I’m riding a road bike.
I probably average a cadence of 85.
I have to buy a new bottom bracket. My current one finally died after crashing on it a while ago.
I’m currently riding FSA Gossamer MegaExo double cranks, 53-34, with a 12-25 (9spd) cassette, 105 front der.
I’m planning some rides that tackle some big (big for me) hills. I’ve been training on them and I mash up in my lowest gear. These climbs are generally short and steep, about 3/4 of a mile and peak around 20%. Most of my riding is on rolling hills, solo or a small group.
Since I have to get a new BB I’m wondering if I should shell out the extra cash for a new compact crank set. I don’t think I’ll really mind losing the top gear of compacts. The only time I’m in my 12-tooth cog is on a downhill, and then I’m usually coasting.
If I just get the bottom bracket now, can I throw on FSA Gossamer compacts later, or will those require a different bottom bracket as well?
If you think I would benefit from compacts, do you have a recommendation? I think my budget is going to be south of $200 for the set, so nothing too fancy please.
I was super close to picking up the new bottom bracket today when I considered getting compacts, but thought I’d ask the hive mind before I plopped down the dough.
I just got this 9sp compact
very nice with all parts $150 total
Dirt
New! Shimano R4550 50-34t Compact Cranksets $89.95 These excellent cranks use Shimano’s outboard bearing technology.
If you currently have a Shimano Dura-Ace, Ultegra or 105 “10-speed” double crankset, this crankset will directly replace it with no need to change any other parts! If you are replacing a traditional “three piece” crank, you’ll also need a pair of outboard bearing assemblies. ShimanoR4550 Compact Double 165 mm 34/50 teethCK7715$89.95 Shimano R4550 Compact Double 1705 mm 34/50 teethCK7716$89.95 Shimano R4550 Compact Double 175 mm 34/50 teethCK7717$89.95 from sheldonbrown.com
I am assuming you mean that you have a 53/39…not a 53/34 as you posted, as this would cause some significant problems for your front der. On one of my road bikes I have a compact Nashbar 50/34 crankset, it works great. I bought it initially because I was having a hard time on the tougher hills…As I have raced more and trained more on the bike, it has become less of a necessity and I find myself on anything under 10% staying in the 50. But that’s my experience, and the 34 can be really handy on tougher climbs.
When you compare a 52/39 crankset and a 50/34…you only really lose one gear. Assuming you are running a 12-25 cassette, the 50/12 will be equivalent to a 52/13. You really only lose your top gear. The only other problems are sometimes a tougher FD shift (16 tooth, instead of 13) and I’ve found the FSA compact FD works pretty well, although almost any other FD will do it. Also, there is more crossover in gearing on the rear…in other words when you shift the front either up or down, you sometimes have to shift 3-4 gears in the back to find the right one. I like them, and that bike is one of my faves to ride. We have a couple of nasty climbs around here that it is helpful to ride on.
I was probably one of the first ST’ers to go to compacts several years ago now. Never regreted it. I run 50/36 with Q rings and 12/25 cassette. Just did the group hill ride tonight and I was right up at the front with the young strong guys on their 53/39. I wouldn’t have been there with them if i was on the bigger cranks.
So…I think I’ll buy the Shimano compacts that Cheyou linked, along with the Ultegra outboard BB, unless anyone has a better idea. The total package for about $150 sounds pretty nice.
There’s very little price difference between the Ultegra BB and the Dura Ace BB, but Sheldon Brown’s site says it’s “For use with FC-7800 cranks only”. Bummer. So it’ll be Ultegra for me.
Actually, I need a new cassette and chain while I’m at it. Mine have about 3,800 miles or so on them…it’s time.
" Ultegra outboard BB, unless anyone has a better idea."
If you really want to get fancy and get that extra miniscule % of extra performance go on ebay and check out some of the ceramic bearing outboard BB’s. They are selling $100-150. I’m just updating my BB to a ceramic bearing.
You didn’t really say anything about your fitness level, so it’s really tough to know whether you’d benefit from a compact set-up…
But, it sounds like you want them, so go for it! $89 is a heck of a deal on those Shimano cranks…assuming you get the proper length. Otherwise, the Gossamer MegaExo is a REALLY nice compact crank (I ride that on my CX bike at 46/36).
Although, I personally haven’t done the tickering to find out, it appears that FSA and Shimano external road BB are swappable w/o too much tolerance problems. Initially there were reports of trouble, but I haven’t heard any lately.
