If I want to convert to 10spd from 9spd (Ultegra in both cases), do I only change
the chain,
cassette
Rear DR
bar end shifter?
OR, do I have to change anything in the front, i.e. chain ring, crank, BB. Seems like no, but I am in the woods on much of this. I don;t see why the front would be effected, unless the CR’s are different due to a difference in the chain, or is the chain just narrower. If is it narrower, can it drop between the front CR’s? Meaning that you may need different cranks with a tighter spacing on the CR’s, but the CR’s are the same???
I only changed the chain, cassette and bar ends. Works perfectly. The rear mech only follows the shifter so it is OK. I did nothing with the front mech or the chainrings.
zero help on the conversion (blonde remember?)…but wanted to hijack to tell you Congratulations on IMAZ. I logged on and saw your rather nasty photo of your feet and smiled. That was a higher being slowing you down so that you wouldn’t abuse those knees. Glad you got to taste the finish line…CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Ok…now to go figure out this glue+hardwood = a gorgeous floor and one crappy Friday night.
Chain, new cassette and rear derailler. The front crank will work just fine. You can use your existing bar end shifters, but not indexed - you must go to friction. There are no Ultegra bar end shifters, you have to get the new DA 10 speed bar end shifters (about $68 at my LBS) if you want it indexed (I did).
To everyone, thank you. My concern was that the 10speed chain would drop between the front chainrings, but my GF’s bike is here, and it is 10sp DA. I dropped the chain, removed the chainrings on my 9sp and her 10sp and the space between the chainrings is: 9spd=10spd+6MM. I measured the difference between chain widths.
Adrialin-Yikes! I can get the chain, cassette, bar end shifters and 10speed RDR in Ultegra for $222.40.
I see Brian says that I can stick with the 9sp RDR. That’s good, but I think I can use or will need the 9spd RDR on my road bike, because I am messing around with that, as well.
Eileen–If you do see God, remind him that I had already promised that I would not run anymore, and that if 26.2 miles makes that big a difference to him, maybe his personality is not really suited to being God. And that his “warning” did not have to start on the swim.
rroof–Thank you. This has been good for me to go through. Learned a little. I am sure I will learn more when I get the stuff and start trying to get it all to work. I will probably need a third bike to ride while the first two are in pieces.
The neosporin was amazing–As I noted, the skin re-attached. I cut off what I could but, it was REALLY completely reattached–is this more likely to come off again, or is it going to be tougher?
just as an aside, I had a Shimano 10s DA crank and 9s 105 front deraileur, and had some problems with dropping the chain between the rings. and it wouldn’t shift up front unless the chain was on the larger cogs. part of this was because I didn’t get it tuned just right, I’m sure. however, Shimano made their chains quite a bit narrower, even more so than Campy, to the point where a 10s Wipperman chain designed for Campy won’t work with 10s Shimano.
weiwentg–your RDR and Cassette and your cranks were 10sp DA. But your FDR was 9sp 105. Is that what you are saying? Did you have a 10sp Shim chain, or what chain did you have?
BTW–I went with Brian Stover on this, that UL 9sp RDR will work just fine with UL10sp cassette. So only purchases were: Shinamo 10sp chain, DA 10sp bar end shifters and UL 10sp cassette. Cost was $160 incl shipping to go UL 9sp to UL 10sp.
