Yeah the bars may have slipped down a little. The Look stem is hard to keep tight. The position is for IM racing so good to hear it looks ok in that regard. Would go more aggressive if was a full time roadie.
Yes, my experience with a LOOK ergostem is that it takes a VERY high torque (as specified by LOOK - something like 100 N-m IIRC…but I may be wrong) to tighten those stem bolts properly. You aren’t going to be able to achieve that sort of torque with a typical hex key wrench…a proper torque wrench and hex bit are in order for that.
I know this could open a whole new can or worms but Tom A. what tubs would you recommend? Know that the Podium on front isnt great, but the rear GP 400 would be solid enough.
Well…the main issue with the Continental tubulars from a speed standpoint is that you’re automatically “hamstrung” with the butyl tubes inside of them. A given tubular tire with a latex tube inside can be ~10-15% lower Crr.
Secondly, what’s your “flat plan” for the IM? If it’s to take along a spare, then that means you won’t be gluing them as “tight” as is required for getting maximum speed out of them. This point alone is really why I wouldn’t recommend tubulars for a long course triathlete.
In any case, since you already have the tubular wheels, I’d recommend finding a tire with a latex tube sewn up inside that has a high TPI casing and some measure of “durability”. The Bontrager RXLPro and the Specialized S-Works Mondo tires are good candidates.
The TT itself went well finished 22nd in feild of about 100, 40secs down on winner, a full time roadie.
Just making the tire change above would’ve “saved” you ~15-20W of needed power just for overcoming extra rolling resistance by my rough calcs. That would have made you ~1.5 to 2 seconds per km faster (all else being equal)…or, over even such a short TT as 4 miles, ~10-13s faster. How far up the standings would that have placed you?
But…that’s assuming your tubulars are “glued tight” and your “flat plan” is just a can of sealant. If not, then you wouldn’t see as much savings…and again emphasizes why clincher construction is more appropriate for the long-course triathlete since they can easily get an “optimum” setup and still be able to change a tube on race day if required. Just my 2 centavos 