Tri v's full on time trial position + ohter ways to drop tt time

I did an open 10mile TT last week which had quite a strong field. I finished 1min 50 behind the winner. I think I have a reasonable position (I go a reasonable pace for not a huge amount of watts), but it is no where near as extreme as some of the time trialling guys. A few seemed go for the very narrow approach whilst others where really low with there heads very low. It would be interesting what of time savings could be gained (if any) by changing to a full on TT position over a Tri position -

My current position:

http://antbliss.thirdlight.com/viewpicture.tlx?gsearchid=1187392236&pictureid=4276235

The other noticable thing about the top guys is most looked like they good do with a good meal in side them :wink: . So maybe I could drop a few KG’s

I am guessing to drop almost 2mins even with a more slippery position would require a fair amount more watts. Equipent wise I guess I am pretty much maxed out (P2k Zipp 999, old Hed one piece), maybe a P3C may help slightly. I was about 20watts off my best for a 10 this year, averaging just over 280 compaired to 300+ for some of my rides - I am guessing I would need around 380? This would be almost 80watts more than my best for the year - I suspect this kind of increase is prbably out of my reach.

What was your time?

I did an open 10mile TT last week which had quite a strong field. I finished 1min 50 behind the winner. I think I have a reasonable position (I go a reasonable pace for not a huge amount of watts), but it is no where near as extreme as some of the time trialling guys. A few seemed go for the very narrow approach whilst others where really low with there heads very low. It would be interesting what of time savings could be gained (if any) by changing to a full on TT position over a Tri position -
My current position:
http://antbliss.thirdlight.com/viewpicture.tlx?gsearchid=1187392236&pictureid=4276235
The other noticable thing about the top guys is most looked like they good do with a good meal in side them :wink: . So maybe I could drop a few KG’s
I am guessing to drop almost 2mins even with a more slippery position would require a fair amount more watts. Equipent wise I guess I am pretty much maxed out (P2k Zipp 999, old Hed one piece), maybe a P3C may help slightly. I was about 20watts off my best for a 10 this year, averaging just over 280 compaired to 300+ for some of my rides - I am guessing I would need around 380? This would be almost 80watts more than my best for the year - I suspect this kind of increase is prbably out of my reach.

How good was the competition? I averaged about 280 watts on a 9 mile TT last week and came in second to last.

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In the TT’s I’ve done the dedicated roadie TT’ers seem to be all over the map position wise. They do often seem to run slack, narrow and low I’ve noticed, but not all of them. They don’t seem to have developed a “formula” the way triathletes have with FIST for example, so there is a lot of variation in how they ride. You can try going more extreme, but give it up if you get comfort issues as this will affect your performance.

My best performance was 4th in the over 50 yrs AG at a major TT. Although that sounds reasonable, consider that the winner of my division was something like seven minutes ahead of me over 40 kms. Damn, some of those roadies are fast.

http://antbliss.thirdlight.com/...mp;pictureid=4276235

The other noticable thing about the top guys is most looked like they good do with a good meal in side them :wink: . So maybe I could drop a few KG’s

This would probably yield you the biggest change in your results. As long as you don’t lose power also

If you are in the US, the rules are changing next year in USA Cycling sanctioned events - they will be following the UCI 5cm rule - which will put a lot of people further back!

4 ways to get you faster:

  1. Position. In the photo you look pretty good but do you have a side-on view? Could you take one on a trainer? The fact that you say you’re going fast on modest watts indicates your position is probably pretty good.

  2. Equipment. As you say, you’re doing pretty well in this department. Wheels, bars, helmet and trisuit are good. P3C would arguably make you a touch faster, but as long as you’re getting a good position on your P2K, the difference is going to be marginal.

  3. Bodyweight. How much do you weigh? Of course this will only make a significant difference on hilly or technical courses where there are decelerations/accelerations, but it might make some small differences to your frontal area as well.

  4. Engine. This is where I see your greatest potential for improvement. I don’t know what you weigh, but 280-300W for a 10 is, as you say, pretty modest. I suspect you can get more out of yourself here with the right training. Increase your bike hours. Ride a hard L4 session every week. Ride a lot in your TT/Tri position.

What power meter are you using? What time did you go in your 10 at 280W?

What was your time?

21:55 - the winner clocked 20:05

How good was the competition? I averaged about 280 watts on a 9 mile TT last week and came in second to last.

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There were about 5 or so riders who have ridden sub 20min 10’s and another 6 or more sub 20:30 guys. I think 4th place finished 7th in the National 10 champs. One of the top guys was Sean Yates’s brother who obviously has shared some of his cycling genes. I finished in 20th place with a 21:55 - 1min 50 behind the winner. I think if i had ridden to my best power of the season (just going on riders i have beaten or often place about the same as) I might have got in around 21:30-21:40.

  1. Bodyweight. How much do you weigh?

What power meter are you using? What time did you go in your 10 at 280W?

I haven’t weighed myself on accurate scales for a while but I am generally around 68-70kg (I am about 5ft 7). I have abit of spread across my middle just so i cannot show off with a six pack :wink: but not much fat anywhere else.

I am using an Ergomo an as mentioned about rode a 21:55. I have roden 10 watts more on an evening race on the same course but on a slower day and was about 10sec slower.

I was about 20watts off my best for a 10 this year, averaging just over 280 compaired to 300+ for some of my rides - I am guessing I would need around 380? This would be almost 80watts more than my best for the year - I suspect this kind of increase is prbably out of my reach.

Our average new user will increase their power about 40% in 6-9 months (if they use them exclusively in training). For you to get to 380 watts you only need to see a 25% increase. Going faster is mostly about getting a better engine, especially once you have reasonable aerodynamics.

Anyhow, even if you think the claim outrageous, what are you afraid of? We give a 3 month moneyback guarantee. If you don’t see the improvements coming just send them back (you don’thave to wait the entire 3 months if you don’t want to) and it will have cost you very little

Frank you say approx 40% in 6 - 9 months. How much would you estimate in the first 3 months

Thanks

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Frank you say approx 40% in 6 - 9 months. How much would you estimate in the first 3 months

Thanks

Depends on the distance. If we are talking relatively short efforts I would guess most are seeing 20-25% increases in three months. Now, I don’t think most of our customers actually see that much because most don’t use the cranks exclusively. But, for those that do I think those numbers are reasonable to state, on average. The two studies that we know about showed about 10% increases in 6 weeks so we certainly should be seeing more than that in 3 months in almost everyone.

Hi Frank, Actually Pre-Ergomo I did spend a couple of seasons Time trialling on PC’s (I don’t know if you remember I was the rider who did the tests on the Lode Erometer in the UK).

Hi Frank, Actually Pre-Ergomo I did spend a couple of seasons Time trialling on PC’s (I don’t know if you remember I was the rider who did the tests on the Lode Erometer in the UK).

Are you off them now? People will tend to lose what they have gained, albeit slowly and probably not all of it, when they go back to regular cranks. So, if you are off them you should get back on. Even if you did get back on them, of course, you aren’t going to to see the changes you saw initially again so you will probably have to be content getting further faster the old fashioned way, more hard work and lots of time.