I have never built a bike but would like to put together a road bike just to have something other than the tt bike to ride. I don’t know much about good brands or models (besides the newer Treks and Cervelos) and there are tons of brands I have never heard of when searching ebay. I’d like to build off a vintage frame set and want to spend no more than $300 for the frame set only. Any recommendations on solid brands/models to look for in that price range?
Thanks
I can’t help with the vintage dept. But, it is hard to beat my FM-098 build in the $400 range for frame.
Perhaps a Cannondale CAAD8, 9, or 10.
My first bike build project was a mid 90s lugged bianchi I built with sram stuff. I got the frameset for well under $300 on eBay. Amazing bike. Definitely look at some older steel, you will not be disappointed at all. I honestly don’t know why anyone who is riding a bike for fun and not to race rides anything but steel.
I’d say watch eBay and filter down to framed sets in your size in steel (or your chosen material) and just watch for a couple weeks. It took me a few weeks watching eBay and CL to find mine. There are cheap adapters to let you use integrated shifter/brakes on frames designed for downtube shifters and to run modern stems on threaded forks.
Just saw this near me, if my wife would let me I’d really like this one too. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/bik/4393639157.html
Thanks for the tips j. That clean look in your link is exactly what I’m looking for. In my mind, I want that clean vintage frame look with modern seat, wheels, bars, etc.
Will keep an eye out for steel.
This is what mine looks like. This is an old photo, post build, pre adjusting for fit. I’ve swapped the stem for a silver colored one which matches. Wish i had done white cables too. I have a thing for white cables, bar tape and saddles on all my bikes. I also wish i had done a no carbon build, but I’m not gonna ride without my quarq, so it would always have some carbon.
I’m selling a road bike I was building up Cannondale CAAD10
http://www.ebay.com/sch/blkperl/m.html?item=111318641449&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
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I did the very same thing you are thinking about doing, twice. The first time I bought a older road bike ('85) on Craigslist and the rest new online. I ended up spending twice what my “budget” was and got a bike that was no nicer than I had originally planned. Mainly because there was a lot I didn’t know about bikes at the time and I had to buy a lot of parts that I didn’t realize were required for compatibility purposes. I sold that bike shortly after building it because I didn’t like lt. I hated not having a road bike so it didn’t take long for me to get a new bike after selling that one. I tried the whole process again. bought all used on online and on craigslist. I built up a decent bike with 105 components for about $800. I don’t think I could have gone any cheaper than that, nor do I think I could do that again. With both builds I seriously regretted not just going out and buying a bike from a bike shop. for a couple hundred extra I could have a better frame, same or similar (new, not used) components, lifetime frame warranty, the satisfaction of purchasing locally, etc. All this was in the last 4 years to give you an idea of prices and how fast I moved on.
I just bought a mountain bike. This time I bought this one used, completely built. No regrets on the purchase. I honestly don’t think I will ever build up a frame again unless I’m building up a specific type for fun and cost isn’t an issue. I did gain a lot of experience, however. And tools. Now I just buy bikes completely used, disassemble them, rebuild all the components and reassemble. But I do that for fun and at least once a year on each bike anyways.
Building a bike is fun, but don’t expect to save much, if any money. I’ve read that the cheap Nashbar frames are cheap and of decent quality. Bothe the aluminum and the one with carbon seat stays. CAAD10 frames are incredible, but They are more in the $500-$700 range for one in good condition. if you go vintage, make sure that the rear dropout has a derailleur hanger or a derailleur thread, not one of those adapters that slip into the dropouts. Those are terrible. Also make sure the rear dropout is 130mm. Keep in mind the forks on vintage bikes usually have a 1" steerer tube. You may have difficulty finding a new fork which I’m sure you will want. Also if you switch to a threadless fork you’ll need a 1" threadless headset, which are also not common. If you really go vintage, bikes that 27 1/4 in tires aren’t typically compatible with newer caliper brakes.
I disagree a little bit with some of your points. This is just my experience, YMMV (and obviously does).
a adapter to go from 1 in threaded to 1 1/8 threadless is cheap and easily available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BICYCLE-QUILL-STEM-EXTENDER-ADAPTOR-TUBE-1-THREADED-to-1-1-8-THREADLESS-STEM-/380861832761?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58ad225e39
long reach calipers are available to fit the modern 700c wheels as well.
good point on 130 rear spacing, that is important to pay attention to.
I’d buy a frameset, with frame/fork and headset. they are just as available as a frame alone, and yes, much easier to make sure you have a fork and headset that works.
I’ve done a couple builds from a frame and sourcing parts from here, CL and eBay. the last one was a CX bike which I had for two years that I just sold for a little more money than it cost me to build. If you pick your parts right (including some good condition used parts), building yourself can be very affordable. My latest build was a budget TT bike that is a force/rival and RTC shifters 2011 Blue Triad EX with a really nice aerobar that was about $700 total.
