A $5k bike with mechanical ultegra and hydraulic disc brakes and a set of nice, wide rims
…is something that one literally cannot purchase new.
The latest 11 speed mechanical groups
…were designed close to a decade ago, and released in 2016/2017.
I do get it. I spend most of my riding time on a bike with 10 speed DA. No brakes at all on that one, because it lives on the trainer. I actually have an 11 speed Ultegra mechanical shift/hydro disc group on my road bike. It’s great. But the bike frame was designed in the same time frame as the groupset, as one might expect. This means I can maybe fit a set of 28 section tires in there, if they aren’t too tall. And that’s with a frame that was pretty generously spaced for the late teens, when it was produced.
So, no; you can’t actually suggest that the OP look for a bike with “the latest” 11 speed Ultegra. You need to append…
She needs to look for a groupset that isn’t offered on any new bikes, so forget getting any help from the IBD, or finding something off the shelf.
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Frames that were offered for sale with those 11 speed groupsets originally almost certainly won’t accept the tire sizes she’s hoping to run, so she needs to look for a frame that’s probably a couple of years younger than the groupset.
Those “nice, wide rims” are, realistically, a generation younger than the frame, so will definitely want to keep an eye out there as well.
All this being the case, my only issue with Slowman’s suggesting electronic shifting is that it’s essentially a fait accompli on contemporary road bikes. There ain’t no more mechanical Ultegra, and likely won’t be again. If someone wants a bike that does all the things a contemporary road bike does, they should probably just buy a contemporary road bike. Or a bike that was built closer to the start of the previous century, but that’s another topic entirely.
I feel like this has turned a bit into of a debate about the virtues of electronic shifting and hydraulic brakes. In part that is because it is almost impossible to get a high end or even mid tier bike these days that doesn’t have these features. My take - they absolutely perform better, but the result isn’t that significant in terms of performance or fun had. Regardless, to me, it is completely inappropriate to buy a $5k bike when you are just starting. I was fortunate to receive very good advice when I was just getting started: “You are buying your first road bike, not your last road bike.” I didn’t need to get the bike that checked all of my boxes because I didn’t have enough experience to even know what boxes I wanted to have checked!
Primarily, I am concerned with you locking into a frame based on a preliminary evaluation of your geometry with minimal road experience. When I first started, I had a professional fit done and it was correct for me at the time. My saddle height is essentially the same, but that is almost all that didn’t change as I became more experienced and adapted a more aggressive position. Handlebars got narrower, reach went much further, stack height decreased considerably. If you have a similar progression, the Caledonia with its high stack simply may not work. I hate to even suggest it because I am sure I will be called a Luddite, but… The same shop you visited has a Giant Contend 3 for less than $900. Aluminum frame, rim brake, Shimano Claris 8 speed, aluminum fork. Profoundly not sexy characteristics. But, it has room for 700x30c tires officially, it has a threaded bottom bracket (thank god), and it will allow you to change from a 90mm stem to a 130mm stem, 44cm handlebar to 36cm handlebar without doing anything more than undoing the bar wrap. If you want to spend more, go to Eurobikeparts and get 7000 series 105 for $400, and get a power meter. In 12 months (or 6 months since you live in an endless summer) you will have a much better grasp on your fit, what type of riding you want to do, and what features are important to you. Then you can blow the rest of your budget on a new bike (and keep the Contend on hand for trainer duty).
I appreciate your candid pragmatism. I do tend to have the mindset of buying quality so it will last, as well as something that I can grow into. As someone who’s no longer a 20 something but instead approaching something that starts with a 5, it’s quite likely that whatever I decide on will probably be the last “race†bike I buy, so finding that sweet spot of modern with some bells n whistles without being over the top is what I am aiming for. Space is also a consideration, so getting something with the intent to keep it as a backup if/when I upgrade is highly unlikely. All that said, I’ll definitely check the Giant out the next time I’m over there. I’m also thinking about renting a road bike for a couple of days just to see how things feel in general. I recognize they’re all a bit different (hence why I’m even asking the question!), but I think that will give me a better idea of what components I like/don’t like.
That being said, many thanks to all who have piped in. You’ve given me a lot to think about, as well as a fe chuckles on the back n forth banter. Think happy thoughts and be safe out there! As we say in the motorcycle community, shiny side up:-)
it’s quite likely that whatever I decide on will probably be the last “race†bike I buy
This exact phrase has been uttered to many slowtwitch spouses, and rarely is it true. I am on bike/frameset purchase #3 this year. Each one was going to be my last of the year. To be fair, they were each for different disciplines, and it is a buyer’s market!
I’m just here to reiterate electronic shifting. We no longer allow mechanically shifted bikes in our house.
Reasons:
Ease of maintenanceEase of maintenanceEase of maintenanceIt shifts faster, smoother, and more reliably. Is truly a joy to ride.Lower human effort of shifting. You don’t realize how much energy a shift takes while going hard, until you no longer have to spend that energy.Ease of tuning to accurate shifting. Can be done while riding.
