I have a buddy who has been riding tufos on his race wheels. It’s funny that he’s been experiencing good training rides but his race performance has been lackluster, notwithstanding good race wheels that have each been recently re-hubbed. It’s gotta be the tufos.
So, he’s in the market for new tubulars and we’re trying to decide which ones. I recall that I’ve seen a chart of tire comparisons that I think was provided by Tom A. Does anyone have that chart? I sure would appreciate it.
Go to biketechreview.com
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Remember, have to balance Crr (speed) with durability as well. Those Tufos may test ‘slow’, but they sure last a long time! (a double whammy).
Easiest and most readily available rec would be the new 320 tpi Vittoria Evo Corsa CX for a good mix of durability/puncture resistance, handling and rolling resistance. Others, go one way or another (i.e. the faster Veloflex Records). Or, if he running Zipp rims, might as well get the Zipp Tangents (basically dimpled Vittoria Corsas).
I have a buddy who has been riding tufos on his race wheels. It’s funny that he’s been experiencing good training rides but his race performance has been lackluster, notwithstanding good race wheels that have each been recently re-hubbed. It’s gotta be the tufos.
So, he’s in the market for new tubulars and we’re trying to decide which ones. I recall that I’ve seen a chart of tire comparisons that I think was provided by Tom A. Does anyone have that chart? I sure would appreciate it.
Need more info to recommend a particular tire…what’s the rider’s “flat plan” and “flat aversion” for his races? (I’m assuming triathlons, right?)
But yeah…look for AFM’s chart at the website listed above. There are PLENTY of higher performing tubulars available to your “buddy” 
edit: BTW, I know somebody who bought a brand new Hed Stinger 9 front wheel and had a Tufo mounted on it. He took it out for a workout to try it…and later commented to me that it seemed “slow” based on speed vs. power. Go figure …
Thanks for all the responses. Since he doesn’t post on ST, I’ll have to answer on his behalf. I’d say his “flat aversion” would be about medium-to-low. IOW, I think he would give up some durability for speed, but not give it alll up. I don’t really know how to respond because I don’t know “compared to what.” If I were him, then I’d like to get 6 - 8 completed races out of the tire to be content. Where does that put me? He’s faster than me; so, he has more to lose by being slow.
Thanks for all the responses. Since he doesn’t post on ST, I’ll have to answer on his behalf. I’d say his “flat aversion” would be about medium-to-low. IOW, I think he would give up some durability for speed, but not give it alll up. I don’t really know how to respond because I don’t know “compared to what.” If I were him, then I’d like to get 6 - 8 completed races out of the tire to be content. Where does that put me? He’s faster than me; so, he has more to lose by being slow.
It’s tough to go wrong with the suggestion above of the Vittorias (although I prefer the smooth-treaded KS models over the CXs). Alternatively, and these are really just “variations on the theme” since they are also manufactured by Vittoria, but the Bontrager RXL Pro tubular and the Specialized S-Works tubular also are mighty fast.
Also, don’t succumb to the typical error of pumping the tubulars up too high “just because you can”. Follow the Vittoria inflation recommendations (even for non-Vittoria tires IMHO).
Don’t forget, tires have to be glued very well to get the CRR values that you see. If you are not gluing the tires yourself you really need to stress to your local shop that the tires and rims need a couple of coats of glue. I have seen some bad glue jobs done by local shops.
Don’t forget, tires have to be glued very well to get the CRR values that you see. If you are not gluing the tires yourself you really need to stress to your local shop that the tires and rims need a couple of coats of glue. I have seen some bad glue jobs done by local shops.
That’s partly why I asked about the “flat plan”…if they’re glued on tightly, don’t plan on changing a tire out on the side of the road. Instead, pack a can (or two) of PitStop or the like…
Tom could you be so kind to direct me to the Vittoria Inflation chart - I´ve searched this forum and Vittorias homepage so far with no luck.
Tom or anyone, you mentioned the pit stop, how do you get that into a tubular on a disk? Not being sarcastic but I need a crack pipe to get air in so I wonder how the pit stop would work, thanks.
Tom could you be so kind to direct me to the Vittoria Inflation chart - I´ve searched this forum and Vittorias homepage so far with no luck.
Actually, I was thinking of the chart Zipp publishes (the Tangentes are made by Vittoria for them):
Tom or anyone, you mentioned the pit stop, how do you get that into a tubular on a disk? Not being sarcastic but I need a crack pipe to get air in so I wonder how the pit stop would work, thanks.
With the PitStop product, you’d probably need to use a crack pipe, which might be problematic. However, Hutchinson makes a similar product call “Fast’Air” that has a small hose attached to the cannister that might work better with a disk.
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/HUTFZSAF
