Much has been said about the water resistance of the Garmins. The 201/301 series were problematic and remains so because of the USB plug. But the 205/305 uses contacts on the back of the watch to mate up with a special cradle for downloading and charging.
Despite Garmin’s cautioning about not letting the thing get too wet, I swam 49:00 at the Clearlake 101 with my Garmin and the only downside is that you lose the satelites when your hand is under water, so there’s highly erratic GPS mapping for the swim and for some reason no HR. Other than that, the thing worked flawlessly. A friend wore hers and got warned that the battery was dying at around 10:00-10:30 into the race, but it didn’t shut off. I don’t think the water resistance is that much of an issue, because while swimming your hand and watch are out of the water almost as much as they’re in.
So for a 13:00:00 IM, you won’t be able to use it because of battery life (C’mon Garmin, this is 2007. Surely you can put a battery in these things that will last long enough for MOP AGers to finish an IM!!) Any race that’s going to finish in under 11:00, you should be OK.
“so there’s highly erratic GPS mapping for the swim and for some reason no HR. Other than that, the thing worked flawlessly.”
“That’s comedy.”
Allow me to clarify. The Garmin worked flawlessly (or as well as a Garmin can work, because it’s altitude calculations are pretty weird) for the bike and run, which is where I wanted it anyway. I don’t know about you, but I can’t and don’t need to check my HR during a swim.
My thought was that I wanted the Garmin for run pacing, which is a weak point for me. I thought about hooking it to my number belt and turning it on before the race, but at the 101 everything was in bags, so it couldn’t have found satelites and therefore in order to use it on the run, I’d have to just put it on during the bike and turn it on, and then start it later or just for the run or else stand around for 60-90 seconds while the flaming thing found satelites. By wearing it for the swim, I was able to let it find satelites, then it didn’t lose them long enough during the swim for it to go weird on me.
So the swim data was suspect/useless/non-existent, but the bike and run data was there.
I have never used the Garmin for a swim, but have read on other threads, that some STrs place the watch in a zip-lock and then put it under their swim cap during the swim portions. According to those posts, the Garmin didn’t have a problem picking up the satellite when used in that way, though I don’t recall what they said about the HR. You can do a search for the threads. As for the battery, yes, Garmin should find a better battery that would last longer.
I wouldn’t mess with it…well not again. In HAwaii last year I did a training swim the day before the race with my 305. It worked well but me being a total idiot hit the start/stop button underwater. From there it took on water and I found myself scrambling to buy a cheapo HRM to use for the race. Thankfully REI took it back but I never got to race with it there. Since then I just keep it strapped on the bike (turned off) and then once I start biking I put it on the wrist and am good from there.
I’ve heard that about putting it under your cap (which seems like you wouldn’t get any GPS data unless you had a transparent cap, but what do I know…) Main thing about that for me is that I’d hate to lose my cap AND my Garmin in the scrum at the swim start. I’d be paranoid about that if the thing wasn’t strapped to my wrist where it belongs, plus that’s one more thing to mess with in T1.
All you need is the relatively new Garmin bike-to-wrist quick release kit. It’s what I use. Mount the unit on the bike as you leve transition for the swim, turn it on and then it’s ready for you when you get into T1. Works great.
“I just keep it strapped on the bike (turned off) and then once I start biking I put it on the wrist and am good from there.”
I thought about that, but my experience is that if I don’t stand still while the friggin’ thing finds satelites, that it won’t give me good data. I only use it for running (although I wear it on the bike and look at the data later, it’s only my run pacing where I feel I need to be watching speed and HR. If there was a way to pick up the Garmin later in the day (without losing time or getting crap data) I’m for that.
“And so what sort of pacing did the Garmin provide during your race?”
Sadly it confirmed that I suck! But it was quite helpful and somewhat motivating because I have it show me current pace and average pace for the entire run. By keeping my eye on that average number, I motivate myself to push a little harder to push it down at least a little closer to the numbers I fantasize attaining some day…
“All you need is the relatively new Garmin bike-to-wrist quick release kit.”
I’ve thought about getting one of those. I think it’s a good idea, but I tend to experience brain death during races. I’d hit mile two of the run and realize the Garmin is still strapped to my bike!! Maybe I’ll get one and see if I can’t train myself to use it.
You have a valid point. On anything under a full Ironman I just turn it on before the swim start, that way I’m guaranteed it’ll have satellites by the time I start the timer on it. The other thing to be aware of is the battery life on the Garmin 305. I believe it’ll last for about 10 hours, my experience is more like 9, so unless you are a sub-10 hour IM’er, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to leave it in your T2 bag for strictly the run, otherwise you risk it dying somewhere on the run (when you need it!)…Maybe wear a cheaper HRM for the bike and swap out in T2…only a few seconds for an IM doesn’t usually mean much.
