Hello,
I want to upgrade my bike (a 2014 speed concept 7). I’d like to upgrade the base bar (they put a very non - aero one on at the factory), but don’t really know a whole lot about bike parts and how they “fit.” I’ve been looking at the Profile Design “Azero,” mainly for its good looks and low price, as well as the Bontrager Race X Lite Bullhorn 31.8, because it’s manufactured for Trek bikes. Any thoughts? Is one “better,” or will pretty much any one “fit” the current stock aerobars?
Also looking at race wheels. I currently have the stock wheels on, and have thought of just putting a Hed 3 “tri spoke” in the back, combining a tri spoke rear with traditional fairing front, like Flo 60’s, or just going dual Flo 60’s. Could I get away with any of those options? Looking for anything that is a bit faster than stock, not too expensive, and looks good. Thanks!
+1 on the Profile Ozero. I had the regular non-UCI legal Ozero on my old Felt B16 and it was great. PD makes an Ozero TT (UCI compliant) and a non-UCI compliant one that is more wing shaped. Zipp also makes a nice bar and aero bar set-up that is really adjustable; a little more expensive but is nice. On my Plasma I am personally running a Profile Design Svet base bar with zipp risers and pads and bontrager aero bars.
Flo 60 is a decent deal if you can get one. Other options may be to look around the forums for a similar sized carbon wheel like a 404, hed jet 5, etc. If you want to go cheap you can just do a Flo 60 or similar front wheel and a wheel builder cover on your rear wheel.
Flo 60s or flo 60 front/flo disc rear are great options.
Don’t avoid the disc in the rear for fear of handling problems. Won’t be an issue.
Wheel covers are tricky with the speed concept but you can make them work if you don’t mind tinkering. If you would rather not deal with that, don’t get one =)
Have you already have been through a proper tri bike fit and have an aero helmet? Do you have a power meter? I seriously doubt that a more aero base bar setup will yield any measurable gains over the stock bar. Wheels will give some measurable speed increases but not as much as an optimized position and power meter. I do think new wheels would look pretty darn cool though. Looking cool has driven many bike decisions for me! Good luck
Here’s my limited expereince in time savings in a 70.3:
Power meter for pacing - 3 minutes on the bike, 3-8 minutes on the run.
Position 1-2 minutes
Disc or cover (20 seconds… since it was low yaw conditions)
Base bar… maytbe 10 seconds?
I know a guy that on my Trek SC 7.5 could ride ridden 24.9 to my 24.3mph average on 245 Watts average. (5’10" 155lbs). He probably only goes 0.1 mph faster on the latest and greatest Trek SC9 with disc wheel.
I do believe this forum is my new favorite place on the 'net. I’ve heard great things about the Flo wheels, but have heard they are pretty heavy- I’m not doing any tours de france anytime soon, but will they really be a detriment on a course with a few hills? I would expect even with added weight, they would perform better than the stock ones.
Has anyone experimented with replacing the brake levers? I like the ones that are sort of bent back on the 7.5 and 9 series. I’ve seen a lot that are similar, but not sure how they would work in terms of fit. Thanks!
Flo wheels are not that heavy. They’re not ENVE or Lightweights, but they’re comparable to Mavics and any other brand that cost 2-4 times as much. As you’ll read over and over on this forum, wheel weight doesn’t matter that much relative to aerodynamics. It’s a common misconception that lighter wheels are faster. Rather, aerodynamics matter much more over the course of a bike race or tri. Flo’s are terrific wheels and the best value out there, if you can actually get a set.
As an FYI, you can order the 7.5/9 cockpit for your 7.0. It’s quite pricey though.
I’ve read that disc covers don’t play nice with the SC seat stays but could be wrong.
Yes and yes. The cockpit upgrade is around $1000 so I went with the 7.5, and you get a lot better components as well so it’s a win win. The aerojacket did not fit in my frame. The duo trap was the issue
The aerojacket did not fit in my frame. The duo trap was the issue
By taping my aerojacket to the spokes on both sides (tape the cassette side first, then put half the holding pegs through and peel the drive side away from the rim allowing you to get tape into the non drive side and tape by the duotap) I made my aerojacket fit my base model powertap spoked wheel no problem.