Got a late 60’s early 70’s Atala record proffesional with phil wood hubs, arroyo rims and all early top line campi and suntour parts sweet blue n white combo nice. I would like to put my ultegra pedals on. Well the drive side came of fairly easy but the non drive side is like it is welded on and strips a little more every time I try to get of. Tried soaking with wd40 but no help. Any ideas. Believe it or not it is a fast bike and i would like to try to get the full potential out of it putting the pedals on. Okay maybe its the engine, any ideas? BTW saving all parts to be able to put back to all original for when it becomes a wall hanger which is about a year or two away.
Let’s start with a simple but obviuos and important question, just for the sake of establishing a starting point. You are turning it clockwise (when facing the pedal)? Since the drive side came off easy and is turned in the “normal” direction for loosening… I think I have that right, but don’t have a bike in front of me 
try some PB blaster, hit it some with a hammer, more PB blaseter, more hammer let it soak over night.
in the morning, try again!
Real stupid question … did you turn the pedal clockwise to loosen? The left side is left-hand threaded. As for authenticity, I don’t know of any Italian bikes that had Phil Wood parts and a mix of Campy and Suntour, so I suspect some parts have been replaced.
I’m going on the assumption that you know it’s reverse threaded, right? Sorry the the insulting question–just making sure…
If so, I’d spray on some PB Blaster from the auto parts store, let it soak overnight, and give it another go. If that doesn’t work, remove the cranks and put it in a vise. Also, make sure you’re using a decent pedal wrench–one that fits on tightly. The vise trick always works. Just cover the cranks w/a towel so it doesn’t get scratched.
I did try clockwise. I also tried a touch counter just to break seal. Now I have a stupid Q what is PB. I also let wd40 soak in overnight. I suspect you are right on the suntour derailuer and the hub. I think they thought they were upgrading the bike. I think they did with the Phil hubs and mafac Racer brakes not sure on the suntour derailuer sort of remember them as a bmx company more then anything else. the pedals are kyuokuto from japan dont know how good they are but I got one good one and one kinda stripped one now. I do have a vintage Record derailuer to put on for authenticity sake. Bike is nice all chrome lugged but the paint is scratched up a lil more then I would like. I thought about tearing apart and repainting original colors but d thought again and did not want to mess with the “essence” of the bike.
Hmm. Maybe some heat? Do you have one of those small propane plumbing torches?
PB Blaster
I did try clockwise. I also tried a touch counter just to break seal. Now I have a stupid Q what is PB. I also let wd40 soak in overnight. I suspect you are right on the suntour derailuer and the hub. I think they thought they were upgrading the bike. I think they did with the Phil hubs and mafac Racer brakes not sure on the suntour derailuer sort of remember them as a bmx company more then anything else. the pedals are kyuokuto from japan dont know how good they are but I got one good one and one kinda stripped one now. I do have a vintage Record derailuer to put on for authenticity sake. Bike is nice all chrome lugged but the paint is scratched up a lil more then I would like. I thought about tearing apart and repainting original colors but d thought again and did not want to mess with the “essence” of the bike.
I thought triing that but did not know if it would ruin the vintage stronglight cranks. I do have a small torch.
Dont torch it - you will only discolor the alu.
So…do you care about that old pedal?
#1 Over and back. Turn the wrench over the pedal and towards the back of the bike.
#2 Use a hair dryer or something similar to heat up the pedal and crank, then douse it in ice & water. Do that a few times and see if the contraction will break the corrosion lose. Get it as hot as you can.
Or - remove the pedal body from the axle. You can then weld a nut or lever to the axle - presuming it is steel. Or clamp on some vice grips for more leverage. It also often helps to take the crank off the bike and put it in a vice between wood blocks to be sure that you dont scar up the arm.
I have some stronglight parts off a PX10E
If it is that crank
And all else fails
You need it
Ect ect.
Thanks will keep in mind and thanks everyone else for ideas and help. I will tri again tommorow if I get time. On another note got my wheel builder disc cover on my rear fp60 today and my new carbon cockpit should be on my QRoo tommorow cain’t wait to tri it.
Three out of four machinists swear by kroil.
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Just as another question, is it 9/16"? If it’s 1/2" the Ultegra pedals won’t fit anyway, but I’m not sure what older components were.
My one Ultegra pedal fit on the drive side. So it should work on the other.