Other than that, for any shorter race, leave it on the bike (turned on), and you should be set for the rest of the race.
I do put mine in a bad, under the swim cap. It does get a satellite signal, with any cap I have used, and they have been various colors.
I have found that if I get my wetsuit stripped, then pull off the cap and goggles, I can put the watch on and switch to biking mode while running to T1. The swim data is somewhat useful. I did not realize how much I zig-zagged until I wore mine in the swim the first time. Since then I swim faster, largely as a result of knowing I was wasting time with bad sighting.
I’m suprised that has helped you. With the variance of < 30 ft, it is hard to trust. Try it on the track, it’ll show you zig-zagging all over the place. I love my Garmin, I just don’t put all my confidence in it, it is just another tool.
“I did not realize how much I zig-zagged until I wore mine in the swim the first time.”
You weren’t zig-zagging nearly as much as the Garmin shows. I’ve worn mine at the track, and it shows me zig-zagging like a drunk when I’m actually running in a lane. The GPS just isn’t that accurate.
As to switching to bike mode, use the “auto multisport” mode and all you have to do is hit the lap button and it switches modes. Just don’t try to use the lap button at any other time, or it will switch modes and once you’ve run out of pre-programmed activities, it will auto stop!!
If you’re on a multi-loop bike course, you need to set auto-multisport for three bike segments and then you can use the lap button for each lap. On the run, I have it auto-lap every mile, because I find that a useful interval for me.
Others have asked about the GPS accuracy as well. I have never seen my runs or bikes zig zag. (I never run on a track so I cannot verify it as you suggest.) But I do run on urban trails, and I can plot my runs over satellite images and the run generally stays within the 10 or 12 foot width of the trail. There is sometimes an offset of the starting point, and I have to shift the whole run to make it align with the images, but I don’t get GPS zig-zags of any significant note. Maybe I am in an area with better reception than you.
The first swim I wore the Garmin we started directly into the sun, on an out and back course where the out and back were not seperated. (One line of buoys.) Not only was there the problem of seeing the buoys with the sun right on the horizon, but I had at least 4 or 5 times were someone from an earlier wave had crossed the buoy line and was comming right at me!
So I could see my zig-zags there, and other swims have shown much straighter. Mainly I do like having it during the swim just so that I can compare one swim to another. Since it seems there is great variation between swim courses distance, even when they all should be the same distance since I only race HIM, I at least have a pretty good idea as to the actual length of swim.
I’ve heard that about putting it under your cap (which seems like you wouldn’t get any GPS data unless you had a transparent cap, but what do I know…)
GPS transmits at a frequency of about 1.5GHz, i.e., a wavelength of about 20cm, which means that the cap does not present an obstacle to reception (one would need a shield thickness comparable to the wavelength to effectively block the signal – like putting the receiver one foot underwater).
You can swim with your 305 and you can get away with it for a while. I did, but after a while it will get water under the screen and it will die. I know, I did it. The good news is that they will refurbish/replace it for 95 dollars. The bad news is that it will take a few weeks to get it sent to Garmin and get it replaced. Furthermore the swim data is not helpful. Of course, this is without putting it in a ziplock bag and with wearing it on your wrist.
Good luck, but I wouldn’t and don’t swim with it anymore.
GPS signal is an RF (Radio Frequency) signal and thus the color of your swimming cap is irrelevant to this matter and most likely it wont block the signal. As for turning it on on the bike, try to upgrade the firmware to the new version, one of the great changes they made to the new software is their tracking algorithm, allowing the device to pick up the signal better on the go.
I’m a Garmin junkie. I put the heart rate strap on with Spectra 812 gel under the wet suit and turn on my 305 Forerunner and 305 Edge in the transistion aera before the event. I check to see if they are getting the heart rate and if not I reboot them (read the instructions). They both will read exactly the same heart rate. I am such a bad swimer that I don’t wear any kind of watch or GPS while in the water. When I get on the bike I start the Edge and when I get off the bike I turn it off and grap my Forerunner out of my shoes and start it (when I say start, I mean the timer function as both units are on for the whole event, i.e. tracking satilites). The offical company line is that these things have a 14 hour battery life, and so if you can turn theses things on just before you start and finish in under 14 you should be covered. If you are going to be doing an event longer then 14 hours, then just turn on the individual unit for the time that you will need it (run for the Forerunner or Bike for the Edge). Best of luck at the races, Tim