I wanna build a CC bike for the fall and am looking for some ideas from you guys. Post your picture to get me more excited about the project. Any ideas how to built on budget of $500-700, or where to get a decent frame? I think that fall-winter cc racing would be the best thing to prepare for 2008 season. Here around Fort Worth there is tons of races, so it would be just perfect!
For racing, you can get a lightweight aluminium frame like a redline, specialized, cannondale, etc. Add any old wheels you have around, seelct tires appropriate for your canditions, gearing in back is generally a 12-25 or 27, while the front is a 39 and 48 or so. Brakes are always a headache, the Avids are cheap and tolerable but tend to squeal. If it is dry there, get the newer model Shimanos, they are a great option but sit a little close ot the rim. For pedals, the time atac or eggbeaters are the standard, times are better built of the two.
Size wise, get similar to your road side and perhaps a tad smaller, less bar drop but otherwise pretty similar. All the rest of the parts are standard road stuff. Here’s my bike, I don’t know how a picture will help, but have at it:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/jroden99/ebayfeb014.jpg
07 Fuji Cross Comp. Campy shifters, FD/RD. Velocity Deep V tubular rims, FSA 48/38 crankset. I typically ride a 56cm Fuji roadbike and went witha 54 cross bike. Make sure you check the measurements as some cross bikes are sized one size off. Also, as stated, your bar/saddle drop will not be as big on a cross bike.
Nice bikes, but you’ve got to go bar end shifters on drop bars for a CX bike. The bar ends are cheaper and more durable than STI’s because they won’t get loaded with mud and whatnot. Also, when you’re checking out frames, make sure that it will accept larger width tires… as you’ll usually run 28-35 widths for CX. This shouldn’t be a problem with any dedicated CX frames, but if you stumble upon a cheap road frame that you’re considering, then it could become an issue. I agree with the ATAC recommendation. They’re pretty bullet-proof and stable. I used to have a ridiculously pink Kona Major Jake, which handled great and was light, even with all of the cheaper components. Some riders dislike the handling of the Jake the Snake/Major Jake geometry, but I had nothing but positive experiences with that bike, and highly recommend it.
Here’s mine…
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/2221/img0005pd7.jpg
Shot with Canon PowerShot A620 at 2007-07-23
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/9040/img0006ro6.jpg
Shot at 2007-07-23
You are right, Cross most definitely helped my cycling for the 2007 season. Have fun building up your bike. Mine is off the rack!
It get’s stripped down for racing. Minus the bag, bottle cages, fender, and a 48 front ring instead of a 53 during season.
I commute on it as well. There is some rail to trails right off my commute route where I can pick up as many miles as I want.
Ah…the pain of CX is right around the corner! (The bike is dirty from the day before, btw)
Definitely go a size down if the manufacturer is measuring seat tube length. Most 52cm frames still have a 53-54cm top tube, so make sure you check the geometry first. Apparently its a function of the bottom bracket drop making the seat tube shorter, so frames “run large.” I sat on a 54cm Redline and could barely reach the bars (slight exaggeration).
I’ll post mine when it gets here! I just got an '06 Trek X01 from ebay, I’m like a kid waiting for Christmas.
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How do you like your Fettish frame for cross? I keep seeing those on Ebay and am tempted to get one. I have a heavy steel Jamis Nova right now and want a stiffer, lighter frame. I don’t know anything about those frames and don’t know anyone that races one. Just looking for some input on the frame.
thanks.
Anne
trigone, post a pic of yourself kicking ass on the cross race course! you rock girl!
Not sure if this will work,but here is one. This is the heaviest frame known to woman…
Love it, I road a Surly Crosscheck for awhile and wanted the same thing, a lighter bike. Loved the Surly, but felt it would make a better commuting fixed with all the bosses and stuff they have on it.
If you go Carbon Fork, Post and Bars, I have not been able to notice nay more vibration on the alum then I do on the steel. The frame itself has a great geometry for cross at least for me. Great vertical and lateral stiffness due to the odd shaped top tube (don’t know if you can tell from the pictures, but the top tube has grooves in it). It’s well thought out with the brake cabling routed on top. The gear cabling is housed completely underneath as well to prevent any mechanicals from happening due to pinches or just general gunk. The frame looks pretty tough and the paint has held up really well. Your going to take off ~2 lbs just buy going from steel to alum. The drop outs are also spread out well to prevent build up between the wheel and the frame even though they are 130 drop instead of 135. I really wanted something with 130 since I can hand down wheels from road bikes.
Personally I don’t think you can beat the price with a stick for a good solid Cyclocross frame aside from perhaps a Surly, but apple and oranges IMO according to what you like.