Trying to adjust an Ultegra front derailleur, Dura-Ace shifters. On the small ring/big cog (inner most position) the chain rubs the inside of the FD. I have totally backed out the low limit screw which leaves a little slack on the cable so I assume the derailleur is totally banked against the inside stop and it’s still not far enough inside to clear the chain, it barely scrapes. The FD is bolted onto a bracket that’s bolted to the frame. The FD interfaces with the bracket on a curved surface which self-centers as you tighten it so there is no translational adjustment available in that axis, it always sets itself to the same location but allows you to adjust the height. Neither the derailleur nor the bracket are bent. 10 spd 12-25 rear, FSA 53/39 chainring. Is there anything I’m missing as to what affects the inner most position of the FD? Doing something wrong?
Yeah, it’s kinda the opposite of cross chaining. I think it’s parallel, I’ll check again more closely. FWIW, I have n FSA FD on another bike and the FD itself is wider than the Shimano giving it more clearance around teh chain but probably less responsiveness. I was just trying to make a comparison. but I’m sure plenty of people are able to get the Ultegra set up correctly.
I would loosen the cable. and start from sratch. It seems, based on your description, that the cable is too tight.
Thought about that but shifting to the small ring lets the cable out and the spring force moves the derailleur in the direction I need it to go and when I push the level all the way, I actually have slack in the cable. If I can’t figure something else out I’ll take your advice and start from scratch but it doesn’t make sense to me yet.
even though teh plate the fd screws nto is curved, it still has a little room for rotation. sounds like you need to rotate it toward the bike. alternately, are you sure you adjusted teh correct limits screw, and in the correct direction?
even though teh plate the fd screws nto is curved, it still has a little room for rotation. sounds like you need to rotate it toward the bike. alternately, are you sure you adjusted teh correct limits screw, and in the correct direction?
I think I adjusted the correct screw because as I turned it I could watch the threads of the cable moving and it moved until the cable had no more tension and then I was able to just take the screw out of the body so the limit screw was no longer involved, just spring and hard stop. Since the cable had no tension I could obviously take up the cable slack that’s only going to get me more throw at the other end.
Is it possible that the RD is set a little bit too close to the spokes so the chain is angled a bit in a way that scraped teh FD plate?
FYI, I’m trying to figure this out from work without my bike here so I can’t just go look at it which would make things easier!
put the screw back in and turn it until you see the deraileur moving the way you don’t want it to move.
adjusting the limit screw has no affect upon the cable tension. cable tension is set by pulling the cable. the limit screw simply set how far the cable tension will move the mechanism. up or dowm. you do need to take up the cable slack, it will not give more throw the other way, because the other limit screw will stop that, if not, adjust it.
In any case, it should be the screw closest to the seattube.
Mine, gets gunked up from sweat and tends to seize up on occasion. Then it need to be cleaned. If the cable is slack, see if you can push the der. with your fingers. Mine needs cleaning as I type.