Is this necessary for most of you? I am running a Mavic Open pro, Zipp 404 or Zipp disc in rear. I have Shimano 10 speed 12-25 and a SRAM 11-26 cassette to use. I was at the LBS getting magnets aligned for my cateye wireless (Thanks Ian ‘Itseazy’) and the tech told me my rear derailleur was out of adjustment. Apparently the top and bottom limiters needed adjustment as the chain was going too far into the spokes on the 11-26, and also not engaging the last gear next to the frame which I had not noticed.
Now it looks like race prep is even more onerous! Changing pads, changing wheels, checking air, packing spares, adjusting rear derailleur…what am I forgetting?
I used to have the same problem when switching between my disc and training wheels. It was apparently a spacer issue which required an adjustment of the barrel knob behind the RD. I just asked my LBS to show me then I just repeated it when I made a wheel switch. Should be really easy if your problem is the same as mine was.
I have a similar problem, but mine is even more labor intensive. I have a Renn disc with 12-27 for racing, and race x lite with 12-27 for training. When I put the race wheel on, I have to totally undo the cable and do a total derailleur adjustment (so the chain can go into the largest cogs). Simply tweaking the barrel adjuster and adjusting the limiter screws isn’t enough. The cassette sits MUCH closer to the hub on the Renn…is there a spacer I can get to put on the Renn to make wheel swapping easier? Anyone know?
Now it looks like race prep is even more onerous! Changing pads, changing wheels, checking air, packing spares, adjusting rear derailleur…what am I forgetting?
These are things that you should be doing anyway…basic pre-race maintenance, and not exactly time consuming even if you’re not mechanically inclined. It’s perfectly normal to have to adjust the limit screws a bit and tweak the barrel adjuster when swapping wheels - cassettes sit differently on different brands, wheel dishes may be off, and hub placement on the axle may vary. It’s better just to know how to do this quickly rather than guess and fumble your was through.
A poster above mentioned that he had to re-cable the rear derailleur…that’s extreme, and is more indicitive of a bent hanger or a wheel that is severly out of dish. That should not ever need to happen during a wheel swap.