The aero compendium

Triathlon Forum
1

Okay, this thread is all about selecting gear to be as aero as possible on the bike. Below I’ve included my thoughts along with my gear choices. Keep in mind I’m no expert, I’m just basing my decisions on what I’ve read here and elsewhere. Also, I don’t own a lot of the gear listed here and I’ve tried to be as brand-impartial as possible. Feel free to disagree with me on any of my choices, or to add your ideas where there are gaps in mine. That’s what this thread’s all about…

Frame
Fit will be the most important consideration when choosing a frame, as the most aero frame in the world is pretty useless if it puts the rider in a non-aero body position or in a position where he can’t generate many watts. That said, provided it fits correctly, a frame like the P3C is hard to beat. Any other suggestions to add to the list that are likely as aero (or more aero) as the P3C are welcome.

Wheels
Wind and course elevation profile need to be considered when choosing a wheelset but, in general, a disc rear and a deep front are the most aero. From the data I’ve seen, it would be hard to beat a Zipp disc rear and 808 front combo. For those of us with powertaps, a wheel cover on the rear is a pretty good option.

Aero Bars
I’m really at a loss to suggest which bars are most slippery. I’ve seen the USE bars and they certainly look very aero. What about Oval, Planet X or Vision? In general, are S-bends faster than ski-grip? I’m open to suggestions here!

Helmet
There is no doubt that an aero helmet offers time savings over a standard vented helmet. From what I’ve read here about testing done in the MIT wind tunnel, any of the aero helmets on the market are better than a standard helmet, but some are better than others. I’ve hear it suggested that visors are generally slower. Choice of helmet will also depend on the particular rider’s body shape and position. It seems the consensus is that the LG Rocket and Giro Advantage are generally very good. What do we think of the Bell Meteor II or the MET PAC?

Clothing
I think there is data to suggest that gloves are slower than bare hands. There is apparently also some test data from MIT that suggests a tri suit is faster than a top and shorts, which makes intuitive sense to me. Obviously the suit needs to fit very well (toight like a tiger) to be as fast as possible. In terms of shoes, I’m not sure which are fastest. In the context of a tri or duathlon (except maybe in IM), it’s not practical to put on shoe covers in transition.

Hydration Systems
Perhaps a Camelback under the tri suit, as used by a number of long-distance time triallists, would be the most aero but it’s somewhat impractical to put on in transition. I’ve heard that an aero bar mounted system like Profile Design’s is faster than bottles on the frame or behind the seat, so it may be the best option.

Okay, I’m out, now it’s your turn…

2

As far as I can tell you are on target with every category. I would also add Hed to the list of aero bars. Start with the Cervelo P3C frame and add money, lots of it and you will be a very fast poor person. Tim

3

There’s no doubt that aero can be expensive, but a number of the choices here are relatively inexpensive. A trisuit is no more expensive than shorts and a top, not wearing gloves saves you money, and a disc cover is cheap. When it comes to aero helmets and wheels, it doesn’t seem that the most expensive are necessarily the most aero, so it’s a matter of getting the most aero for your money. But yeah, a P3C isn’t cheap.

4

If you want to see what just under $10K will buy you, Google Brightroom Event Photo and go to their NYC Tri event (this year) and look up #269 (me). I am a real person who pays retail and does real events, and am not afflitated with any manufacture. Tim

5

Frames -

In general it seems that those that have been in the wind tunnel give hints about what they agree is fast and in general that list includes…

I recall Gerard giving a break down of

Walser - P3c

little step down

Trek TTX - P2c

I think Superdave would probably agree that the DA and B2 would fit on the top and lower level respectively.

Gerard also suggested that the P2SL was well above most bikes but a significant step down from the P2c or Trek TTx.

additionally non-uci bikes like Lotus, Zipp, Softride are probably worth a look

Wheels…

I think you’ve simplified it down. I would say the new Bontrager disc, Hed disc or Mavic Comete is probably a better option for aerodynamics as they are lenticular.

Secondly, BW 100, Stinger 90s, Xentis’ new TT, Hed 3, Mavic IO, all are probably worth investigation.

6

Helmet
There is no doubt that an aero helmet offers time savings over a standard vented helmet. From what I’ve read here about testing done in the MIT wind tunnel, any of the aero helmets on the market are better than a standard helmet, but some are better than others. I’ve hear it suggested that visors are generally slower. Choice of helmet will also depend on the particular rider’s body shape and position. It seems the consensus is that the LG Rocket and Giro Advantage are generally very good. What do we think of the Bell Meteor II or the MET PAC?

Not available and legal in the US so it is a moot point.

7

Only to Americans. Go to New York and look out across the Atlantic. There’s a whole “rest of the world” out there. You won’t be able to see it but trust me, it’s there.

8

Is this you?
http://brightroom.com/view_user_photo.asp?EVENTID=20348&PWD=&ID=38221256&FROM=photos&BIB=269

If so, invest some of that $10k in yoga lessons and get lower in front! :wink:

9

Frame

Softride FasTT. You’ll have to buy used, of course.

10

i suspect, but i am not sure, that many top frames (agis, BMC, cannondale, cervelo, felt, giant, kestrel, litespeed, orbea, planetx, QR, , softride, Specialized, Trek) are close enough in aerodynamics (coeff of drag i quess is the right term) that either could be made better of worse (maybe the best or the worst) depending on other factors/choices. such as - riders position over the bike, choice of fork, wheels, bars, seatpost, waterbottles (size, number, placement), bento box things, riding style, pedal cadence, speeds, wind direction and others. and it would be impossible to test and quantify each bike with each combination of options available, for a given rider, for a specific course. and of course you never know what the weather conditions will be like on race day. also, i bet that most of these bikes, if sized right to begin with, can be made to fit most riders (of course there is no sense in making a frankenbike if there is another that fits more easily). so the other varialbe is ride quality. and here the frame is only one part of the equation. position, wheels, tires, saddle, elbow pads all play a part of that.
so, i don’t think it is fair to say any quality built, areo designed, frame is much better. the differences are so small and your others choices so critical that you will probably never know if you have optomized your set up or made it worse.
maybe the best frame is the one you look at every day and you just want to ride it.
i dont’ know, just some thoughts.