As Cevelo mentions, you might want to look into a ceramic BB. IMO, it’s worth MUCH more value than “upgrading” from the Gossamer crank in the FSA line (as it is already lighter than the K Force carbon crank).
Thanks. I’d love the ceramic BB, but that’s a little too pricey for me right now. Still, it’s sweet.
Fitness level? Well, when I’m putting out max power sometimes I look down and I can see my bottom bracket shell starting to glow. I think ceramic bearings would definitely help with all the heat that I’m capable of generating.
Right now I’m finding great prices at bikeman.com. Has anyone used them before? I’m looking at around $220 for cranks, BB, chain, and 12-26 cassette (SRAM).
You’re now going from a standard w/12-25 to a compact AND another tooth on the back? Have you looked at the run out? It may be the right ticket…or it may not, I certainly don’t know. It’s worth checking out.
Also, if I were you…and of course I’m not.
I’d eBay a soup’d up ceramic BB for $100. The Gossamer is very low cost and you could probably turn around and sell the standard BB! Keep you old cassette.
Actually, you’ll have to. SRAM is 10 spd unless you’re buying a MTB cassette.
Just in case you’re concerned about losing your top end, SRAM makes an 11-26 cassette. You can go with a 50/36 up front and still get a great high and low range.
50/11 = 122.7---------------11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23 (tighter grouping of gears)
36/23 = 42.3
34/21 = 43.7----------------11-12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21 (good high and low with tight gear jumps)
34/23 = 39.9 ---------------12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23 (same grouping as above for clinbing but lower “granny”)
So you can see that from what you’re used to, you’ll get more out of the high gear (50/11) and about the same climbing gear if you go to a 36t.
I would go to a 34t small ring and use two cassettes. one 11-21 and one 11-23. use the 11-23 to get an even BETTER climbing gear than you have now AND a better top speed gear than you have now. Use the 11-21 for normal riding because you get a tighter grouping of gear ranges. I know that using that 9 speed and getting a 16t rear cog was HUGE when using a standard crank. Have yet another cassette that is 12-21 for the best clinbing gears possible. 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21. you only skip the 20t so you’ll really have the best gear for any grade. You can really feel the differance when you pay attention. Given this I would maybe try to make the switch to 10 speed and gain yet ANOTHER climbing gear. CC cranks are great if used properly.
I would make the switch, but make sure you use the proper cassette in order to gain the MOST out of the switch.
I’d love the ceramic but $100 for a BB isn’t feasible right now when a new Ultegra runs $50. I’ve seen aftermarket ceramic cartridge bearings so maybe I’ll throw those in later, and they’re not that expensive.
SRAM makes a 9-spd 12-26 cassette. I’m running 12-25 right now, so I think spinning the 34/26 will be nice on the steep hills I’m riding. I’m getting to the top of these hills in the saddle, but right now my cadence is low low low on them, and I’d like to spin more and mash less on the hills.
I like the idea of two cassettes. I might get an 11-21, 12-21, or 12-23 later when money permits. Right now my BB is d-e-a-d, so I unfortunately don’t have time to wait for a deal on eBay.
Thanks to everyone so far. You’ve given me a lot to think about, and I really appreciate the feedback. SlowTwitch is blocked at work (fuck!) as of last month, so I’ll be checking back tonight.
if your cadence is in the 80s, and you plan to keep it there, you should think about a 50-36 instead of a 50-34.
i switched to a 50-36 this spring, and i’m really glad i did. before doing that, i used sheldon brown’s gear inch calculator and figured out what gear ratios i used the most, and saw how they fit with different configurations. that helped me figure out what worked for me.
yes, there’s times i want to go to that ‘one gear lower’ but that’s when i just think htfu and start going harder! but i really think that that 50-34 is for riders who really keep their cadence up higher. meanwhile, i get decent use out of the lower gears.
If you think the Compact Cranks will benefit you, I say do it.
I was having the same dilemma about a year ago maybe longer. I saw Devashish Paul and some other folks arguing for and against compact cranks. They made the decision to race to see what is the better crank. It was a half iron distance. They all had similar talent. There were a few for the compact cranks and one guy against and he badmouthed them pretty good not believing they could be as fast as a normal 53/39 crank.
All the compact cranks had a faster bike split and they all were able to keep the guy at bay on the run as well.
I switched and the tighter gearing has allowed me to go up that one more gear to go that much faster.
But I agree with the last poster to first use Sheldon Brown’s gearing calculator to see what gears you use most and make sure that is where the gearing is tighter.
Shimano R4550 Compact Double 1705 mm 34/50 teethCK7716$89.95