I’m searching for new wheelset, So I’m not sure which type of wheelset should I go for? Tubular or Clincher? Give me your feedback about them and any recommend of good wheelset with reasonable price. I know Zipp is best wheelset but the price is too crazy.
You got to go in more depth about your racing and goals. The very short answer that many will disagree with but show no data to suppoet. 
Clincher - plenty fast, very user friendly, much better if you are going to use for both training and racing, or are going to change tires frequently.
Tubular - fastest possible due to being slightly lighter and having slightly faster tire choices. Look at AFM’s Crr testing on Bike tech review for data. Pay particular attention to tire width (narrower is faster for almost any wheel) and how available a tire is. Some of the fastest clinchers are discontinued or wider than optimal.
You’ll be hearing from Tom and Jack in a few minutes, just take the time to look at the actual data.
A preemptive Tom and Jack strike! Awesome…
I’m searching for new wheelset, So I’m not sure which type of wheelset should I go for? Tubular or Clincher? Give me your feedback about them and any recommend of good wheelset with reasonable price. I know Zipp is best wheelset but the price is too crazy.
Really!?
Really to which part? I think Zipp is in the discussion of best and certainly their top of the line products are pretty pricey
A preemptive Tom and Jack strike! Awesome…
styrrel wants the job of responding to the clincher/tubular posts
he can have that job.
Thanks, I forgot to mention whichever he chooses he should always use a rear disc or a rear with a disc cover
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Factor in what AFM learned about how much you have to glue a tubular for optimally low rolling resistance and consider what you’ll do if you flat. Makes a good clincher/latex tube look a whole lot better. And if you’re going to train on aluminum rims, you’ll have to change out brake pads (or you should) for race day unless you’re using aluminum rim tubulars (not likely these days).we
As for weight considerations, I thought Slowtwitch had officially declared that a red herring (not that I necessarily agree).
As for Zipps being the best … they’re certainly good. Heds are, in my opinion, as good and are generally a better value (though I haven’t priced their high-end wheels recently).
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“Factor in what AFM learned about how much you have to glue a tubular for optimally low rolling resistance dand consider what you’ll do if you flat.”
Thats where very user friendly and my asking what his goals were comes in. As far as weight being a red herring on slowtwitch, well we don’t ride in slowtwitchistan we ride in the real world. In the real world all else being equal a lighter bike is faster, period. The only debate is how much faster and under what conditions. If weight really didn’t matter we wouldn’t be so much slower on a hilly course vs a flat one.
Thats where very user friendly and my asking what his goals were comes in. As far as weight being a red herring on slowtwitch, well we don’t ride in slowtwitchistan we ride in the real world. In the real world all else being equal a lighter bike is faster, period. The only debate is how much faster and under what conditions. If weight really didn’t matter we wouldn’t be so much slower on a hilly course vs a flat one.
No argument from me, but we better duck and cover.
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Funny thing is I’m not really an avowed tubular or weight weenie. I think most people should be riding clinchers and most people should pay as much attention as possible to reducing CdA, without compromising on power . I just don’t understand how low weight came to be a bad thing on ST, to the point where on a recent thread a guy asked if its really true that if he lost 75 pounds he would be no faster, and of course how if you use tubulars, which have probably won about 99% of all pro cycling and triathlon races in history, you’ll be at some huge disadvantage.
I have the Planet-X 82/101 tubies. My first tubies. Best bang for buck (<$600) but no new tech. Non-toroidal, spoke nipples exposed, bent pull spokes vs. straight. I race and do some training on them. The ride quality, for me, was much more sharp than my Aksiums, but in fast descents with a little yaw on 10-15+wind I get scared. As a budget guy I am very happy with em’. …and they sound pretty cool. Looking at a disk cover for the rear next spring.
One other thing, if you choose clinchers go for one with an aluminum brake track. Budget all carbon clinchers don’t have the best track record for the rims not over heating and deforming.
Yea, my tubulars stink like a truck with bad breaks after a strong descent (cork rub-off?) Not something I was used tol. They get hot, BUT! Not much in the UK forums (that I know of) showing catastrophic failure related to the brake surface. PX has amazing customer service and pretty good warranties.
I really can’t speak to which mid to lower price all C clinchers have issues, but their have been many reported. Seeing as its likely to happen when going fast down a long twisty desent, it probably is a reasonable warning.
Agreed, but “likely?” Anyone have stories of carbon wheels (tubular or clincher) that had a brake wear related failure? Maybe I’m just lucky,… and cheep.
**Actually, a rear disc WITH a disc cover HAS to be the fastest rear wheel ever. **
Never said likely, I’ve also never heard of an issue with tubulars. L Zinn on Velonews did a test of the Zipp FC and mentioned that they were the only all C clinchers that didn’t have issues on his standard downhill testing. Keep in mind he lives in Colorado (I think) and is 6 foot 6in or so.
Nevermind, did a quick search. Seems like the issues are with no-name, no easy return type of wheels, Chinese, etc.?
I had a rear failure on a set of 38 CCs on a long descent that was part of a neutral roll out for the start of a race. Because of this everyone is going slow and if you have the wrong pads on and carbon clinchers you run into trouble. Looks like every year the guys with failures are running swiss stop yellows. I was fortunate enough to have a set on my ride and the rear pad melted and brake surface delaminated.
http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss41/stalkan/bd738583.jpg
Had I not been stuck in a slow pack I doubt there would have been any issues. I have since moved on from yellows and have had no issues.