Dropped the boy at school, then Mrs. Duffy and I drove up to a Central Coast surf spot (Monty knows where it is) and got some good south/west and west/north/west combo swell. A few big bombs rolled through. Mrs Duffy got work over a few times, took some fins to the low back and has the battle wounds to prove it (ha ha, kook,that’s what she gets for being such a wave hog).
She got some good ones, I got some good ones. It was 88 degrees and the water temp was in the mid sixties (very rare for this area). The wind never turned on (also rare).
Got back in time to pick up the boy, go to the beach for a swim. Made dinner (cashew chicken). Now the kid and friend are on the trampoline and Mrs. Duffy is spraying them down from the hose (fuck the drought!).
More of the same tomorrow.
