Skip fitting on road bike?

Is getting a pro fit less important on a road bike vs tri bike? I see a lot more people in favor of a pro fit for tri bikes over road bikes… But may just be a bias of what I read. But it seems maybe road bikes are less complicated to fit right?

I currently own neither bike type. Doing an oly tri. Thinking to get a mid range road bike to try it out, then look at getting a pro fit plus tri bike next year if I want to 70.3 or such.

If I pick up a road bike that is the right size frame… Will it probably be adjustable to fit me? Or am I going to be stuck with a bike that I can never fit? If its just adjustments fit would buy, I can hopefully figure it out myself. I like to tinker. Will likely be my own mechanic.

Fwiw eyeing caad 10.3 but no idea what I will end up with.

It’s important for both, especially if you’re going to be logging a lot of miles and/or racing on it. Neither type of bike is more complicated to fit really, they’re just different.

It’s important for both, especially if you’re going to be logging a lot of miles and/or racing on it. Neither type of bike is more complicated to fit really, they’re just different.

Can most road frames be tweaked to fit eventually? I can figure it out if I’m not stuck down an impossible to fix path…

Is getting a pro fit less important on a road bike vs tri bike? I see a lot more people in favor of a pro fit for tri bikes over road bikes… But may just be a bias of what I read. But it seems maybe road bikes are less complicated to fit right?

I currently own neither bike type. Doing an oly tri. Thinking to get a mid range road bike to try it out, then look at getting a pro fit plus tri bike next year if I want to 70.3 or such.

If I pick up a road bike that is the right size frame… Will it probably be adjustable to fit me? Or am I going to be stuck with a bike that I can never fit? If its just adjustments fit would buy, I can hopefully figure it out myself. I like to tinker. Will likely be my own mechanic.

Fwiw eyeing caad 10.3 but no idea what I will end up with.

  1. Over the course of a year, I got my own road bike fit so close that I wasted $200 when I got a pro fit, since all they did was raise my saddle ~5 mm. That was, however, after a couple of years of cycling. I knew what felt good. I approve the idea of buying a roadie first - it’s way cheaper to get a medium-level road bike than a medium / high level tri bike.

  2. Tri bike fit is basically the same as road bike fit - you can get close on your own, but some minor changes make big difference in terms of comfort. At the highest level, I’m sure the true is same of aerodynamics, but I doubt you’d be asking this question if you intended on spending time in the wind tunnel.

  3. The CAAD10 will never, ever let you down, unless you get a terminal case of carbon envy. If you do, buy a nice stem and handlebar, because that bike is SOILD. When they say “the world’s finest aluminum racing machine,” they are not exaggerating; I have seen many a race won on a CAAD10.

  4. You will probably fit on a bike that suits your ‘range’ unless you have exceptionally odd morphology or exceptional conditions (lumbar issues, mostly). Without knowing how tall you are, some people can fit on two size frames (esp. in the 5’10" range - either a 54 / 56 would be totally fine). Flexibility means that you can ride a smaller frame, which will allow you to get lower and more aero. It also makes the bike feel more twitchy / responsive, which feels better for me through the corners. Since you’re doing a tri on it, a slightly larger frame (ie, 56 cm) might make more sense so you can get a more triathlon-specific position using a zero-setback post.

  1. Over the course of a year, I got my own road bike fit so close that I wasted $200 when I got a pro fit, since all they did was raise my saddle ~5 mm. That was, however, after a couple of years of cycling. I knew what felt good. I approve the idea of buying a roadie first - it’s way cheaper to get a medium-level road bike than a medium / high level tri bike.

  2. Tri bike fit is basically the same as road bike fit - you can get close on your own, but some minor changes make big difference in terms of comfort. At the highest level, I’m sure the true is same of aerodynamics, but I doubt you’d be asking this question if you intended on spending time in the wind tunnel.

  3. The CAAD10 will never, ever let you down, unless you get a terminal case of carbon envy. If you do, buy a nice stem and handlebar, because that bike is SOILD. When they say “the world’s finest aluminum racing machine,” they are not exaggerating; I have seen many a race won on a CAAD10.

  4. You will probably fit on a bike that suits your ‘range’ unless you have exceptionally odd morphology or exceptional conditions (lumbar issues, mostly). Without knowing how tall you are, some people can fit on two size frames (esp. in the 5’10" range - either a 54 / 56 would be totally fine). Flexibility means that you can ride a smaller frame, which will allow you to get lower and more aero. It also makes the bike feel more twitchy / responsive, which feels better for me through the corners. Since you’re doing a tri on it, a slightly larger frame (ie, 56 cm) might make more sense so you can get a more triathlon-specific position using a zero-setback post.

Awesome thanks!

I am 6’3" with long upper body (6’6" wingspan). So guessing a 58cm but could be a 61cm.