The bottom 3 are luxuries, which I love. The top 3 are why I’ve outlawed mechanically shifted bikes in our stable. (We have 6 for 3 people).
I have never heard of anyone wishing they’d gone mechanical after owning electronic. I’ve heard countless people who have both kinds of bikes kick themselves for not splurging on their one mechanical bike to have gotten electronic.
That said, if you find replacing cables and housing once or twice a year to be a cathartic experience more enjoyable than actually riding your bike, by all means, get mechanical!
Haha. Well, I would be the one generally trying to keep “stuff†to a minimum in our house. We live on a boat, which means bikes live in a storage unit a mile or so away (it’s amazing how much corrosion will happen in only a week or two!). Mike has two bikes, I have one, plus my trusty LeMonde trainer that lives on the back deck (that thing is a BEAST!). I’m already fretting over juggling a road bike for me in the storage unit; the idea of buying something just to store it or try to sell it just isn’t my style. My goal is to find something that might not be perfect, but is perfect enough. And there have been enough folks raving about electronic shifting that I at least have to test ride one so I at least know what I am missing. Stay tuned!
if you find replacing cables and housing once or twice a year to be a cathartic experience more enjoyable than actually riding your bike, by all means, get mechanical!
Is this really a thing? I literally go years at a time without changing cables/housing. In fact, I’ve only done it once, and that was due to a groupset upgrade. Every other bike I’ve had I’ve either sold with its original cables or am still rocking the cables/housing I started with. Within the first couple of months I usually have to adjust the derailleur/cable tension, but otherwise, for me, mechanical is mostly set-and-forget. I always use the highest quality cables/housing I can though, and have no problem making tweaks to screws/cables, though I get that some people aren’t willing/able to do their own wrenching. I’m also typically riding <8,000km/year so maybe higher mileage folks go through that stuff quicker.
So my N=1 is the “ease of maintenance” thing is a little baffling. And I’ll counter that I’ve had electronic ruin a ride twice, once due to having a dead battery and needing to wait to charge it, and once due the derailleur spontaneously deciding to stop shifting mid-ride, and electronic is basically un-fixable roadside, unlike mechanical (in this case needed to download new firmware).
Do people actually replace their cables/housing twice a year?
Depends on how much you ride and what conditions you ride in. My gravel bike probably needs the cables replaced twice a year for optimal shifting. Road bike I’ll do once a year, but that’s best practice in general for newer Shimano mechanical because there are issues with the shift cables breaking right below the head.
Do people actually replace their cables/housing twice a year?
No way. I replace it as-needed. And if it’s well sealed, it’s rarely needed. My 2019 Stumpjumper has original cable/housing. I’ve done the hydraulic fluid a few times, that’s it. And it’s a bike I use heavily. If it shifts/drops great and shows no sign of cable wear at the shifters/derailleur/dropper, why mess with it?
Cable-actuated brakes are different. I’d do those on a schedule, as they’re under far more tension than a shifter or dropper cable, and the consequences of snapping one can be far worse. Still not twice a year, though. Annually for a heavily-used bike, less often for a race-only bike.
I live in the PNW. It’s wet always, and mildly humid almost always. My wife rides 100-500 miles a week year round. I used to ride about half that until we became parents. When I am negligent about maintenance to the point that I let the rear shifter cable deteriorate and don’t change it until it snaps, it takes 9-12 months for the cable to break due to rust.
Not sure where you live, but some multisport shops rent bikes. Both road bike and tri bikes.
I would even for just training rent one of each for a week or so and ride it the most you can stand it to see what you think.
As far as being worried jumping in price wise? If you rent something and have a preference maybe start out buying into someone else’s regret…a nice used bike. Find a local tri group and convince someone to look over a used purchase with you to point things out.
As far as what you’re sounding like looking for, maybe a 32mm tubeless equipped endurance road bike like an Emonda or Domane. We have folks in our group that ride them both road, and gravel. Same tires, same bike. Could put clip on bars on either. Either would have the gearing you like.
I always point to the tri bike being the right tool for the job, but know it’s a stretch of the mind for lots of folks. So at least perhaps rent one “just to see” what it’s all about.
it’s quite likely that whatever I decide on will probably be the last “race†bike I buy, so finding that sweet spot of modern with some bells n whistles without being over the top is what I am aiming for.
Good idea. In 2006 I got a then-new Cervelo Dual as my last race bike, still riding it today and don’t feel I am slowed down by the bike…
I like Dan’s idea, the Caledonia is right in that sweet spot. That price is really tempting. I blew my discretionary spending on a new canoe this year though, will have to wait a bit…
in the high dry CO air, it’s about five years between cable/housing replacements on my primary road bike. The MTB is on original cables from 2010…
For a race bike though I’d prefer electronic shifting for the reasons already mentioned - faster shifts, more accurate and less effort, better aero due to all the missing cables.
I am on bike/frameset purchase