, Reynolds, Campag/Fulcrum, Shimano or Williams. I don’t know much about Flo (haven’t got my hands on a set yet) but hearing good things about them too.
Hi all,
I’m in the market to upgrade to some aero wheels. However, I am undecided between weight and aerodynamics.
Which one really matters more?
Also, is there a noticeable difference in rigidity between different wheels?
Thanks
There are many factors that go into wheel choice*, but if the only decision is between aero and weight, then unless you are going up a very sleep hill a lot and/or it will be selective for your race, an aerodynamic wheel will almost always be faster, or require less energy, than a lighter somewhat less aero wheel in just about every circumstance. Even in acceleration scenarios an aero wheel wins the race.
Conditions will determine which type of aero wheel is suitable for you.
You can of course have both. It’s just a matter of how much you want to spend.
- e.g. race the wheels you can afford to crash
Unless you are racing straight up a hill, always ignore weight. Aero trumps all. I’d choose in this order.
- Tested aero numbers
- Cost
- Best wheel that performs at low yaw
- Build quality / longevity
- Looks
Unless you are racing straight up a hill, always ignore weight. Aero trumps all. I’d choose in this order.
- Tested aero numbers
- Cost
- Best wheel that performs at low yaw
- Build quality / longevity
- Looks
This is pretty solid
Now, weight vs aero. Do you prefer hilly races?
http://flocycling.blogspot.com/2014/01/flo-cycling-great-debate-aero-vs-weight.html
Will you use these wheels for road races? Then go for weight.
Why? Maybe if it is a road race with a steep selective climb but otherwise no.
I’m going to start this off by saying I am not disagreeing with you, and I am just curious how you have come to this conclusion?
Have you modeled a race with typical accelerations that a road race/crit would encounter and take into account the moment of inertias of different depth wheels? I think the inertial effect of deeper wheels would matter more than the incline. But I could very well be wrong.
Yes, in summary, when going from a lighter, less aero wheel to a heavier more aero wheel, the aerodynamic savings is greater than the losses due to inertia and mass even when accelerating.
Some resources -
Tom A breaks down the relative contributions of aero vs wheel weight: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Why_Wheel_Aerodynamics_Can_Outweigh_Wheel_Weight_and_Inertia_2106.html
Josh from Zipp weighs in at the bottom of this article:
http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Slowtwitch_Mailbag_-_4_3767.html
A spreadsheet I created where you can model the power requirement changes due to intertia and mass given various acceleration scenarios:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Agu_Y5SLfSFKdGh4V2NDZTFHQmRaNEMtUHNhZ0N2REE&usp=drive_web#gid=0
Have you modeled a race with typical accelerations that a road race/crit would encounter and take into account the moment of inertias of different depth wheels? I think the inertial effect of deeper wheels would matter more than the incline. But I could very well be wrong.
10-4
Rim inertia == within the noise
Aero wins again
Thanks for doing out the calcs. Saves me from doing it 
Another great resource is the “Criterium Corner Calculator.”
It also suggests aero trump, but shows that - at least for criteriums - weight is important enough that if two wheelsets are pretty much a wash aero-wise, to go for the lighter set.
Yep, when I put my spreadsheet together I did briefly…briefly…think about tubulars.
Then I had to pick glue off a set again
Another great resource is the “Criterium Corner Calculator.”
It also suggests aero trump, but shows that - at least for criteriums - weight is important enough that if two wheelsets are pretty much a wash aero-wise, to go for the lighter set.
Then I had to pick glue off a set again
I’ve found the secret.
A little Goo Gone and a pumice scouring stick. It’s pure magic. The pumice quickly wears down to become a perfect fit with the tire bed. And it doesn’t scratch the carbon.
I got an 808FC tubbie looking factory new in about 10 minutes. I mean literally factory new. The mechanic who I had glue the new tire on (I don’t trust myself with my own life) refused to believe it had ever been glued before.
Why? Because in a road race you’ll find yourself surging and accelerating much more often to cover attacks and make them yourself. You also have to control them in the bunch, not just by yourself.
Thanks all for the info. Very useful.
I have another question. When choosing a wheel, what is the biggest difference between say a 38mm and a 58mm?
Thanks again.
I have another question. When choosing a wheel, what is the biggest difference between say a 38mm and a 58mm?
.
Aero performance at higher yaw (with deeper wheels having a larger advantage at higher yaw angles), and crosswind sensitivity (with deeper wheels being more susceptible to being blown around). This is of course assuming you’re comparing wheels with overall similar designs, for example two v-shaped rims or two Zipp Firecrests, etc.
How well they accent the look of my bike.
The preceived cost of the wheels by the uneducated public
Cost to me.
In otherwords - the Bling Factor.
Should that have been in pink?
Jasco-Bix varnish remover. You wont need to scour or scrape at all. Just wipe off with a rag after letting it sit for 10 min. Like new. They sell it at Home Depot
Please see above where the inertia was quantified by 3 different people using physics.
Why? Because in a road race you’ll find yourself surging and accelerating much more often to cover attacks and make them yourself. You also have to control them in the bunch, not just by yourself.
i feel confident in saying that jackmott or tom a. will back this up, but minimal weight and quality of the brake track are the two most important factors in an aero wheelset.
in fact, since rim braking doesn’t really work, the ability to accept a disc rotor is up there.
I like wheels with really large diameter integrated discs.
i feel confident in saying that jackmott or tom a. will back this up, but minimal weight and quality of the brake track are the two most important factors in an aero wheelset.
in fact, since rim braking doesn’t really work, the ability to accept a disc rotor is up there.