ooooh. I think that’s one of the first lessons Bruce and Dale taught us: Don’t overlap wheels if you’re below because you’ve got no place to go but down.
/LOVE the track at Bloomer Park
//suck at racing on it.
Oh god, the Panther roadies are slumming in Slowtwitch now. I take back everything bad I ever said here about Paul Martin.
I thought only fatty masters were allowed in here.
Lots of options but our club uses Fuji Track 1.1’s for club/junior bikes - retail is less than 1400 and its a nice frame.
Since you are in Canada you could get a Marinoni Pista or Pista Chrono for 1700 - 1800. Then you get custom paint etc. Cycles Marinoni do know how to make a good handling stiff track frame. I do like my Pista Chrono.
Dont get caught up in too much tech - keep it simple. Steel or alum for frame. You want stiffness and handling - weight is of very little consequence.
You will need to get a selection of cogs/chainrings and tools for changing gears. Say 81 inch (48 - 16) gearing up to maybe 94 plus - depends on what you want to do.
As for getting on the track - they will probably have some intro nights - learn the rules ( blue line / black line shoulder checking etc etc ) as they will keep you safe.
Once you are comfortable spinning then find a couple of riders to do some team pursuits with - just learn exchanges and moving up and down the track.
Our club does “10 milers” a couple of time a week - just a fast paceline ride for the fastest time - great way to learn to ride in a fast paceline / group.
Unless you get into bunch racing/ kerin dont let the talk of crashing bother you. It does happen but not so much in training.
Note - dont let the sprinters imtimidate you!! They are a different breed!!
You are indeed fortunate to have a new big $ facility being built near you. I think it is really good advise from others to start with a rental for a few sessions at minimum. Do you plan on trying racing or are you more interested in using the track for training?
In terms of bikes, I have raced a lot of different track bikes including steel, AL and carbon. Once you start to log some miles on the track it may become apparent what sort of riding/racing you wan to do and that will help determine a direction on what bike to get. I would not go out and pick up a “cheap” bike just because it is cheap. There is a reason they are cheap…and a nicer set up will be more enjoyable.
Setup: you can typically have a bike for mass start and TT’ing just by changing the stem/h-bar. geometry is a totally different consideration.
Brands: Felt, Look, Fuji, etc…personally I race a Felt TK1 and it is the best track bike I have ever raced. You want a bike with longer drops so you can run a larger variety of gears. (The handful of Planet X track bikes I have experience with had difficult rear drops. Maybe have been something with this specific batch but I would avoid them personally.)
Wheels: Start with a decent set of spoked wheels with a flip flop hub on the rear (mavic makes a solid pair.) Tires can be important based on the track surface and banking.
Gearing: sprinters tend to go with 1/8" while a lot of the endurance riders use 3/32" - it is really important to not mix the two.
Sizing: this will be based on the type of riding you will be doing and can vary
Cost: you can find an entry level package for close to $1000 and I know Felt’s entry level bike is well equipped, but you can spend a lot more if desired. I would buy a nicer used bike over a new bike at the same price point.
A note on gearing: that will be somewhat dependent on the length and banking of the track (I assume the new track is 250m and 43-45 banking.) 81" is a very small gear IMO and 94" is smaller than I would ever race on. I do ride anywhere from 78" to 108" in a single workout depending on what I am trying to accomplish. 90" is generally considered the line between large and small but with people tending to larger gears I would argue that has moved up a few inches. Due to this I would advise you will need gears larger than 94"…
The track that he will probably be using until Milton is built is 138m with 50 degree banking. It is the only track I have ridden so I am not sure how it changes things compared to larger tracks?
That is short and steep, so smaller gears will be better on a track with those specs.
FWIW - I have exactly one track session under my belt. It definitely was a blast and I will be back.
I used a loaner bike (I think it was a Felt TK3 which is about a $900 bike).
I’d be very comfortable just using that loaner for the next several trips and if I try racing. The big downside to relying on a loaner is not technical or performance but the worry about whether there will always be a bike in my size available for me on demand and its a slight pain to have to switch out the pedals (the loaners at my local track are SPD, my shoes have Look cleats).
Most velodromes rent bikes. If that’s an option, I’d recommend going that route. You get to meet people, see what they’re riding, discuss and get info, and often find that someone’s trying to unload after getting a new bike.
Wrt gearing, everything’s in play, and as time goes by, you end up accumulating rings and cogs. It’s been years since I’ve done a session at the track without swapping out and changing gears.
The London “Wall of Death” !!! Just kidding but the bank on the straights is like the corners on a 333 track.
Just buy a $800 and go and have some fun.
Don’t go all the top level stuff because some guy on a $300 special will always beat you and you’ll look like a dick in a $3k bike/wheels.
Do a season or 2 for fun.
You’ll be hooked after your first ride around the top
Thanks so much for great info. Tonight is my 6th ride in the Burnaby Velodrome (200M) and LOVE IT. I’ll probably be purchasing an Argon18 Electron next week.
Several people who have that bike told me they switched out the 3/32 for 1/8th, but I’m 60 and asthmatic, so don’t think I’m a Sprinter. So, stay with the 3/32 and see if it works for me?
Nothing wrong with either, it might be easier to find 1/8th to purchase or in a pinch during racing.
If you already have a full track sack with 3/32, no need to convert.
3/32" is just fine, especially if you already have some parts…
Did I read correctly that it’s 138 meters?
Thanks so much for great info. Tonight is my 6th ride in the Burnaby Velodrome (200M) and LOVE IT. I’ll probably be purchasing an Argon18 Electron next week.
Ah man, now you’re making me remember how much I miss track. I used to live right by the San Diego velodrome, now I’m in south denver and the two velodromes are about an hour+ north / south respectively and my track bike sits idle in the basement.
Really wish velodromes weren’t such a rarity but I don’t see that changing anytime soon unfortunately. Enjoy it as long as you’re fortunate to live adjacent to one.
Forest City in London, Ontario is a 138m track. Milton is 250m.
John
As some others have suggested, I bought my former teammate’s bike. I just started track last season and bought the bike after using the rental bikes half a dozen times or so.
For gearing, I started with a 48/15 (86.4). Changed to a 50/15 (90) towards the end of the season. I’ve got a 14 tooth cog also but I haven’t used it much at all (I think the gear inches for that are 93 and 96?).
138M must be interesting and dizzying. 200M at Burnaby is interesting.
The one issue not mentioned about the size of the track is how upright you might have to be,. With a 200 meter track, things come up on you much quicker, and so I need to have my head up higher the whole time. I have neck issues, so I need a less aggressive position on my bike. Can’t imagine what it’s like on a 138M track.
Hey Tgarson
You have a Track Bike, live in ‘south Denver’ and have not been out to Erie, the Boulder Valley Velodrome ? Come on, join the fun. We have had a great first season of racing, and more to come next year.
I believe they still have the Certification Rides, to get certified to ride. So come on out.
PM me if you have any questions, I’ve been out there for the last two seasons.
Dave Beitel