11

Since everyone has physical differences and abilities it would be impossible to say for certain that x bike with x cockpit and wheels are the fastest choice for every rider in every condition.

That said, there is a science to riding a bicyle fast. If you are a man of science and have a healthy pocketbook there are several good places to start. One place to gain knowledge would be biketechreview.com ( ST’s distant nerdy cousin).

Tire choice

** -**Check out AFM’s tire rolling resistance experiment. It is a masterpiece. 3 things pop out here. 1.) You need to race on tires with latex tubes. 2.) Tubular tires must be glued properly-no tape allowed-and given time to cure. 3.) A worn tire is faster than a new one.

To be fast I suggest Pro2 Lights with latex tubes -no excuse free speed.

Wheel Choice
-Under most circumstances a disc or wheel cover on the back. If you think the course is too hilly for a disc log in the course profile at mapmytri.com, then enter the profile at analyticcycling.com and see if one is better off with a disc of a lighter deep section wheel.

       -Front wheel- as deep as you can handle. For the widest range of tire choices I recommend 808/ Jet 90/ Stinger 90

Helmet
-Any aero helmet. But as a rule of thumb stay away from Rudy Project. Recommend choices Rocket or Spiuk if it fits. Can’t recommend the Advantage 2 as to my knowledge it is still vaporware (advertisements to the contrary)

Body Position
-Again highly spec’d toward the individual- but hard to go wrong with flat back, knees in and arms out.

Frame
-The tops are well known, just know that spacers are aerodynamically ugly. So make sure it fits!

Fork and Aerobars
-Still needs more research. Undoubtedly different forks interact differently with varying wheel types. Have yet to see any decent windtunnel results in this regard. Aerobars Same story have yet to see proof that anything is better than alloy Vision tech basebar with clipons.

YOU

** **-Get a powermeter and find a flat course. Adjust position and equipment by using the above as aguidleine until you find the fastest setup for you.

12

"Helmet
-Any aero helmet. But as a rule of thumb stay away from Rudy Project. Recommend choices Rocket or Spiuk if it fits. Can’t recommend the Advantage 2 as to my knowledge it is still vaporware (advertisements to the contrary)"

Can you explain why you mention to stay way form Rudy Project. I have seen a lot of pro’s (not sponsored by Rudy) wearing the helmet. If it was so bad then why does it look like the helmet of choice. So if these athletes are not sponsored and are not paid why are they wearing the helmet. At the same time, I have not seen one pro cycling team wearing this helmet.

So before anyone says they are paid to wear them or what ever, does anyone have numbers to show that the Rudy Project helmets are bad.

I currently run the LG Crono so I do not use the Rudy either but that is because I have not tried it on.

13

Good additions. The tire choice, while not just an aero consideration, is an excellent way to get free speed. I either run Michelin Pro Race 2, Vittoria Open Evo CX or Deda Tre Giro d’Italia with Michelin latex tubes. All of them give a great ride and are definitely fast.

14

I would argue that tire choice is as big of an aero choice as your wheels. One mismatched with the wrong other is going to yield very sub optimal performance.

15

Wheels…

I think you’ve simplified it down. I would say the new Bontrager disc, Hed disc or Mavic Comete is probably a better option for aerodynamics as they are lenticular.

I think this would depend on what frame is used - from what I have read I think that a flat disk is suppose to work better with some frame than lenticular. I am sure I have read that Flat disks are better with Cervelo’s whilst Lenticular disk work better on Trek TTX’s

16

My Litespeed Blade configured with a 404 up front and a Zipp disc is very aero. I do not get passed going down hills. In fact, training on the rollers of the 5430 Long Course in Boulder I was coasting past my teammates on various bikes, while they were pedaling.

17

Couldn’t that have as much to do with:

  1. Your body shape and position;
  2. Smooth rolling hubs; and
  3. Tire rolling resistance,

as with the aerodynamics of your frame and wheels?

18

Probably all of the above.

I know that I can be fast through the air as I used to be a speed skier, but in fact the bike limits my ability to get low and as aero as I could possibly go.

19

1- position is ridiculously key… going to a wind tunnel and refining your position for under 1k… will be worth more to you than any piece of equipment- including frame or disc wheel, etc. Different aero helmets are better than others for different people- a wind tunnel will allow you to choose the fastest… what works for tri guy A, might not work for tri gal B.

2- wearing typical cycling gloves is definitely less aero than wearing gloves. Not sure about the gloves that you see Discovery wear.

3- the best clinchers tires with latex tubes have lower rolling resistance than the best tubulars and their latex tubes. also high quality clinchers seem to be more round on the wheel once mounted

4- flat back and lower is better… esp if you use a choke up aero bar position- and you are still flat

5- use the tire width recommended by the aero wheel… example- zipp 21 mm, HED 20 or 19 mm

6- lens disc rear is more aero than any flat disc (just slightly though) includind zipp and their dimples

7- deeper or H3 is better on the front…

8- training with a powermete is key for improvements and pacing… nothing like an HRM- the single most effective training aid that I and many others have ever used

9- rear mounted bottles/water systems are not more aero- use your down tube and seat tube if you have those options. The hydrotail is more aero than the next best rear mounted system- but not better than a down tube/seat tube bottle.

10- for some frames like a P3- no bottles are better than bottles (say for a sprint tri)