Not too get off topic, but is the quill stem adapter with the threadless stem safer than just putting a quill stem on it? Asking because I’m rebuilding a steel bike with a “threaded” headset and I was thinking about doing the same thing, but then my lbs mechanic advised me not to use the adapter.
I’ve never considered them unsafe nor heard of them being unsafe. i just googled it, and it’s just a lot of people who don’t really know/wouldn’t know pontificating. I got the adapter because i already had a bar, and could not find a quill stem that would fit 31.8 bar. i think there were some that were either really expensive or had terrible angles (too much rise).
I’ve got a few thousand miles with my set up and no problems at all.
I disagree a little bit with some of your points. This is just my experience, YMMV (and obviously does).
a adapter to go from 1 in threaded to 1 1/8 threadless is cheap and easily available: http://www.ebay.com/…;hash=item58ad225e39
long reach calipers are available to fit the modern 700c wheels as well.
good point on 130 rear spacing, that is important to pay attention to.
I’d buy a frameset, with frame/fork and headset. they are just as available as a frame alone, and yes, much easier to make sure you have a fork and headset that works.
I was talking about the threadless headset for a threadless fork. If he is to get a carbon or aero fork most of the available options are threadless, so he would need a threadless headset. The steel threaded forks that typically come with vintage frames are very utilitarian and heavy, so I’m just assuming that he would want to replace it.
long reach calipers are an option, but, like the 1" threadless fork and headset, are an uncommon specialty item. That will just add to the cost when/if he decides to swap the frame to a newer one. I do agree with the frameset over the stand alone frame, especially if he can find a frameset like your Bianchi. what year is it?.
Not too get off topic, but is the quill stem adapter with the threadless stem safer than just putting a quill stem on it? Asking because I’m rebuilding a steel bike with a “threaded” headset and I was thinking about doing the same thing, but then my lbs mechanic advised me not to use the adapter.
If torqued to specification yes, it should be perfectly safe barring mechanical failure. the weakest connection is likely the quill, which you would have with both the quill stem and the adapter.
I guess I still disagree, I’ve found there are lots of options out there and very reasonably priced.
No idea why you’d want a carbon aero fork for a vintage steel bike, that just seems out of place (and probably wouldn’t have the rake the frame was designed for). My Cro-mo fork is perfect for me on the steel frame. but buying the frameset with all fork/headset really is easiest. when I bought mine, the threaded headset was cracked and a new one (Tange) was $20 (ebay has them even cheaper) at my LBS (seller covered this cost). ebay has plenty of 1 inch threadless for less than $20 too.
some used options were available, but ebay and google have long reach calipers in abundance, $50 for new i found is a couple seconds (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektro-R737-Long-Reach-Road-Caliper-Set-Silver-47-57mm-/151266946508?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2338366dcc). They were less for used on eBay. same as I paid for my last set of rival brakes.
This thread has made me realize I don’t know anything about bikes. Haha
My original plan was to just take the frame down to the lbs and have them help me pick components and put it together. Was hoping to be in under 1250 or so.
Any newer bikes have that vintage look in that price range?
http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-kona-honky-tonk-13-47733/
crap components though.
I did something similar with mine.
First - I found the cheapest groupset I could (which was a microshift gravel grinder groupset) and used stock wheels from my tri bike (Oval 327s - which are like $80 retail).
Then I started hunting for a frameset. My original intention was to get a cheap carbon frameset but I found a deal on a Nineteen aluminum framset and got that. Found some used bars, bought an Apex crankset on Chainlove, and some cables and bar tape and I was about ~$550 out the door (including what the existing prices would have been on pieces I already had - wheels, tires, tubes, cassette).
Here’s my bike - I’m happy with it:
so this thread has made me excited about some older steel again. Searching my size on eBay, I came across this pretty quickly: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Somec-Steel-Frameset-57cm-w-Chris-King-Headset-/321370293950?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item4ad32986be
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Orbit-Road-Bike-Frame-Set-58-cm-Pink-White-Reynolds-653-Steel-Race-/380877374570?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item58ae0f846a
the second has 126 rear spacing, but a good bike shop can widen that for you (or just wait for one with 130 spacing). with steel, you can literally just bend it wider.
Another issue I’m having is finding anything in my size. I’m 5 ft 6 and ride a 51cm Cervelo P1. Not sure what this translates to in other road bikes but most I’m finding are more in the 55cm plus range.
I’m actually the high bidder on this right now. Bid last night before all the tips on spacing and what not so not sure what this one has. Figure with 2 days left I won’t win it anyway.
Scroll down to the “Do you need to permanently spread your frame” section. I don’t think 126 will be a problem. Call a shop to ask them as well about bending and aligning.
http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
The bike seems nice enough. Trek isn’t my idea of vintage, but hey, it’s lugged steel.