For timberman what combo of rear cassette/front chain rings did you use?
For example: 12-25 rear, 50/34 front
Thanks
I used standard cranks (53/39) both times. Used a 12/23 cassette the first time and a 12/25 this past year. Probably could’ve stuck with the 12/23 but wanted the insurance in case my climbing legs didn’t make the trip from PA.
i’m the 12-25 and 50/39…I am a total newbie, been riding 3 months, but what is wrong with me that the timberman course make me blow up?
I don’t wanna sound like a wussy, but would an 11-27 help?
An 11/27 would help in the short term, but you’ve only been riding for 3 months, an extremely short time for cycling. Just put the time in and you’ll see the results.
The answer depends on a lot of factors besides the course - height, inseam, physiology (some are better able to crank big gears at a relatively low cadence, while others do better spinning high revs - think Jan Ulrich v. Lance Armstrong.)
FWIW, I rode a 54/40 up front with 180 cranks and a 12-27 in the rear. I find it allows me to spin up the hills and hammer on the flats and downhills. (I am 6’ 5" and 200 lbs.)
like miker says just keep training and it will come. Remember though, the hardest part of Timberman is the first 20-25 km. Go too hard there and for sure you’ll blow up if you just started.
I was just thinking, I am obviously undertrained for the distance/route…can you recommend a flatter half iron race that might be better for such a newbie?
There’s a couple of half’s in NJ (Devilman and Bassman) which are flat (and bassman is in October). I’ve also done Eagleman(MD) and Diamondman (DE), which are also flat.
“i’m the 12-25 and 50/39…I am a total newbie, been riding 3 months, but what is wrong with me that the timberman course make me blow up?”
How much of the time were you in the 25 and hit the “no fun” button (ie tried to shift into the 27 you didn’t have)? IMO, if you are new and ride
where it is hilly, a 27 is nice to have until you clean your chain a few times and notice there is no grease on the 27. You don’t need an 11 in tris until
we’ve heard of you. (ie you are pretty super fast.)
I think the wind on the T-man course was the killer this year.
if I had it I would have used it! it is not so much for the shorter steep climbes…I do pretty well out of the saddle on those. However for the lower grade longer climbs I like to be in the saddle and spin, that is when I really feel like I need it…also, I’ll never be super fast, I am a total chickens**t once I hit 40MPH.
I used a triple the first time I did Timberman, since that was what was on my (only) road bike at the time.
This year I used 53/39 with 12/27. I’m more of the spinner, so the 27 helped on the couple steep hills. I’m sure I still passed plenty of people on those hills who were overgeared:)
You’re gonna get answers from people of widely differing cycling abilities whose gear needs may not tell you much of anything about what would work best for you. I usually am a middle of the pack cyclist and was happy with a 50/34 front 12/25 back for T-Man. I didn’t need that 34/25 very often, but was glad to have it.
I read quite a few posts about T-Man before the race and didn’t recall anyone highlighting the bike course as tough. Driving it the day before was definitely an oh-my-god experience. There was so little true flat stuff on the course.
I live in NH and train a lot on my road bike with a 53-42 and 12-23 cassette. On my tri bike I ride with a 53-39 and a 12-25. I think I could have done timberman with a 23, but there are a few sections that a 25 was nice on.
53/38, 12-23.
<< On my tri bike I ride with a 53-39 and a 12-25. I think I could have done timberman with a 23, but there are a few sections that a 25 was nice on. >>
Roger that. And ditto.
25 was nice, not even cuz I ever used that cog per se (I’m pretty sure I didn’t), but to have access to the 23 and 21 in the big ring w/o being silly cross-chained. Came in handy for some o’ the rollers.
To the OP - as was said already, what works for other riders pretty much has nothing to do with what would work best for another cyclist of differing ability.
While Timberman isn’t a flat course overall, it certainly isn’t what I’d call hilly.
But, perceptions will be different depending on what you are used to, and how stong a rider and climber you are.
Always better to have a bit too much gearing, than not enuff. I’d rather have a bail-out gear I never end up needing, than need it and not have it.