I got my bike (Giant Trinity Alliance frame with full SRAM Red TT components) built up with Yokozuna cables because I read they were “better” than other cables. I have no idea what is going on because whenever I try to shift from a lower to a higher rear cog, I have to shift twice in order for the rear derailleur to jump 1 cog then reshift so the rear derailleur is in the correct position for the gear I’m in. It’s insane, does anyone know what may be wrong? Plus, the Red front derailleur is sloppy as can be - I’ve had schwinn bikes shift better than this. Is this the Red group, the cables being inadequate or not tuned right, or is it just a case of a bike that needs some more pro work to fine tune it out?
not set up right, you have too much cable slack it seems. Go back and recheck your routing
Not familiar with Giant TT, but you probably have internal cable routing.
Bar end shifters are not recommended to use indexed shifting with internal routing.
However, if you investigate, you can probably get the index shifting to work (likely something causing undue friction with your cable(s)).
Good luck.
The Giant has internal routing, but I had no idea you weren’t supposed to used indexed systems with bar ends? Are you supposed to use friction shift systems? What do other people use for their Tri bikes here?
Bar end shifters are not recommended to use indexed shifting with internal routing.
Riiiiggghhhtttt…all those cervelos out there are running in friction mode…
Bar end shifters (at least DA) are capable of using both friction and indexing.
I have not used SRAM bar end shifters.
Nevertheless, as long as you get a smooth cable route you should still be able to use the index function.
I brought this up b/c it’s very likely that something is hindering your cable.
I learned this from my first TT bike which was a P2C… it had some whacky junk inside the cable route (internally) that I had to fish out with a clothes hanger.
The Yokozuna cable housing is the stiffest thing I have ever put my hands on. The mech who installed them said they were the beastliest things he’s ever wrestled, and it looks like some of the runs are a little unorthodox (because these things do not bend). Could that be the problem?
Yes, it could. Indexed shifting works perfectly on a bike with internal routing if the housing is cut and routed correctly and the bike is properly adjusted. Can oyu post a picture of the housing routing? If there is a kink in the housing or it is routed incorrectly that will cause your problem, but it sounds like you just need ot increase the spring tension on your rear der cable or maybe your derailleur hanger is bent. Any quality mechanic should be able to fix your problem. You already spent $4k+ on a bike. Spend $50 to make it work. Finding a quality mechanic, however, is the tough part.
what does a sloppy front derailleur mean? What is “better”?
Sloppy meaning I shift, the front derailleur moves the chain grinds on the derailleur for a good 2 seconds and then moves over - that can’t be good for the chain and it really doesn’t seem right. Better means shifting, boom, done - the chain is over and no grinding or dragging.
Sloppy meaning I shift, the front derailleur moves the chain grinds on the derailleur for a good 2 seconds and then moves over - that can’t be good for the chain and it really doesn’t seem right. Better means shifting, boom, done - the chain is over and no grinding or dragging.
As far as grinding being bad for the chain, that’s not really the case. The wear points for a chain are between the pins and the links. When the connection there gets sloppy your chain gets too long and it’s worn out.
Maybe your limit screws aren’t set right so your chain isn’t pushed far enough over, or maybe your chainline is off.
Either way, if a pro mechanic put your bike together take it back.
Now to address whether one cable set is “better” than another set: That’s garbage. Your cables are wear items and should be replaced regularly (once or twice a year) because they all get gunked up with dust from the road mixing with oil creating excess friction. I use the cheapest housing from Performance bicycle I can find ($25 for brake and derailleur cables+housing) and it works flawlessly.
Since cables don’t have much, if any, elasticity then the ability to shift the bar end shifter should result in immediate action. The front derailleur is a simple 4 bar linkage, there is no slop in the system that would be derailleur related. There might be a problem with your outer cable housing not being in full contact on either side which is causing your slop by altering the effective length between the shifter and derailleur.
Makes sense. I appreciate the feedback here. I’m going to take the bike back to the shop and see what can be done.
The issue is the SRAM front derailleur uses a different linkage system than the shimano which can sometimes hit the bike frame which will prevent it from shifting all the way into the big ring. This was the case on my road bike and I switched it out to an ultegra front derailleur.
Hey,
Its not really insane at all.
If its a brand new bike:
- The cable tension and/or limit screws were not set right at build…or
- The cables have stretched since pickup and need to be adjusted.
Solution,
Take it back to the store and get them to re:adjust, this should be part of after sale service. Then sign up for a basic bike maintenance course to learn how to change flats and adjust derailleurs etc. More than likely a 1/4 turn of the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur will solve your problem, a little knowledge is a lot of power…
Martin
Not familiar with Giant TT, but you probably have internal cable routing.
Bar end shifters are not recommended to use indexed shifting with internal routing.
However, if you investigate, you can probably get the index shifting to work (likely something causing undue friction with your cable(s)).
Good luck.
Huh? WTF are you talking about? Um, in the future please check facts before you post. Index shifting does and will work FINE with internal cables.
I have set up a lot of bikes including my own with internal cable routing and indexing. As long as you have the cables set up correctly it should work great. I run Sram Red/Force with internal routing on my Slice and it works perfectly.
Take it back to the shop and have them readjust it.
Kevin
Some of you guys are the biggest A-holes.
I am aware that indexed shifting works with internal cable routing… If you’d read (and understood) my posting, then you would have seen that I was making a suggestion while stating a fact.
The fact is that if you read the manual/written instructions provided by Shimano for DA bar end shifters, Shimano indicates that bar end shifters are*** not recommended*** for indexed shifting for internal cable routing.
I had to look it up for myself. But you are correct The tech-document SI-6RP0A from Shimano at least says that “Because the high cable resistance of a frame with internal cable routing would impair the SIS function, this type of frame should not be used.” However, my bike has internal cable routing and I’ve never had a problem. So, it works . . . but still, you were correct with stating that fact.
Your rear shifting issue sounds like nothing more than a barrel adjustment is needed.