I am in the process of cleaning up a pair of Fulcrum Racing 1 tubular rims, and the old glue is quite a pain to remove. Any tips on what to use to get it off?
3M All Purpose Adhesive Remover. Hint-you probably want to use it outside, it is a little intense.
Can’t speak as to whether this is better than the 3M solution, but this one is carbon safe should you ever need (I know fulcrums aren’t carbon, but whatever)
Anyways, take a bottle of goo-gone, a cheap paint brush, and a truing stand. Put the wheel in the truing stand, and slop on 3 huge coats of the goo-gone, each about 5 min apart. Then come back in 30 minutes, scrub/remove whatever you can using a rag (or a scotch brite pad if you’re feeling brave, but be careful), and repeat til you achieve a clean rim.
Have fun!
Can’t speak as to whether this is better than the 3M solution, but this one is carbon safe should you ever need (I know fulcrums aren’t carbon, but whatever)
Anyways, take a bottle of goo-gone, a cheap paint brush, and a truing stand. Put the wheel in the truing stand, and slop on 3 huge coats of the goo-gone, each about 5 min apart. Then come back in 30 minutes, scrub/remove whatever you can using a rag (or a scotch brite pad if you’re feeling brave, but be careful), and repeat til you achieve a clean rim.
Have fun!
I’ve tried both and Goo Gone works best. And, you can use it indoors. Acetone based removers don’t work as well as Goo Gone.
They’re practically the same thing, but I’ve found that Goof Off works better than Goo Gone.
I find that whether we are talking metal or carbon rims, Xylene is relatively cheap and works like nothing else. I purchase a 1 gallon can at Home Depot and it looens the glue easily and quickly.
Safe for carbon rims as well.
but I’ve found that Goof Off works better than Goo Gone.
On a previous thread some people stated that one was good but the other was a not and should not be used. I can’t remember which and the reason why…sorry.
Found one thread http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=2226910;search_string=goo%20gone;#2226910
so you would recommend that over goof off and it is safe on carbon??? Thanks…
Are there any less harmful/environmentally sound but equally effective ways to glue and remove glue from tubies? I have a problem with both the toxicity of the glue and the chemicals to remove. (note, I’m aware that triathlon in and of itself is not an environmentally sound activity, let’s not hijack the thread any more that I already have!)
Ever hear of “tubular thumb”? It generally comes along for the ride regardless of whatever cleaning solution you use, but basically it’s the sore/raw thumb you get from rubbing the glue off. 
Generally the less toxic the material, the less effective it is. It kind of sucks, but that’s how I’ve generally found it.
Tape and Residue Remover (TARR) from 3M; non toxic - put it on, let sit for 30 min. or so and wipe off
will not harm substrates - look up MSDS at 3M.com
call 1-800-3M-HELPS (1-800-364-3577) for a local distributor
ps I work for 3M Aerospace
A heat gun works well on aluminium rims, just heat until the glue starts to soften and rub or scrape off leaving a nice base layer. If you want it down to bare metal chemicals take the last bit off quickly.
If there are stickers on the rim you might want to watch the heat to avoid losing them.
If it is an aluminum rim use Clean Streak…it a a bicycle cleaning product. It works very well and cleans fast.
I’ve had good luck with a really messy rim that used tape+glue by using gel furniture stripper and letting it sit for a day. It took two applications, but the wheels were very messy and it took them right down to bare metal.
Wow, goof off softens the glue… but what a mess!!! don’t do it in the living room while watch tv…
A heat gun works well on aluminium rims, just heat until the glue starts to soften and rub or scrape off leaving a nice base layer. If you want it down to bare metal chemicals take the last bit off quickly.
If there are stickers on the rim you might want to watch the heat to avoid losing them.
That’s an excellent suggestion…and, unfortunately, it also points out the “weakness” of tubular gluing when tire/rim temps are elevated either by ambient conditions or large amounts of braking!
That’s an excellent suggestion…and, unfortunately, it also points out the “weakness” of tubular gluing when tire/rim temps are elevated either by ambient conditions or large amounts of braking!
You mean something like doing the Beloki?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr89ku-K2WU
Not such a big issue on the track or colder climates, but something to be aware of in addition to excessive water/mud causing issues in cyclocross where there is not enough air pressure to help. On the plus side it does allow a chance for rebonding after putting on a spare or if the bond was partially broken. There may be a cause for a better glue than that is less environmentally sensitive (Fastak?).
I have a memory of some company working on a mechanical bond for tubulars to backup the glue about 20 years ago (something like a center channel with an interlocking ridge on the tire - kind of like a Tufo clincher with only a center bead). I suspect the improvements in clinchers have taken the market away for that. It looks like the new Hed wheels have a deeper tire seating which would help compared to the shallow radius mounting bed on so many of the older tubular rims.
Wow, goof off softens the glue… but what a mess!!! don’t do it in the living room while watch tv…
So after the goof off softens the glue, you just start rubbing it with your thumb?
“Lynol” (from your user name I guess you know this product) will do the job. (Not very healthy or environmennt friendly).
If there is only a thin layer of old glue, I just leave it on. A thin layer of new glue will partly “melt” the old one and secure the glue and tire to the rim.